Serge Noire

Lutens' scents are generally known for amber, cumin, and other arabist elements which remain largely unsurpassed by other houses. Here, however, these more familiar scents are displaced by the native plants of Indonesia's Spice Islands, and the result is totally different, an apotheosis of cold and heat. A stinging, bloodied, destructive thing which could lay waste to a town, but at the same time utterly beautiful. Serge Noire is, just like the other Mohairs, a monochromatic, somewhat solemn scent, composed primarily of ash and cloves, ground into a granular texture and left to be forgotten in the darkest corner of an ancient church catacomb. Its opening is particularly arresting, with softly animalic flint-like elements creating a sense not only of the smell of cloves, but of someone desperately trying to start a fire somewhere as the 'ancient ones' close in from the dark. I do find it menacing... it smells somehow like it would burn or is otherwise dangerous in a very unsexy way. It might simply be its unrelenting nature but there's something very unsympathetic and even almost cruel in the way Serge Noire smells... it smells like an emotionless observer of immense suffering, with no desire to intervene or lend help. As it sits on the skin it does rapidly "settle in"... rather than developing as a traditional perfume, it behaves almost like a musk and starts to intermingle with the skin until it's hard to distinguish where the perfume ends and the smell of frightened, panicked sweat begins. The blend of coldness and hot spices does make it feverish, it somehow smells the way that having caught the flu might physically feel - perpetually cold and seeking warmth but, paradoxically, already incredibly hot. Lying just beneath this spicy-cold mid is a faint but nevertheless highly disturbing animalic. In brief fits and starts I detect gentle wafts of something almost urinous or blood-like, the metallic scent of a smashed tooth or some other gore. I don't experience an obvious sweetness in Serge Noire's drydown, but it does lose its menthol knives and caustic might to give rise to a somewhat gentler, but still cool-spicy finish. We must assume, I think, that the slow development of this scent (which is said to have taken many years) likely results from the fact that clove bud oil, its seeming central element, is perhaps restricted in perfumery. As such, I believe this clove accord of Serge Noire has been built at least in part by hand, i.e. by careful combining of non-clove elements to pad out and enlarge the scent of the clove itself, or perhaps by use of some arcane clove extraction. I suspect it was there, in that painstaking process of manual assembly, that Lutens and Sheldrake discovered the opportunity to spook as much as delight the wearer via some synthetics (or naturals) which remain unknown. That something so diabolical-smelling could be IFRA compliant seems a wonder in itself. Throughout its entire lifetime on the skin it smells incredibly dramatic, like a hyper-potent distillation of some exotic plant that has been bleached of all its life to give a stripped down, "industrialised" essence. I find it incredibly evocative and generally horrifying - think Silent Hill in a bottle. It does lean masculine by conventional standards and lasts a respectable 6 hours on me. It's one of Serge's most challenging scents of all (not easy with the stiff competition) and is very likely to offend others who can't see the wonder or art in perfumery (or who simply can't stand animalic cloves). For my part, I think this little clovey thing is a true masterpiece.

Serge Noire was launched in 2008 and its name actually has a kind of double meaning. That's because the name of Serge is also the name of a fabric (In Portuguese, Sarja; in English, Twill). So, it seems that Serge took advantage of this duality, when naming this fragrance, but also to show a darker side of his personality, a kind of “Dark Serge”. In terms of concept, he says: "My first name is the name of a fabric. It strikes the right note for this fragrance. In a similar vein, nothing can capture this scent’s spirit better than subtle "snapshots" from the past, like a forgotten glove lying on an antique chair. Incense stirred by the smell of burnt wood". Serge Noire has notes of patchouli, cinnamon, amber, ebony wood, cloves, incense, ash, resins, and mix of spices. Some say that it took more than 10 years to be ready. On the skin, Serge Noire is one of the most powerful fragrances of the House, no doubt. And because of that, it is also of the type "love it or hate it". During the first hour, the smell scares! There is a vivid nuance of clove, with the medicinal aspect (reminding the medicine used by dentists) and a sour smell reminiscent of sweaty armpits, especially on the areas where the perfume was sprayed. Maybe that part has something to do with the importance of twill in the late 19th century when it was widely used in the manufacture of military clothing. After this stage, a dark phase begins to emerge. The incense does not arise smoky, but pure, as if ready to be put on the coals. Still, a strong smell of spice mixes with incense, making me remember of cumin. And the wood seems dense, but not dry. Then, a certain contradiction between the spicy and creamy begins to appear. The cinnamon starts to become more present and the incense starts to burn and leave its fragrant smoke. At this stage of evolution, Serge Noire doesn't remember, in any sense, that fragrance of hours ago. Serge Noire evolves slowly and it is a smoky, spicy, strong, uncomfortable, and quite masculine perfume, even though it's unisex. But don't think that the simple fact that you like spicy or smoky fragrances will be enough to appreciate this one. Not everyone can handle this more obscure facet of Serge. I see darkness, ashes and pain fading out through the air, as the smoke of fine incense, which burns slowly, perfuming, and pushing away evil spirits.

