La Proie Pour L'Ombre

One of the best fragrances I've recently come across. Starts off with a leather note similar in Cuir Mauresque, with a vanilla and coffee-like back-bone, but after about 30 minutes-1 hour the salty, amazing licorice note begins to emerge. This brings about the actual focus of this fragrance, immortelle. Not like Bourreau des Fleurs which focuses on immortelle's full aspect of herbal, dry and slightly syrupy inflections, this dials down on the syrupy qualities and licorice only fully supports that element. While one would think this would be too sweet, it is balanced to a degree where it isn't overbearing (in my opinion, but I also love sweeter fragrances). This is no Rahat Loukoum in terms of the sweet factor. A fragrance that really does have unique phases, so it stays interesting, and I love each phase. Lasts 12+ hours, projection is not overwhelming. A definite must purchase for me and would recommend anyone to check it out. /rant This is the only house that invokes people to say, "this is like a remix/redux of other SL fragrances" or "this is just X SL fragrance". The house has a specific perfumer and creative director, OF COURSE it's going to have similarities, that is what defines the house and the people who like the fragrances. Can we please stop utilizing this as a negative remark and realize any house with a dedicated director/perfumer will always have the DNA that makes them unique? Isn't that WHY we try/buy the fragrances in the first place? /rant off

Wow, I was trying Fumerie Turque in the store (also another stunner from the brand) when the saleswoman asked me if I had already smelled La Proie pour l'Ombre and wow this is good. I agree on the resemblance with Dior's Eau Noire as this is a strong Licorice/Vanilla (and sober leather) with a touch of Curry/fenugreek/cloves (this may be my brain tricking me however the Curry/fenugreek is less potent than the one in Eau Noire) and a bit of what smells like coffee as well. It is an absolute 10 out of 10. I managed to get 100ml brand new for 140€ and it is totally worth it. Edit 30/11/2021: A masterpiece, the opening is straight Coffee grounds and dark cocoa before going on the licorice/immortelle/vanilla combo this is otherworldly the more I smell it the more it differs from Eau Noire, it is way darker and more suited for very cold weather

Holy crapola, I enjoyed this sample. The more time I invest into my fragrance journey, the harder it becomes to truly knock my socks off and make me say "DAMN, THAT'S GOOD" out loud. Based on the listed notes, I didn't think I would like this as much as I do (the licorice mention made me wary), but DAMN, I could not stop smiling while catching whiffs of myself the day that I wore this. The price tag is a bit much, but the scent is so damn good and lasts so long that not even the price tag can knock this from a love to a like. I sincerely doubt that this will hit the discounters any time soon, but I plan on keeping my eyes peeled for the next year or two.

This note breakdown seems incomplete- this has to have either immortelle or fenugreek, and as it dries down I find that aspect to be more the star of the show than the coffee or licorice that support it. Vanilla is also prominent- and this is a very sweet perfume, but it is just herbal and earthy enough to keep it from being cloying. I would have tested this sooner if the notes list was more comprehensive. It's a beautiful blend for my taste. I'm still miffed at Lutens for the ridiculous gratte-ciel prices, but I found a new bottle for 60% less than retail from a reputable discounter so I added this beauty to the collection :)

To have such a prominent liquorice note is, I would say, very unusual in perfumery. If you've ever smelled or tasted liquorice root you'll know it has a very unusual taste and aroma, one that most people are not accustomed to. That makes this a very distinctive scent. You'll stand out. People may wonder what it is. Some may not even identify it as perfume, and probably be intrigued. You're definitely off the beaten path here, I would say. But if you like liquorice, you'll most likely love this. It's a very natural smelling liquorice note, and makes for a very dark, unique, masculine scent.