Ambre Sultan

This to me will always be the paragon of ambers. In 2008, I wandered into Barney's in Copley Square Boston and discovered the wide world of high-end and niche fragrance (before I believe "niche" was even really a descriptor) and was struck by their Serge Lutens counter and its display of understated, elegant and somewhat austere bottles. I was really immediately drawn in by the dense and complex scents, otherworldly and enchanting to me at the time. The saleswoman offered me samples of three: Chergui, Arabie, and Ambre Sultan. I was smitten with all three and went on my way, using these small atomizers sparingly so as to relish them. Shortly thereafter, I flirted with fragrance buying, having purchased a handful of others in the next year or two (a couple of which were somewhat regrettable decisions in retrospect: Bond No. 9 Coney Island, yikes). However, curiously enough, I never bought a full bottle of any Serge Lutens. My collection only grew to about may 10 or so bottles at one point and I then started to direct my attention elsewhere. Fast forward about seven years later, and the art of perfume making caught my attention after purchasing a few bottles of essential oil to diffuse. I continued pretty consistently but have never taken to another level, due to fear and anxiety of the sheer dedication and amount of money that must be invested to start a fragrance line and a small business in general (I am feeling more and more confident as of late, stay tuned). This has led, however, to much deeper appreciation for fragrance and scent, studying hundreds of natural materials and aromachems, learning from mentors in the fragrance community, collecting and educating myself through fragrance composition books, studying the history of perfume, and then came 2020. 2020, the year of horror, disbelief, anger, tragedy, and sadness in multitudes: I will leave it at that. What would preoccupy me during all this difficult stuff? Somehow, 2020 was also the year that out of nowhere, I decided, why not buy a few full bottles of some fragrances that I love and appreciate (a few he says, a FEW). I caught the full bottle bug, as it were, and I am just now trying to reign it in—and it hasn't even been a full calendar year! I finally purchased bottles of Chergui, Arabie, and Ambre Sultan, twelve or so years later (and I didn't stop there as far as Serge Lutens is concerned, no doubt). So I sit here, with it sprayed on the interior on my forearm, and I periodically sniff through each stage of its development and big love is still there. That opening is rapturous bliss, warm, sweet and resinous, then in the dry down, the oregano, bay leaf, angelica, and myrtle, these are what sing on my skin in the most wonderfully peculiar manner; ahhhh...this is what got me hooked, this left field of herbal melange with animalic undertones. Then it dries in time to a dry myrrh and somber, dusty labdanum, with an outline of benzoin and vanilla; mythical, even transcendental to my nose. What I've learned in my full bottle journey this year is sometimes you go back "home" to what initiated that spark, what ignites that passion, drives one's desire and is a reminder of what is essential, These are indulgences of what are sensory and sensual, after all. Will I continue to acquire more? Yes, but one most slow down and eventually stop somewhere—it has already surpassed what could be considered practical or even dare I say healthy (I've been a voracious collector at heart since I was single-digit aged). I do think, however, that if I had to stop here, I'd be happy that I finally have a bottle of my Ambre Sultan.