What an interesting fragrance. It evolves and changes, from a dirty blob to a magnificent ashy phoenix. This scent is anything but linear. At first spray, a dirty spice bomb: a blast of clove, cumin, cinnamon, combined together on a sweaty base. Quite difficult to handle during the first 5 mins. Then this spicy sweatiness suddenly morphs into a dusty scent, very much what Serge states as "a forgotten glove on a polished armchair". Very evocative in its strangeness. This doesn't last long however, and the true heart of SN starts to emerge, stronger and stronger: camphorous incense, then more and more incense, burning away the dampness of the spices, turning them warm and dry. And then comes the glorious final: mystical clove and cinnamon wrapped in clouds of frankincense. Mesmerizing. The cumin spiciness still stands in the background, dry and behaved, giving the overall fragrance an edge that makes it definitely unique. In its dying phase, a sweet and soothing clove lingers for a while. As for perfomance and usability: moderate sillage, but its barely tamed and can show up when least expected. I experienced a good longevity but I got to say, one of the few fragrances I prefer on clothes than on skin: it will skip the pungent start and fast forward to the dusty smokey clove stage, making you feel like an elegant vampire wearing rich dark velvet, even though you are just a poor mortal wearing cotton: Dark, refined, seductive without trying to seduce. Also on clothes this one definitely lasts for DAYS, as if it was made for fabric. I don't usually rely much on day/night or seasons for wearability, yet this one is absolutely a creature of the chilly nights. Perfectly unisex, alluring on a woman, compelling on a man. There is something deeply esoteric about this fragrance, and it has an intimidating but majestic presence that reminded me of a religious totem or a sacred statue. It has almost a personnality on its own, it feels alive. One word: transcendence.

i've always found it shocking that this is such a divisive scent. it's a bit peculiar, sure, but its composition is quite minimalist and it's really not a room filler. It's opening, yes, is quite spicy. The top smells strongly of clove, cinnamon and maybe a hint of coriander, and as with many spicy fragrances, this phase lasts for longer than a top composed of citrus or aldehydes or more volatile florals, so you do have to like the smell of clove, but I certainly wouldn't call it a clove bomb. incense is present throughout, but I have trouble discerning the heart from the base. The core of the scent is cold and almost clay-like, which must be from the combination of ebony wood and whatever mix of resins or amber notes that provide it with its foundation. The majority of its wear is characterized by this soft, but somewhat moist and claylike woody drydown that's been informed by its spicy opening. I find it to be very attractive, and after buying a full bottle I realized I dated somebody that wore it (very weird when you have those lightbulb moments), but in no way to I find it to be overly demanding or even specific to a season or time of day (though by vibe i picked winter and night, i wear it year round when I want something with a cold, spicy character). I haven't really smelled anything quite like it, but I would place it in the same zone as Comme des Garçons Black EdT. Truly a joy to wear for me, but it's definitely exemplary of the fact that people interpret smells differently and this may read as interesting but wearable to you or you may feel like the hamburglar when you wear it, and it's probably best to try a sample first.

I am testing this from a decanted sample provided by nexangelus (THANK YOU, my lovely!). Serge Noire seems to inspire outright horror & revulsion in most of the reviewers below so therefore - naturally - I had to try it. I sprayed once - cautiously - to my inner wrist, taking care not to get any on clothing, bedding, innocent passers-by or my cats. The only way to describe the initial momentous blast of cloves, cinnamon and spices is "a full frontal assault". It's almost a physical punch to the nose. I don't pick up on the cumin other reviewers have remarked on, and have never experienced this note as BO anyway. But not since Mitsouko have I had such a violent antipathetic reaction to a perfume - clearly the only sane option was to SCRUB IT OFF - IMMEDIATELY. I caved with Mitsouko after 30 minutes and scrubbed... and scrubbed... AND SCRUBBED! Why do perfumes I loathe have such incredible staying power??? 20 minutes in, I took another cautious sniff. Hmmm. The overwhelming cloves and spices had subsided to manageable levels, so I sprayed again, two blasts this time to both inner wrists. 45 minutes in and - having sprayed neck & decolletage as well now - I am left with a stunningly beautiful incense, amber and wood perfume. It's creamy and almost sweet. Sillage is moderate. I rarely comment on longevity as my skin soaks up perfumes and I don't think it's a fair comparison. I LOVE this. Caveat: I own and love a number of Bertrand Duchaufour's creations (and Mugler's Womanity); so please take this into account.

