Frangipane

Frangipane is another magnificently peculiar selection from Santa Maria Novella, reflecting the old-world apothecary feel of the house that was founded over 400 years ago. While others claim that the frangipani (plumeria) flower eludes them here, I on the contrary feel it amongst the pronounced herbal balm of thyme and nutmeg, soft candy-pastel beneath the surface, somewhat peachy and creamy. This seems to represent more that of the scented gloves made popular by Marquis de Frangipani: these frangipani gloves were more a melange of plumeria, red jasmine (Jasminum beesianum) and of herbs and spices, fixed with balsams. The result is a swirl of sweet and savory, with facets recalling the more camphoraceous qualities of herbs, the warmth of spices, and the undercurrent of florals. The dry down is wood-smoky and birch-leathery, with suggestions of the sweet florals still murmuring. It's another one from SMN that is transportive, feeling as though one stepped into another time, where there was a more devotional association with the fragrant rather than of vanity or affect. On this warm spring day, it actually rings on my skin, like distant church bells, if that makes any sort of sense.

I love Santa Maria Novella because they keep their classic scents without caring to bring them in the modern world. Not to say at all they are outdated but they are as far from modern mainstream fragrances as they can be. While all the modern scents are one way or another of gourmand sweet and white musky things, SMN is all the opposite: balsamic, spicy, herbal. Frangipane is a perfect example I think. If you have in mind the lush flower or anything sweet or tropical or gourmand, you are as far as you can be. Actually it has nothing to do with frangipane. It is the most herbal, balsamic and spicy fragrance I met, without being “green” in any way. The thyme in the opening is outstanding, concentrated and dry as coming from a crushed fresh bouquet, with some nutmeg and sandalwood. Personally I hardly can find any flowers in there. Beautiful composition, outstanding longevity and projection (it’s sold as an eau de cologne but I really wonder what concentration they really are). I hope their formulas will never change or be diluted. And another one to definitely try : Acqua di Cuba. Tobacco sandalwood and honey that just lasts forever.

I really like this. Frangipane is a strong note but this a calm and herbally fragrance. I was a bit worried that the Peru balsam would be too dominant but thankfully no. I'd say the balsam, frangipane and nutmeg were equal in strength. It is quite a rich scent and a touch earthy so not everyone's thing. It does smell a bit like a medicinal salve. There is also something about it that makes it an olfactory time machine. I can just imagine this creation being developed by the monks. This feels autumnal to me so I will wear it then although it is pretty nice in this warm environment. It doesn't have much sillage on me but it does last a good few hours.

I ADORE this scent. It reminds me so much of the streets of Rome and how they smell. Like cobblestones and rain and spice. Or the pews in old Catholic churches. Wood and incense. Every time I want to feel Italian and glamorous I reach for this fragrance. One of my favorites...

I have an unmarked vintage bottle of dark juice with the foil label. i think it's this because it is NOT the amber or the opoponax, which I have. This goes on spicy, sweet, slightly herbal, soapy, floral and is lovely.