Amber

[Amber] ⚫️⚫️⚫️⚫️⚫️ (This review is identical to the one I left on the now discontinued version of Amber but everything I’ve said is still relevant and applies to this current edition which is readily available on Rook’s website.) I am already very familiar with Nadeem’s work as I write this. I’ve tried almost everything from his range (excluding forest and undergrowth) and I own several bottles. I have to say I’m bowled over by almost every release. Although Rook is a niche house from the UK, Nadeem draws from his Jordanian heritage to create very exciting perfume. Amber was the one fragrance I was most keen to try when picking up few samples year or two ago, as I enjoyed the genre at an earlier point in my fragrance journey. As soon as I sprayed Amber on my forearm I was completely blown away. I was overwhelmed as it wasn’t at all how I envisioned. What I was anticipating when compared to the fragrance I received caught me completely off guard and it was very exciting. Amber opens with a fire, woodsmoke and masses of saffron which initially could be perceived as rich, stewed fruit or a syrupy cognac. The fragrance is a beastly smoke and suede animal with saffron steering the fragrance away from being too dense and heavy. As unruly as it sounds it’s very well disciplined in its execution. The smoke never gets too overwhelming and the fragrance is rough without feeling incomplete or unfinished. In order to pick this fragrance apart, you’d have to study it for days on end as the blend is superb. Nothing feels out of place. Everything meshes together beautifully to make a cohesive interpretation of amber. Nadeem didn’t fall victim to the narrow road that is the typical vanillin, labdanum and patchouli blend. Rook’s Amber does away with the traditional amber tropes and makes you completely reconsider the genre. His interpretation focuses on his perception of fossilised tree resin and not the note the industry is familiar with. This is a much welcomed approach and Rook’s interpretation proudly sits as my benchmark amber due to this innovative perspective. With Rook’s Amber I picture gathering around a bonfire amongst friends and family. Where the humidity of the day subsides and the primary source of heat becomes the captivating amber dance taking centre stage. Hot embers drift across the evening sky without a destination in mind and the fire cracks and snaps with energy. A scene of warmth, whimsy and the smell of smoke that hugs your jacket. This fragrance came into my life at a time when I was reflecting on who I was and the person I wanted to be. When at my most conscious of how people understood me. It was this growing awareness of my identity that led me to Rook Perfumes. All that I am cannot be projected through a generic high street fragrance when there’s so much more to say. We are all a kaleidoscope of emotions, habits and interests that cannot be expressed through a single perfume, let alone one that has been focus-grouped to appeal to the masses. Nadeem’s fragrances resonate with me. They make me emotional in a way that a beautiful song makes you feel when you’re sat alone in a dark room, putting life on pause for a brief moment. Whenever you press your nose against your fragrant skin, sounds become muted and busy thoughts leave your head as you slowly slip into the story unfolding on your skin.

Tried my Amber sample right before bed and was kept awake for an hour bc of this gorgeous scent...I didn't want to fall asleep I just wanted to revel in it's beauty. This fragrance smells like a vision of a strong beautiful horse rolling around in a clover field at dusk. It's not terribly animalic, still that's the visual that comes to mind! It has a strong but soft smell, like nuzzling into a gentle hug from someone much bigger than you. It's incredibly sexy,,,, I'd love to date someone who smelled like this! I plan on buying it for myself as well, but it's just one of those scents you would love to associate with a lover. It has power without being overpowering. I am honestly *very* confused by some of the feedback from other reviewers on Amber, I do not smell 'heavy smoke', I do not smell 'old perfume'. Maybe I just have the right skin for it, maybe y'all need to let your testers macerate? I think its perfect and I wouldn't change a single thing about this fragrance. 10/10.

Wow, what an interesting and beautiful fragrance. There’s something ethereal about it, the way the smoke has this fresh and ozonic effect, far from that burnt campfire effect smoke can sometimes have in a fragrance. I love the saffron too. It’s hard to see why it’s called Amber, but that’s fine! Actually, it reminds me a bit of Dervish from La Curie. Both of these have this exhilarating outdoorsy effect.