A lot of Serge Lutens perfumes are criticized for essentially being bases sold as complete perfumes. This is completely correct, particularly in the case of Ambre Sultan. However, do not let that lead you to a conclusion that Ambre Sultan, or others, are anything less than stellar. At the time this was released it was far from being a typical amber, but here we are, more than 30 years later, and many perfumers and critics consider it a template amber - the gold standard, the bar for ambers of this century as opposed to the classic ambers of the Shalimar style. The primary reason for this is Ambre Sultan's shocking bitter and dry qualities, and its incredible execution. Firstly, there are green and herbal top notes that are so strikingly dry and aromatic you can almost taste the bitter chlorophyll. But just as soon as you smell it, it is completely gone (part of the argument for this being a base rather than a complete perfume in the classical sense; you could be excused for not noticing the herbs if you don't take a whiff of the perfume immediately after application). What comes next is what you get for the remaining life of the fragrance: the standard balsams, benzoin, vanilla and tonka, patchouli, and incense. People have gone on and on about Ambre Sultan over the years, so I'll keep this next part brief. There are two things, to my nose, that make it special, part of which I've already touched on: the first is the perfect execution. Not near perfect; as far as I can tell, it is perfect. Every single note is singing at the perfect pitch and volume. Their voices sustain the notes in perfect clarity to an even lifespan with each other. It is rich without being cloying, overly dense, or suffocating - managing to present its decadent richness with seductive diffusiveness and breathability. Keeping to the theme presented by the bitter green herbs, the amber notes are equally dry to the point of almost being bitter. For example, the vanilla note as I perceive it is not a baking extract sweetened with sugar, it's more like the bitter and dry oils squeezed directly from the vanilla bean onto my skin. The second reason why it is special to me is the incense note, that gorgeous resinous myrrh smoke that runs throughout every seam and crack of the other amber notes. I get this exact image of cold dry tendrils of silken gray smoke weaving their way through door locks, gently sweeping across a room by the brush of an imperceptible breeze, hovering weightless in the air without any texture as you walk through it. It fills-in the perfume with beautiful smoothness and elegance. Is this my favorite amber? Tricky question since ambers are probably my least favorite genre of perfumes. But yes, I would have to say that it is, in what is the "new classic" style. Ambre Russe by Parfum d'Empire is a lot more interesting, and probably my favorite "new" amber, but it was given permission for existence by Ambre Sultan. Nearly all modern ambers who try to twist this classic genre owe many of their ideas and permissions to Ambre Sultan, and for that reason it's a classic among classics.

II have not met a Amber that i remotely like or love, not that i have encountered many so as to speak. However, there is only one word i can describe when i encountered this Amber.... Love. Ambre Sultan.... This is my very first niche fragrance which i decidedly to finally take the plunge on the very same day that i encounter it. Usually i took quite a while to get the full sized bottle (the usual rite- spray some of it on the wrist and walk around for at least 1 hour and decide if i really like it, then deliberate a little on everything and anything and finally to the cashier), especially when there is no discount going on, so its the full retail price. THIS is dangerous stuff... why? I was window shopping and stumbled upon the Fragrance section which is sort of hidden in the inner part of the Mall and i was actually there to check out the Burberry Makeup collection, it was never my intention to part with my money for anything apart from that. Until, the moment i stepped into the Fragrance section and was drawn to the Serge Lutens Fragrance display whereby i reached out for the bottle with amber gold that struck my eyes...... Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan. The liquid amber. At the first whiff, it hits on me strongly and i was taken aback by the force of the fragrance. It was really potent, nothing that i ever had in my stash or came across. I wasn't put off by it, but rather i was surprised by it and wasn't thinking of purchasing it at all, until i continued with my mission of checking out Burberry's makeup collection. As i continued my shopping, i began to notice the potent thick spicy and maybe a little woody scent began to work its magic on my wrist.....it began to have a certain sweetness to it, a hint of vanilla to me while retaining its spicy character. The fragrance smells warm and luxurious for most part and then it further evolved into a scent that i associate with things vintage (for instance a lit fireplace library with tall wooden bookshelves and a old leather armchair). The amber gold liquid developed into a being with a subtle tone of spiciness with a hint of wood and vanilla, very warm and cozy, something i would reach out for if i were ever left in the cold. It does have a middle eastern element (from the name to the colour of the fragrance, everything) which i find it most acceptable and certainly wearable to me even in this humid and hot weather, which it lasts a good 8 hours at least on me. This is certainly one of the most complex fragrance i have ever worn and owned and yes, it opened my "nose" to the world of niche perfumery (which can only mean more additions to my stash and wearing the precious liquid amber carefully) and the Ambers. Note: I do not possess any technical knowledge or sophistated vocabulary to "flower"my review about it so i am going to describe it the best i can with my layman understanding of it.

