Ariel

Ariel from Sammarco is dedicated to one of the perfumer's better inspirations, and she must remain a mystery. I can only imagine what an intricate and enigmatic personality she must have been, as the perfume itself. Giovanni described Ariel as a green-floral-poudre, but I see it as a green-woody-poudre. As for the "poudre" part, it feels rather chalky, dry, and dusty. It doesn't smell like your typical/traditional powdery scent. The way the powderiness feels here brings to mind Iris Silver Mist with its chalky and dusty Iris. Ariel is also very woody, the sandalwood playing a major role in adding to the spicy and green (in an earthy and rooty way, not a fresh or crisp green) facets. I find it difficult to review Ariel, given its complexity and uniqueness. I also noticed through sampling over the years that more recent iterations feel more floral and fruity, even sweeter than the one I am reviewing. When I first tried Ariel years ago, I was stunned by it. The opening of this perfume is spectacular, and that hasn't changed over the years. I attribute it to the heavy use of angelica, the third major player after the sandalwood and the orris. It opens up dry and musky, bitter-green, and earthy. Couple that with an equally dusty and chalky orris and rich sandalwood, and the result is something that I'd describe as the smell of "old book's pages." That is exactly how I perceive Ariel, especially during the opening stage and the heart. It is an unmistakable smell. Like opening the book and burying your nose in it. Dry, moldy, woody, dusty, and slightly sharp-acidic. I love that smell as it makes me think of the decades those written words on the paper had faced. Ariel is that smell. The heart reveals more of the orris and the sandalwood, with the latter dominating the dry-down. It renders a milky, spicy, and slightly sweet flavor to the perfume, somehow mellowing its aloofness. Yes, I find Ariel rather cold and stern. Besides the major players (angelica, orris, and sandalwood), other minor contributors play their part but never come center stage. The osmanthus adds some fruity facets, the davana with the tobacco some wet-green-leafy (musty) ones, and the violet and the rose a bit of vibrant floracy. Overall, to me, it smells like a bone-dry woody-earthy-spicy perfume. If you'd tell me this is a deep vintage Guerlain, I would believe you. That is how rich and well-put-together Ariel smells. If you can picture a vintage Vol De Nuit meets L'Heure Bleu, add some Iris Silver mist to the mix, and top everything with loads of genuine sandalwood, you'll get a solid picture of Ariel. That, or you find an old book in your library or the closest Apothecary and bury your nose in it. It is a remarkable work of art. All offerings from the house are worthwhile, but Ariel is the most compelling. Vintage and modern, never quite the same, and a treat for lovers of orris, sandalwood, and that vintage "Guerlinade" minus the hefty vanilla. IG:@memory.of.scents

The spiritual idea of a woman seems to have a complex blend of notes. You have a weird and odd opening for sure, you realise the perfume's complexity from the first spray, and notes develop fast. Initially I get lots of rose and artemisia. A herbal rose and a pencil shavings opening. Perfumey and grown up, adult scent. Unlike any other I have smelled in modern perfumery. Tobacco might turn Ariel heavy for some, it's a bit headache-y. The woody base has stabilized for good, so mind that Ariel is primarily a deep woody perfume. Intense and unapologetic. But I don't see the florals as much, maybe iris, but not as much tuberose. Some heaps of davana, a good amount of angelica, green and herbal. Unusual, thick, rich, woody drydown. Boozy, woody, woody, boozy, very sensual in my opinion. Definitely niche. Despite the difficult opening it's worthy of waiting the drydown. Sometimes it gives off the smell of library, of the wooden shelves, in the best way possible of course. Before it becomes a skin-scent florals shine through, but you might not even detect them Overall, it stayed rather close to the skin and lasted at around five hours. The fifth hour there was no trace of perfume around me whatsoever. Edit: and now that i've tested L'Heure Bleue I can agree that it falls way too close. If you have the one you don't need the other. Edit: the more I wear it the more I like it

From the notes I expected Ariel to be my least favorite in the Sammarco's range but it comes out I was wrong. Another extremely good fragrance and probably the most complex out of the four from this line. The opining is a juicy citrusy-fruity thing pervaded by a sweet tobacco note. It quickly moves into a magnificent floral middle phase in which smooth white florals are paired to rose. There's also a soft powderiness going on, probably provided by the orris / violet combo, but nothing to worry about for me. Again, the overall quality is honestly undeniable and while I'm generally not drawn to these kind of fragrances, there's something so nailed about Ariel that makes of it something noteworthy. It's a familiar, classic accord that, at the same time, doesn't rely on nostalgia or old-fashioned themes. The white florals are plush and devoided of any angular facets but they still feel rough and visceral as opposed to overly polished and prettified. The base breaks in pretty soon unveiling a sweet-n-dry sandalwood that I find completely intoxicating. Ariel strikes as an ageless fragrance, something that doesn't follow any trend or style, something that goes beyond genres while maintaining a relevant perfumey allure throughout. In this context, it's quintessentially perfumey and kind of a textbook-type woody-floral. My only complain about Ariel is that it gets pretty calm a bit too soon. Projection is really moderate after the initial phase even if longevity is decent, especially considering it's apparently an all-natural composition. With that said, I still find Ariel completely noteworthy and, composition-wise, probably my favorite in the whole range. Note: It does miracles on fabric. Rating: 8/10

It opens juicy, oriental and fruity and animalic which initially seems like an... oud. Then it gradually unfolds with ginger, rose, angelica, a beautiful wild forest violet supporting a distinct creamy lipstick iris. I don't get a lot of tuberose but mostly a thick, juicy osmanthus with wet tobacco and jasmine. Overall it is a little chaotic but genuine, and when the fruitiness dries out, the sandalwood emerges and becomes a dusty, purple and oriental woody floral, old school, classic, pleasant, with a strong impact as with all the house's offerings.

This doesn't work for me at all. I'm not sure what gives the opening the sharp yet sweet/sickly feel, probably artemisia, angelica and violet leaf, combined with mandarin, though I think it's just a weird blend where the notes as a whole work weirdly together. I find it somehow incoherent, after half an hour it's more bearable and pleasant - more woody, but this is when it starts to get sweeter. At this slightly more pleasant stage it has something in common with Aroma M's Vanilla Hinoki, though find Vanilla Hinoki a far, far more lovely perfume After a few hours it's just really sweet, like sticky half-melted toffee even. Gourmand lovers will enjoy the far drydown, lovers of odd perfumes will enjoy the beginning more. I don't find it very green, I like green perfumes and associate them with nature and the outdoors, this doesn't take me somewhere outdoorsy though. Very odd - try it out if you enjoy odd perfumes!