Semi-Bespoke No. 25

When I first applied this, I thought immediately of sending it back. One of the notes - maybe the cypriol or the birch tar was mixing badly on my skin with the sweeter notes, especially the jasmine. But I gave it a second, and I was glad I did, because this is absolutely divine! The strange "sharp/bitter" note on me settles in about 3 seconds and what remains is JASMINE, MANDARIN ORANGE, and ALDEHYDES writ large. As the reviewer said below, this is a glass of sweet and sparkling orange soda, if that glass of soda were next to an enormous bouquet of jasmine blossoms. These three notes dominate the opening and middle stages of the scent. There's also plenty of vanilla and ylang ylang, which tends to pair nicely with jasmine and tones down the fecal just a bit. The bitter-woody birch tar/oud/cypriol is still in the background to keep it from being too frilly, but for the first hour they are only minor notes. This is the sparkling jasmine-orange show. As the scent progresses, the orange and jasmine calm down a bit and the amber, woods, and other resins begin to assert themselves, alongside musk and cinnamon/cloves. But while the profile gets woodier and spicier, the overall impression stays that of a sweet and floral scent, sophisticated and addictive. I keep smelling myself, I'm so into this. Sillage and potency are monster level. People will wonder what you are wearing, even if they are across the room. It's too bad they are discontinuing it as I would 100% buy this again.

Semi-bespoke #25: Jasmine Leather Ambree The mandarin/aldehyde opeing is exactly like when I open a can of mandarin flavored spakling water. So fresh and bright. Right after, the sweet orange blossom, rose de mai, and rich jasmine take over. The Jasmine sambac gives the bouquet some distinct tea note. Green apple and heliotrope keep the whole composition from turning overly floral and sugary by providing some tartness and tannic chewiness. With eyes closed, I can imagine I am drinking some exotic Asian Jasmine green tea in the shade of a green apple tree in a white flower garden. It's magical. Very slowly, the base of saffron, gentle oud, and soft suede joins the show. Very majestic and luxury. It reminds me of: nothing. Very unique. Might be a lighter/fresher version of PdV1. Projection: 3/5 Longevity: 5/5

Semi Bespoke 25 is a ridiculously busy and complicated scent, there are so many things going on at once it’s hard to put into words - and yet it’s done with so much flair and elegance. Wearing this feels like a battle between two completely different scent profiles, this is a perfume which wears you, and if you don’t have the confidence to match, it will consume you. I’m getting a LOT of cypriol, which has prominent apple-y, oud-y facets (likely what has been used to create the oud accord). This is sweetened up significantly by way of huge amounts of tuberose, saffron and an apple accord, alongside jasmine and orange blossom to brighten things up. This is a very complicated scent profile with so many elements to talk about, it would be overwhelming to try and analyse all of them. I really enjoy it. It’s not my favourite Semi Bespoke, but it’s definitely among the more interesting and creative offerings. Despite my enjoyment of this oily, dirty, fruity oud-floral, there’s no way I’m paying £750; even if it is discontinued now.

The mandarin and orange blossom along w the aldehydes give this a sparkling start. Roja’s use of aldehydes is the best in the biz. Never lets it overtake the scent which is easy to do. It sits on a bouquet of florals but jasmine is the star all on top of a very gentle, non fecal oud, saffron, and super soft suede. The scent as a whole is smooth and effortless. It reminds me of PdV1 in a way that if PdV1 was a night scent, this would be its day counterpart. Pricey yes but as w most of his line it screams quality. 8/10 w good performance and easily an all season grab. * PdV1 = Pierre de Velay 1