Colonia Russa

Santa Maria Novella Colonia Russa, or simply Russa, is one of the house’s many colognes and probably the example that I liked most when visiting the house’s downtown Manhattan boutique several years ago. Russa is a well-executed, fresh, semi-citric, semi-herbal blend that is agreeable and accessible yet has some intrigue. Its note listing consists of some expected fresh/citrus players (bergamot, bitter orange, lemon, neroli, petitgrain, verbena), but also rose, lavender, and rosemary, with a dry down to clove, castoreum, civet, benzoin, and tolu balsam. I find the civet and castoreum to be surprising, since the mix is not particularly animalic and what I get out of it that is most interesting is the thread of clove, petitgrain, lavender, rose, and rosemary that gives the mix a bit of intrigue. Still, it does not come off especially animalic, leathery, funky, barnyard-like, etc. to me so I suspect that these pieces are very minimal in terms of the construction of the fragrance. Unlike Sicilia, which favors the rosemary, Russa leans more so on the clove, mixed with the florals and citruses, and the sort of quirky spicy effect it has on an otherwise more mainstream garden of fresh elements. The blend feels carefully-executed and is very satisfying, perhaps ever so slightly masculine leaning but really quite unisex in the way that most aquatic, fresh, Eau de Cologne types are. It’s easy enjoyable, not unfamiliar to fans of designers but intriguing enough for those who adhere to niche offerings. Performance-wise, Russa is not as strong as Sicilia. It’s lighter and fresher, albeit similarly warm-weather-friendly, apt for a summer day, especially. Its pricing is similar to much of the line, however, at $125 for 100ml, so it leans toward being a fragrance that one needs to love to buy, as an EDC with moderate performance is a tough sell at $1/ml, sometimes, even. Overall, I’m impressed, though Russa demands some more tries from me, certainly preferably out of a spray of some kind rather than a dabber sample, but it remains a recommended try for others looking to explore the house, as it’s an easy winner. 8 out of 10

I got this for my husband as a gift and while it took a few tries to truly appreciate, now that I've had some time with it, I don't think he can ever be without Colonia Russa. The opening is a blast of citrus with enormous sillage, but it evolves into something more herbal and comforting that sits closer to the skin rather quickly. The base is incredibly masculine but does not smell animalic despite the castoreum and civet notes. I kept inhaling the skin around my husband's neck trying to parse out the different scents but all I can say is he smells AMAZINGLY MANLY (think eyes rolling into the back of your head!) but also clean and fresh. He loves it even more than I do and that's saying something.

If you thought Floris and Houbigant had it down think Italia 🇮🇹. As of now I have well over 100 fragrances on rotation and regularly turn to SMN for the decent and sophisticated quality and fragrance profile esp. Colonia Russa has to offer. You can use it after shaving, refreshing your face after demanding meetings or just for the joy it brings with the smooth, spicy and aromatic moods. It’s not a banger and it is rather inoffensive, however distinctly masculine and certainly not mainstream. If you are on the hunt for class... voila 👑

This is “colonia” at its best! It is the base what makes all the difference... as there is also a herbal-hearty complexity to it that makes it so much more noble than most colognes available today. It is amazing how SMN stays true to its formulas (one can only implore at the cathedral beside the shop that such grace endures). LVMH should look at this example while butchering Guerlain’s colognes, while entitling themselves a luxury-group? In this sense of staying true, it is SMN the luxury house...

The citrus top notes along with the mid notes of spice and wood make this a perfect year-round fragrance. Like others by this house it also lasts. It's a classic scent and denotes sophistication. Worth every cent. I gave a bottle to my college buddy for his birthday a few years ago and he brought it to the office to show it off and let his colleagues try it.

... That morning he had the courage to trespass. He walked past the gates with certainty, assuming a role that been denied yet assigned to his name. An impostor? ? Perhaps... Perhaps not, yet that day, everyone on Via del Corso would have sworn he was an heir. He made his way past the courtyard, and into the palazzo. There, upon the cold marble floors, his steps broke the silence. That morning he had chosen to wear those oxfords, it was mere coincidence.The coolness of the palazzo that radiated from the imperial marble had a scent, typical of interiors only known to roman noblemen. The linen curtains flowing in the air was his only welcome his only embrace He walked towards that embrace, and his steps claimed all that belonged to him. As he glanced out the window overlooking the giardini the sun glare enchanted his face. [colonia russa]

You could say this would be a great cologne for people who don't like to smell like fragrance but want to smell like soap. But then, why wouldn't they just use soap, which would be much less expensive (even if you use the nice boutique kind of soap this cologne evokes)? Neroli is pretty dominant here, but the musk and lavender make it very smooth. It's elegant, but for such a cost, the results do not seem worth it.

It opens big, complex, fruity, then changes to a very female touch for my nose, which I associate with very nauseating flowery scent. Then, at the end, it evolves to a Acqua di Parma, Colonia, which is just beautiful. Longevity is a about 3 hours, and sillage quite soft. I would definitely see a woman wearing this than a man.

A very good citrus flowery cologne, vintage but pleasant, I had bought it for my dad, who was a fan of uplifting colognes. He passed away before he could use it - so I took it home. Beautiful bottle, beautiful classic fragrance. Short lasting - like my father's health.

Interesting scent, interesting brand. Very dry, refreshing fragrance that I could confidently wear. However, success seems impossible because the longevity appears to be terrible. I need to check it again; nevertheless, it’s worth exploring the entire brand.

Why does this only last literally five seconds on me!? The initial whiff promises so much, it's heartbreaking...

Compared to how obsessed I am with Angeli di Firenzi and Melograno, this does not do much for me at all. Barely wanted to sniff twice. Probably my least favorite from the house that I've tried so far, just so unremarkable and plain.

I was hemming and hawing about buying this for months, but having been lucky enough to secure a couple of generous samples, I can confidently say I could never wear this, ever. It really does smell of something from a time long since past. I don’t get classic colonia with an ambery or leathery base. I get vintage soaps and talcs, Brunflesia (Yesterday, Today, and Tomorrow flower), and sour fruits. It’s not unlike Melograno, but less like fruit-loops, and more floral. It's truly dated, borderline unpleasant, and I can't imagine this having been enjoyed at any point after 1890. A judgement I've reserved for only ONE other scent - Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet.

I gave it my husband for Christmas, and wow, the gift was really for me ! I tried it once, and was enchanted by all the citrus notes evolving on the skin. For him, it works even better, developing a lavender and later a benzoin touch. It's a light and lovely cologne, garanteed to last at least 4 hours even in hot weather. It remains very close to skin, though. Thumbs up !

I just got it. I was very hesitant between Acqua di Sicilia and this one. I like both but other people seem to find that Acqua di Sicilia has a slight detergent smell at first and it is overall stronger. Acqua di Colonia russa is much softer, soappy at the end. It smells great and clean.

This reminds me of a Caswell Massey bar of soap. It's a classic, spicy, soapy scent that you've probably encountered before. Side notes: Think Sung Homme EDT/Irish Spring soap bar/Caswell Massey soap bar/Prada Amber EDT.

This took me back to being in Italy 20 years ago - maybe it reminds me of the soap there?? I like it!

Lovely and fresh, great for layering on other scents to give them more clean texture.

Very cosy skin scent for winter time. Rosewood note is missing here.