When you hear amber you expect a cosy scent. But this amber is bracing and fresh. It's the scent of a fire on a cold winters day. When I first tried it, I ordered a full bottle on the spot. I cannot abide the gloomy and depressing English winters, but my fireplace and wearing this scent are the two things I can actually look forward to in the winter months.

This has to be the smoothest smoky perfume I've ever smelled. There's a sort of leathery, suede quality to it - which is probably what, to my nose, gives it some softness

Being a British kid born in 2000, this scent conjures up memories that I almost completely forgot about. To me, this smells EXACTLY like the inside of the former discount store, "Shoe Zone". That smell of cheap leather school shoes, the smell of the carpet... It all got stuck in my mind and this fragrance just takes me back to that place in time. It makes me feel even more nostalgic than it should, as Shoe Zone has gone bust a good few years ago now. Enough rambling, what does it actually smell like? Amber, amber, amber, amber amber. What more do you wanna know? This fragrance is very ambery with a metric fuckton of resins. The saffron helps add a slight leathery tone to the amber, and the tonka sweetens up the opening. Longevity is half-decent at about 3-4 hours with a heavy 2ft projection for 1-2 hours. This is an autumn/winter fragrance. I've been wearing it in late spring so it's definitely not the right weather for it. I'll re-evaluate the fragrance in winter. Total score: 7/10. Not versatile, lacking performance. I would probably only rate it 5/10 if it weren't for the nostalgia. Despite this, I would still consider buying myself a bottle of it. The fragrance itself is just sublime.

From other reviews this seemed to be a love it or hate it, however I fit into neither. I land closer to love it, and maybe I will come to love it in time, but for now I like it enough. This perfume is just a bit of a tease. It’s to my nose a bit faint and distant, sort of like you’re smelling a rich resinous incense being burned by the house next door. When you get the wafts of the perfume it’s wonderful, but they are fleeting and distant at times. I found myself just wanting more. I’d reapply throughout the day, not because it had gone away completely, but because I wanted that more forceful start once again. I don’t pretend to know the complexities of perfumery, but I wish this had just a touch more oomph. It’s got the right stuff I just want a bit more of it.

This is the Rook for me. Like all the range, it's not for the faint of heart; the top notes take a moment to get used to, but it is an elegant self assured perfume that isn't trying to endlessly make a person smell like a place (nothing wrong with olfactory art, but sometimes I just want a perfume to reflect/enhance my look, with no need to smell like a fireplace/ library) Of all the testers this is the one that draws me back, smoke thankfully muted, rich without being thick, base and middle notes beautifully worked. This to me is not outdoorsy or fresh; it is a drawing room scent, even a board room scent, refined but unforgettable. If I am going to spend my money on Rook at all, this is the one.

I personally love this perfume. It's not a safe blind but as you need to like smoke as a note, as this is quite smokey, especially in the opening. It's a darker, warm and heavier scent. Once it dries down the smoke remains but the sweetness of the tonka, the spiciness of the saffron and the earthy/woodiness of the amber comes through. Lasts a good while too. Great perfume for the colder months - if you like smokey scents!

I layered this fragrance with Roja Dove Parfum, resulting in an excellent blend. The combination produced a smoky, ambery scent with good longevity and projection.

Smokey amber incense. Meditative. I like it.

A single spray and all I could smell was a woodsmoke so intense I could taste it. It almost smelled like a Sharpie marker - harsh and chemical. Maybe a slight hint of saffron. Maybe. I couldn't really tell with all the smoke. Once it dries down for half an hour or so, though, it's not offensive and I think I may even enjoy it? It's masculine leaning, exactly like the smoke from a bonfire. Very strong and long-lasting. It's nice, but I don't think I'd ever be able to get over the harsh opening.

