Enlevement au Serail

While I think Francis Kurkdjian is one of the most overhyped noses today, I am grateful he left us some truly amazing perfumes before he tasted commercial success with Baccarat Rouge. Back when he was still loyal to the creative endeavor and less to how well sales did. He definitely has lots of talent and potential. I only wish that he’d be doing more work under others’ creative guidance (Oh Malle, where art thou?). Enlèvement au Sérail is one such accomplished perfume, at least to my nose. Created under Claude Marchal’s creative guidance for MDCI Parfums back in 2006. I can’t see Francis releasing something like this on his own accord. It took me years to track down this perfume, which was discontinued around 2013, when IFRA imposed severe regulations. At that time, Claude Marchal and Kurkdijan worked to reformulate it accordingly and make it compliant. Ultimately, none of the attempts satisfied the creative director; thus, the decision to discontinue the perfume was taken. The perfume can be classified as a Floral-Oriental, with a vague chypre-like vibe, although I never quite got a true chypre quality from it. To me, it feels like a modern take on Rochas’ Femme. Not as spicy and fruity, more delicate and smooth, without the smoky leather. I still perceive a faint fruity quality and an Oriental floral bouquet resting on a woody base, most notably sandalwood. There is a powdery, velvety-like texture resembling vintage perfumes (Oriental Chypres), but ultimately lacks that easily recognizable oakmoss signature. If it was employed in the formula, it was not meant to be a main player. The sandalwood in the base dominates: spicy, sweet, with a nice dusty quality, blending well with the exotic florals. Another classic perfume that might come to mind is Guerlain’s Samsara. Undoubtedly vintage, Oriental, and passionate, it does justice to the play that inspired it, "Die Entführung aus dem Serail" by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. In 2023, Claude Marchal surprised me by disclosing that Enlèvement au Sérail is back after a decade-long absence. I could not believe it. First, I was doubtful that he’d resurrect such a fragrance in an era where people lost their taste for such scents. However, I reminded myself that Claude was never focused on sales, and that if he wanted to release a perfume, he’d do it out of passion. Second, I was skeptical whether the new version would closely resemble the original. Not because of the formula constraints. Since 2013, perfumery has come a long way, and there are many ways now to bypass IFRA regulations and even use oakmoss and other regulated materials. I was uncertain whether Claude and Kurkdijan (who created the new version) would remain faithful to the original idea behind Enlèvement au Sérail, one that most likely won't reach a large audience today. With much trepidation, I sprayed the 2023 version at Jovoy’s, expecting the worst and receiving the best news. It was as I remembered it, Enlèvement au Sérail. And I am inclined to credit this successful resurrection to Claude, rather than to Kurkdijan, who likes to overdo it when it comes to “modernizing” a scent (look what he is doing with poor Dior). Since then, I have collected several mini splash bottles of the new version, and I think it is very true to the original. I might even prefer it slightly over the old one, with Jasmine now the most prominent floral note (as opposed to Tuberose), the dirty aspects amped up by the addition of indoles, and the slight shift in texture, which now feels more dusty than creamy. I admit, I was skeptical it would return in its former glory, but I am glad to be proven wrong. Enlèvement is certainly the most vintage-feeling perfume in the MDCI line, and while it might not appeal to the average perfume enthusiast nowadays, I’m certain it will find much love and appreciation in select circles. IG:@memory.of.scents

Oh, this is so lovely. A really beautiful, classy and timelessly elegant fragrance. To me, this opens with heady peach and floral notes which seem to become bolder rather than lighter. It reminds me slightly of two other fragrances - Miss Dior Cherie - but Enlevement is far more vibrant with much greater potency, and Robert Piguet's Fracas. However, whereas Fracas is a very heavy tuberose, the tuberose in Enlevement is sufficient to lend a floral creaminess which is never overpowering but unmistakably present. It is gently sweet in an exotic and fruity way - the sweetness is mellow and refined. Later, I get a whiff of powdery rose which I simply love (I have a weakness for powdery fragrances such as LV's Teint de Neige). I could see a serenely beautiful woman adorning herself with this on her wedding day (maybe like Audrey Hepburn in Funny Face when Fred Astaire finds her in the little church garden).....Ahhh, pure elegance in a bottle....

Enlevement au Serail is a stunning floral, one which really celebrates feminine beauty in its most gentle and delicate form. Serail is French for Seraglio, which is a term used for the women’s quarters in an Ottoman palace - a strange yet fitting environment to picture yourself in when smelling this. Jasmine is the star here - and whilst perhaps not the best jasmine I’ve ever smelled, it’s certainly one of the most realistic; it smells like a juvenile blossom which has just made its debut into the morning sun. This is surrounded by bouquets of tuberose and ylang, which provides a gentle creamy facet alongside soft woods and patchouli. If you love florals, especially jasmine, then this is really one to make sure you don’t skip. It flies under the radar amongst MDCI’s bigger offerings, but it’s not less beautiful. The only downside is the longevity, but considering the composition you can’t really complain about it.

A fantastic, rich and classic queen-like oriental flower filled with loads of high quality ylang ylang and jasmine. This smells very heavy, so apply with caution as a little bit goes a long way. It started with loads of buttery ylang ylang and soon was joined by a beautiful jasmine which here is top quality and extremely well blend in the composition. The scent itself balances on being warm and buttery to being cold and distant as vetiver and rose on me gives this rather cold and green vibe now and then. Actually quality wise this reminds me a bit of perfumes by Amouage, the richness of "Enlevement au Serail" is surely something that one must be amazed about. If you love big orientals, if you love classic power fragrances do try this. This is a wonderful beauty.

This is a beautiful experience in creamy floral expression. When I first sampled this I knew I had to own it. A dear fragrance friend had sent me a sample as I had been on the hunt for animalic and I immediately fell head over heels. Intoxicating is a word that comes to mind. I don't find myself able to pull apart the individual notes as they are expertly blended. I spent quite lot of time tracking down a large decant. By the time I discovered it, it had already been discontinued. How disappointing! But here is a twist, I later tried a vintage PDT of Rochas Femme and found a huge similarity. Of course, there is a sharper edge to RF due to the Oakmoss and Patchouli but if you can't find EAS, the floral part of RF is remarkably similar.