Some fragrances require you to commit to them and Ambre Sultan is definitely one of those. It is one of the references for amber in modern perfumery which is interesting in itself because it is in many ways a very old school style fragrance with a very traditional feel, blended in a quintessentially European style. The first thing you notice when you spray it is how deep and rich it is which is to be expected from an amber fragrance, but also how aromatic and dry greeny it is, which is not. I sprayed it yesterday and my partner raised an eyebrow and said "you smell like old school money". She's right. This is a complex and quite heavy scent that focuses on the relationship between a gorgeously rich amber note and a lineup of green herbs and some spices that are heavier and more stringent than you expect. You have bayleaf, basil, oregano, coriander and I think some cumin that smell like my kitchen but in a really nice way. It is uncompromising at first but the aromatics aren't medicinally difficult and this never feels synthetic. The amber is apparent in the head, heart and base of this fragrance and is very much a showcase of its sweetness and resinous texture. In the base it takes on this wonderfully hedonistic, quite indulgent feel with a generous double measure of vanillic benzoin, that seems almost to counterpoint the greener, slightly herbal Tuscan kitchen vibe opening. That sees Ambre Sultan go sweeter and richer in the drydown and I personally find that the most enjoyable part of wearing this. Deconstructing this fragrance by note sort of misses the point though. It is very much a vibe; this one is all about how it feels to wear it. You do need to be a confident sort of person to carry it off and it is most certainly not a casual wear, or indeed I would say a very regular reach. This is a special occasion thing for moments where you want refined but powerful individuality and in that sense is classically Serge Lutens and quintessentially Christopher Sheldrake. They do not really do daily wearers in any classic interpretation of that term anyway, and have made creative and delicate top end niche perfumery a bit of a hallmark. Ambre Sultan is most definitely that. As with all the others of this wonderful house that I own, I love smelling it from the bottle for absolutely no reason at all, almost as much as wearing it. Layering Suggestion: A base layer for Spiriteuse Double Vanilla by Guerlain. Trust me. It is one of my all time favourite layering combos. Three Word Summary: Resinous, Herby Amber Scent - 7/10 Drydown - 9/10 Sillage - 8/10 Bottle/packaging - 7/10 Performance - 8/10 39/50

This is what i would refer to as quintessential niche perfumery. It is bold, it doesn't pull back punches with the notes, it's unapologetic with the direction it goes with, it's not afraid to turn some people off - even the most experimental and brave designer perfumes will compromise at least partially. Ambre Sultan - when people say "herbal and spicy" this is what it means. It's like huffing straight from a bag with mixed herbs and spices in the openings, and at the bottom of the bag there are freshly scraped off a tree trunk resins, that give it warm balsamic smoothness as it is drying down. The words cannot truly convey how realistic the feeling of all described above is.. there is not a hint of artificiality here. With that scent profile, one would imagine this would last a week on skin, but as it is the case with all scents that do not utilize synthetic aroma chemicals, this is not the case - i would say it has moderate projection and longevity on skin, but the drydown can linger as a skin scent at least for 24h. Overall, this is a classic niche scent. And by the very definition of the word "niche" it is not to everyone's taste, but i wouldn't call it "polarizing" or anything. Its niche in the sense that the noses trained on designer perfumery will be initially put off by how much the scent doesn't care to be safe or mass pleasing. In the same vein as the tastebuds accustomed to drinking supermarket quality whisky such as Johnny blue label or Royal Salute in a big tumbler with ice, are shocked when tasting neat unchill filtered, naturally colored cask strength quality Single Malt for the first time - "what the F*** is this? This burns, this is undrinkable!" but given time and experience, they start to appreciate the details, the quality, the natural feeling, the taste and aroma bucket that have not being processed through the corporate mass market filters. Same thing goes with perfumery such as Serge Lutens "Ambre Sultan". This is not a 500$ "panty dropper", it's resins, herbs and spices done right. If you are into such a thing, you will be delighted to own it. 50ml testers go for 50$, so i would call it better value than 99,9% of what designer and most of the niche world can offer, especially the so called designer house "elixirs" or pseudo-niche houses like PdM.

I always liked Ambre Sultan. For a long time all I got was a simple amber, but done with gorgeous materials: mainly a dark vanilla with labdanum and a smidge of benzoin. It was good. I kept it for winter. Depending on time, temperature etc I would either get 1: a cozy toasted marshmallow smell. Or 2: a deep and mysterious roman crypt with light from burning torches dancing across the stone walls, but there is a gladiator hiding there, snacking on some marshmallows, with dried strawberry milk ice cream spilt on the floors. Then I discovered how gorgeous Ambre Sultan is in the heat of summer nights. In the warmth I would get black balsamic licorice nuances. After two years of living with it, i got more and more of the aromatic notes listed (which scared me in the beginning) The opening is where you can smell them, mostly a dusty but soothing Laurel. There is also a very sophisticated but sort of old fashioned musk in the base. I totally love this perfume both for freezing winter and sultry summer evenings. For leisure and dressed up aituations. I love the old palais logo editions the most, it wears like an extrait version of the one available now, which is superb too, it is just not as thick. Ambre Sultan comes with huge projection and great longevity no matter the season. It feels regal, sometimes it's an ancient potion, other times simply that cozy sweet you crave. Totally a steal at the prices you can get this for. Like so many before me, I will state, this is an Amber for life!