Looks like most people are "blown away" by this because it's called Amber but is actually a smoky leather fragrance. Rough and angular like most of his other creations, lacking finesse and complexity in my personal opinion. Beaufort have a very similar approach, lots of bombastic smoke but not much meat to keep one satisfied. Make sure to sample first.

I'm feeling a little bit crazy writing this, but I get no smoke and no leather. To me it smells like an old-fashioned ladies perfume from the 80es or earlier, kind of heavy and stuffy. I'm also reminded of how shampoos and soaps used to smell in the late 80es/90es.

Smells really smoky, burned leather. Almost all perfumes of this house smell alike : heavy smoky, ambery/leathery...I dont like it.

The absolute worst of the Rook discovery set. The tonka bean notes are thick and heavy, and has a bit of a meringue vibe to it. There is nothing here to compliment just how heavy this is. The smokiness gives an almost rubbery vibe, so it basically comes across like rubbery meringue. It's very linear, so if you're disappointed in the opening then don't expect it to get better. There are so many good tonka-based fragrances out there, but this is absolutely not one of them.

I've tried and enjoyed nearly every rook fragrance. They all have character and style while still being pleasant. But this smells flat out offensive. Like burnt rubber mixed with old 80s perfume that has been decaying in an old people's home. If a retirement home all rented old sports cars and did burnouts, this is what it would smell like

I got the sample set. That's important, as out of all the samples I've reviewed Rook itself and liked it a lot so that I bought a bottle. However on me Amber is the one of the 6 that didn't suit me. I got burnt rubber. Longevity is good though. But if this one works on you then you have one hell of an unusual scent.

This is an absolute gem from start to finish. Perfect fragrance for men and women for the winter months. I’ve been wearing my sample and I’m definitely going to be purchasing a full bottle very soon. Starts off with an in-your-face burst of smoke and woodsy notes. Like burning wood, reminiscent of a campfire. Then it settles and in comes the cozy vanillic dry-down. Marshmallows roasting over an open fire is the picture that I get. Very well-crafted fragrance. Performance, silage, and longevity are all fantastic here. Don’t overdo it on the sprays. One or two max is good for this one. I’d say this leans slightly masculine but it is very unisex. As a woman, I’ll definitely be pulling this out a lot this winter.

I ordered a sample set and thought they were ok, strong, value for money but a bit OTT for me. I gave them to my daughter and on her skin they are AMAZING, especially Amber which is absolutely adorable. I could not believe it, it’s like a beautiful soft, sweet violet marshmallow in the snow! (Why snow? I don’t know but maybe it’s that luscious soft, spiciness that evokes snowy winter days) She’s 27 and has completely different skin to me and we’ve noticed over the years that everything is different on her. She can wear vintage Mitsouko (was mine!) and it smells gorgeous whereas on me, it’s old lady stale......gasp!! Anyway all the rook are fabulous......but not for me :-)))

Wow, I seem to be alone in this, but this is my ABSOLUTE favorite from the Discovery Set (enough that I'm getting a decant now and maybe a full bottle if I'm still enamored in a few months). It does start off smoky and a little harsh--though not woodsmoke; more like charcoal and incense. The saffron note is strong, and then the resins swoop in. Amber/copal, some elemi maybe. It definitely leans masculine, and it is UNUSUAL for sure, but every time I wear it I can't stop sniffing my wrists.

i apologize to the people who like this perfume but i had the opposite experience i purchased a sample of this and all i smelled was melted rubber & heavy synthetic leather i actually thought i was being punked because it smells nothing like a traditional amber at least give people a heads up if it's supposed to be avant garde

I have this one but I don’t like it. I have several from this house I love but this one is way too smoky for me. The amber formulation used is not to my taste either. Love this house but this particular frag isn’t for me.

Official notes are following: Top: Persian saffron, smoke Middle: Somali incense, rare amber, maple Base: Black musk, tonka South America, benzoin and resins