Vintage from 2003: fucking dirty resin. Oregano. Sweetness in the amber and myrrh. Dirty hippy patchouli. Almost peppery aromatic herbs. Never smelled anything like this, at first, not sure if I like it, but I can’t forget about this. An hour or two in: everything is toned down but still present to a point that it is still beautiful, but bearable (and wearable). The vanilla is more prominent now too, and the paper I sprayed it on, two feet away, gives off scent that I can still smell in waves. At hour 3 or 4 this becomes suitable for public wear. At hour 1 it is so strong that, in my boyfriend’s words, it’s the equivalent of flashing lights to a photosensitive epileptic. It’s at its most beautiful at hour two or 3 when the blast wears off. This 2003 edition is a powerhouse and I hope/am afraid that the 2020s version has similar qualities. But maybe I don’t know what’s good for me, and too much of a good thing is possible. To me, this perfume evokes heartbreak. Loss of one’s homeland. Animalic sweat- sexy. Dirty feelings. Knowing what I know about Serge Lutens, this perfume was definitely made by a guy with an Oedipus complex about his Middle Eastern mother who abandoned him in France and had to create a whole sexy-dirty orientalist story to get over it. 10/10 messed up people should make art.

This is pure magic on my skin, 26° summer weather and this is going to be up there in my top 3 perfumes. This is a lacquered cedar chest full of spices and resins being bartered over with a man carrying two sacks of freshly picked herbs - oregano and patchouli are conspicuous. Men are sipping fragrant tea sweetened with rare honey and there are plates of Indian sweets on the tables. A dry gust of wind passes briefly and carries the musk of horses and their riders. This is what Ghenghis Khan would have smelled like. I love it when a perfume tells me a story and this one is more of a saga. I applied it around 1030 am and it's pumping off my skin almost 12 hours later. Absolutely perfect hot weather fragrance for me, but I will rock it any time except for maybe rainy days because it wouldn't fit the story. The benzoin in this is done to perfection too and creates a deep, resinous vanillic dryness, the myrrh gives incense but not church style. The oregano is applied in a much better way than Interlude Man which I don't like and it brings out the notes of the wood and resins. The patchouli is rare and camphorous in the opening, and the bay gives it a masculine, slightly barbershop nuance. This is dense, chewy and sweaty but in a good way. God made me Funky And this is funkadelic!

I've come around on ambre sultan, in my first review i was almost bashing it and calling it mid in a sense, because i expected a big resinous amber as i repeatedly heard it described as "the best amber in the game" and it wasn't that for me! i expected a middle eastern oriental style of amber, very thick very resinous and rich, but it was total opposite, it's a very transparent french style amber, airy, not dense at all, i'd even describe it as thin. after i erased all expectations from my head and judged it as a composition without expectations is when i started appreciating it, it's very spicy in the opening and it's a little challenging to me just because that's not the type of amber i enjoy, a spicy amber is what im referring to, and this is pretty much a transparent spicy amber, more spicy than ambery in the first 10-15 mins then it goes into a vanillic slightly sweet amber, has a waxy component about it for sure but it never comes across as thick or cloying which is something i've come to like about it, it wears very elegant and classy, it's a brilliant composition even thought it's not my "ideal" amber.

Please don't overspray like I did... I feel nauseous and have a stomachache now LOL! You unfortunately can't go noseblind to resinous smells quick... so prepare to smell this for a while. In fact, I can almost taste it too. That aside, this stuff slaps. It's mature and sophisticated smelling, sweet and thick resins on a clean fragrance backbone. Vanilla completes the sweet dimension. Aromatics give a nice savory bite. Animalic though not in the skanky-nasty way... but in a naturalistic way (like something you'd smell in a forest... think herbs, sap, nectar, pine, etc.) Not very ‘mystical’ smelling, I feel like it's trying to be since it's a "niche" house. It still smells inherently 'perfume-y'. I layered with Patchouli 24 - Le Labo the other day and it gave it an amazing benzoiny, incense + bonfire-esque smell. Only then can it smell super mystical and ancient. Dress up and look nice if you want this to smell good in front of others, because the smell is STRONG! Lasts a whole day, projects big 2-3 hours. GREAT... staple amber! luxurious and very stable! Perfect on its own or for layering! 9/10.

Perhaps the most artistic expression of Amber out there. It is full of facets, at times contradictory and other times in harmony. It is like looking at abstract expressionist painting - I don't really know where it starts and where it ends, but I suppose I know what it's about. The opening was medicinal, then it turns smokey, then spicy & sparkly, then dark and deep, then smooth and sweet - all the time while retaining an absolutely gorgeous golden warmth of amber. But i found each of those "notes" sparkles again and again at different times - even in its dry down. Among all ambers, this is the odd one out. It is amber gone idiosyncratic, a bit misbehaved, a bit kooky. It's a sultan goes nomad, a prince goes racy, a duchess goes kinky I plan to wear this to that eventual invitation of my ex's wedding, or that snobbish gallery opening (when i plan to make scathing comments about all the paintings), or when I submit my resignation letter to my CEO, or to the funeral of my rich aunt whom I have hated since I was 15.

Ambre Sultan really is a fantastic reference Amber, for those that want to familiarise themselves with this fragrance family more, but it’s so much more than that. This is easily one of the best ambers on the market even today, which is seriously impressive given how cheap it can be found online. It takes Amber into a more aromatic direction than you might expect. The Amber accord itself is very rich - heaps of dry, thick resins and powdery woods resting on just a whisper of sweet, creamy vanilla. Before this gets too warm however, this dense aromatic herbaceous-ness comes into play which is utterly sublime; what smells like bay leaf which is both dry and green, leafy and stemmy which somehow complements the antagonist notes perfectly. I adore this fragrance, it’s easily one of the best from Serge Lutens and for the price it would be insane not to own it. I’m going to thoroughly enjoy wearing this sample and will hopefully pick up a full bottle very soon. Incredible perfumery here.

To put it simply, Ambre Sultan is a tale of two accords. You have the amber side dressed up with amber, myrrh, vanilla, and benzoin as the standouts. On the other side you get the beautiful green accord to balance it out and bring in the unique earthy accord with coriander, oregano and angelica (oregano being the king standout on that side). These two accords play magically together. As the fragrance plays out, you get a nice warm overall feeling without feeling like your blasting everyone out of the water. The scent is strong but the sillage hugs close. Because Ambre Sultan carries so many blended notes, you can trick your brain into picking out lots of different profiles as the day goes on. Sometimes you're picking up heavily on the sweet side and at others you're getting that earthy green side with all the vegetation. If you like mature fragrances, this one will be up your alley. It has enough going on that I feel like it is timeless. It can be enjoyed by men and women alike.

Ambre Sultan is truly an extraordinary blend of aromas, one that stands apart from most other amber fragrances. Much of its uniqueness comes from the bitter, resinous opening, yet despite that sharpness, the composition remains sweet in its own way—dense, almost viscous. It is perhaps this striking contrast that secured the great success of Lutens and Sheldrake’s creation. Today, Ambre Sultan has become nothing short of a legend. There is something deeply alluring and seductive in its resinous aroma, making it a fragrance one reaches for with pure delight. This kind of sensual, balsamic sweetness simply cannot be found elsewhere. While officially marketed as a unisex scent, I find Ambre Sultan to lean noticeably toward the masculine side—a true man’s amber. It performs beautifully in the colder months, and though I wouldn’t call it a cuddly fragrance, it undeniably radiates a comforting warmth. Like rays of sunlight captured in amber. My rating: Highly recommended! (7/7)

Mesmerising, insanely beautiful, pure luxe, the OG amber perfume. Both wearable and very unique, bold and refined. Unlike many other reviewers, I don't find Ambre Sultan masculine leaning, it's genderless and smells fantastic on the right woman (or man). The "herbaceous" notes of bay leaf and oregano are tangible, but do not smell like homely kitchen spices at all. Yes, they may remind you of a Middle Eastern souk, spices and dried fruits exuding their rich smell into the heated air. It is sweet, but naturally sweet, like ripe fruits, never synthetic. The texture of this perfume is velvety-powdery, it's somehow both very present and soft, like a touch of someone who knows you very well and who cares. Extremely comforting, cocooning, but also seductive. In my opinion, Ambre Sultan still smells very modern. I love love love it, if you want to get an amber perfume, look no further, buy this. It is also relatively affordable while smelling like a million bucks.

This one took me some time to figure out. At first, that sour, dry herbal quality, completely threw me off. It's pungent and a bit peculiar, I didn't like it at first but it smelled strangely addictive in the air, especially once it settled down, I was about to write it off but something drew me back to it, I kept mulling over it, occasionally dabbing the sample on the back of my hand, and eventually, it clicked. This is a masterpiece. There's definitely a certain harshness to it, it's disheveled and completely parched, it almost makes you thirsty, there's dirtiness lurking underneath and it's constantly on the verge of turning into something sinister, but it never does, instead, as it dries down it becomes soft and warm and deeply intoxicating. It's pure comfort in a bottle and I reckon there's something really seductive about it. I don't know if it's love or just Stockholm Syndrome but I'm way past caring. I'm buying one.

Oh my gosh this is heavenly. I don't even care if some may say it's reformulated, if in fact that's even true. I have a recent bottle and this will make your eyes roll back in your head. The best way I can describe this fragrance is this: It's a cold, brisk evening in the early fall. You just got out your cozy sweater for the first time this year and you're sitting by the fireplace. You're tired from a long day, just had a good workout and hot shower. You got that sweater on with your favorite pair of jeans and some warm socks. Now your having a perfect meal with your favorite beer, sitting in your cozy chair, right after sundown with the fire crackling. You started The Man Who Knew Too Much and you're grateful just be alive to experience this state of utter bliss. The final ingredient to bring this perfect moment into full cozy Nirvana is two sprays of Ambre Sultan. Everything just melts away. This is autumn in a bottle.

My grandparents used to work for British Petroleum and lived in all manner of places, including Paris, Bombay (Mumbai), Lagos, and Baghdad before settling in Montreal. Everywhere they traveled they had this massive chest containing all manner of souvenirs from these places. Whenever I got the chance to go over to their house I would rummage through it and be captivated in wonder of the pictures of the temples, monuments, and landscapes, some of which I still wonder stand after all these decades. Why am I waxing nostalgic about some old chest my grandparents lugged around for years on a perfume review site? Because Serge Luten's Ambre Sultan smells of that chest. The spice, the warmth, a sense of longing, and a cocoon of nostalgia. Maybe it's because its Christmas at the time of writing and my grandparents have long since passed, but this perfume evokes that sense of wonder and imagination I've not thought about in years.

Blind-tested, and this is what I guessed: amber, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, charred wood. Challenging for me in the beginning. Perhaps because it’s a swampy Second Summer-type day out here. But around about 20 minutes in, I was sold. It’s arresting! Some combination of notes is insanely intoxicating and has transfixed me. An interesting union of aromatic herbs and spices with amber, resins, and subtle tacky sweetness. Glorious complexity. I’ll freak for this in the cold months. Oregano, CORIANDER, angelica, BAY LEAF, myrtle, MYRRH, vanilla, PATCHOULI, tolu balsam, LABDANUM, styrax, BENZOIN, amber, SANDALWOOD. I like the sound of that! Smells even better. Ambre Sultan is a most masterful creation. An opulent, warm, thick, come-hither, amber overdose resin bomb. Love it on my skin, but I’ll call it masculine-leaning. Grand Soir, Schmand Schmoir? NOT SO FAST. I want both. MASTERPIECE

I blind bought this, and without hesitation, it smells exactly like the cheap hair oil my Indian barber always tries to put on my hair after a haircut. I keep telling him not to use it because I can't stand the smell. To be fair, I can see why some people might find this fragrance interesting or even addictive. It definitely has character. But for me, the core scent is awful. I think the heavy herbal and culinary spice notes in this fragrance completely ruin it. Update: I owe this fragrance an apology. After wearing it several more times, my opinion changed completely. This is actually an excellent amber fragrance with outstanding performance, a refined and elegant character, and impressive longevity. I think it is particularly well suited to those over 35, as it has a mature and sophisticated style. I highly recommend giving it a proper chance before judging it—I certainly did.