Wow! As soon as I started to crack the vial, the sandalwood was out and about and the scent was swirling all around me even before I had the stopper all the way removed. Am I the only one who smells sandalwood in this? To me it’s the most prominent note, and it’s an excellent sandalwood, the kind that seems alive with an almost sweaty feeling, and it’s accompanied by lots of cinnamon and cloves. The amount of clove is unusual, since it’s not often used heavily in perfumes, probably because it seems to be a love-it-or-hate it note. There’s also a little bit of a musty dry note in SN, and maybe a tiny tendril of incense here and there. To me, it’s a luxurious mix of wood and spices. As it dries down the incense becomes more prominent, but the sandalwood is always there. To me this is not in any way sinister, gothic, or mysterious. I think the fact that the notes are not listed allows people to project whatever they want onto the fragrance, and the word “noire” together with Serge’s purple prose doesn’t help. I see it as a perfume that evokes the image of warm spice caravans rather than cold vampire crypts. In the middle of the drydown there is an interesting “ashy” note that I think could be associated with SL’s original phoenix imagery in which the bird burns itself in a spicy fire, to reappear again in the form of incense. I’ll go with that. The bottom line is that I love this perfume, and will use up my sample as I contemplate the need for a decant.

June, almost midsummer, but it's pouring down. It is wet and cold outside. But inside, wearing Serge Noire, I am warm and very happy in my skin. I can only agree with steveniox: Serge Noire seems to be hugely a matter of skin chemistry. On me, it starts a bit austere for the first couple of minutes and then turns into Christmas at the fireside. For hours and hours on end it wraps me up into a cashmere blanket of cloves and cinnamon, woods and an absolutely divine incense. After a few hours it gets creamier and warmer still, but not sweet. Sandalwood and Vanilla and incense and the other spices more in the background? I can understand the phoenix metaphor. There is a lot of development in this, it changes and changes. What I can't understand at all is the BO some reviewers seem to get. No, no BO at all. MUST be a matter of skin chemistry. It loves or hates you. I am grateful that it loves me and I love, love, love it back. Sparkling, comforting, reflective and very sexy at the same time. Whenever I smell this on a man, I could lick it off his skin. Definitely a vintage feeling, and very unisex. Like many others have said before me,this may be the very best Lutens (and I own many of them). I don't want to be without it ever and keep a backup bottle in my closet at all times in case I run out.

There was a time at the Serge Lutens website when all descriptions went on like this. Ambre Sultan: "Aromatic resins"; Chergui: "Crystalized saps'"; Arabie: " Dried fruits"; Gris Clair: "Lavender dust"; Muscs Koublaï Khan: "A Radiant Fur". And so on. You can still read all of them haikus through the Wayback Machine (dialed around 2010) and get a taste about the initial poetry powering the ideas behind those scents. At that same time, Serge Noire's description contained but one word: "Ashy". So, what is it about? First there was something that I couldn't quite put my finger on for a long time, now I know: a big cola-flavored bubble gum from my childhood. Other flavors in it: clove tincture over resinous candlewax incense and cinnamon (inseparable) ebony wood - burned but sweet. No actual smoke, no extrovert notes: gorgeous and strong, yet clearly made for introspection, a gothic contemplation of shadow and light. Ashes are liquid, not the dust and spice that could choke you, this one is almost edible. I inhale deeply.

Review from a 2008 'mansion" logo bottle. Sharp however calm clove first bursts through, with gentle help from cinnamon and patchouli, together with the edgy incense creating a metallic punch almost like a cutting blade! I'm tasting the cold folk/spoon from the freezer, for a moment I feel the blade is cutting a hot buttery spicy wrap, the inner though not known,I am sure the exotic filling is going to reveal itself in the later stage then swamp the entire sensation with maybe a far east spice bazaar, or maybe some Indian cuisine. But one is certainly anticipating a dramatic twist from this opening, something is for sure lurking about! It's not a sudden bomb, but a slow motion that Luten's signature oriental base then slowly flows, silent flow, like a black/white movie, with however dramatic development it strikes, remains silent and super calm, composed. A forever misunderstood fame, flapping away and swirl, surging the ashes and laughter, dies down to a puff of illusion.

Can you believe that it’s been about 4 years since i know this perfume..and just because of false propaganda i didn’t even dare to test it?? First of all, relax it’s a perfume; and second of all, god it’s a unique masterpiece!! People with unexperienced noses can’t tolerate queer smells. I remember once a friend of mine after testing mona di orio musc simply said: aaaaah baby talc :| Any way back to serge noire; to describe it easily i must say: (clove+incense+amber+spices) Actually i think ambre sultan is way spicier than this one. The opening is boom! Invasion of dominant clove and cinnamon creating the dark aspect of serge noire and on the other hand, a smooth relaxing amber accord regulating the spices. And then it gradually gets more quiet and tranquil but is still edgy. Two sprays and i repeat only two sprays of this liquid in the cold winter days does the magic. Scent: 8.7/10 Sillage: adequate with 1 or 2 sprays Does the rest matter?

Just recently recieved a sample of this and i can't get enough of i now, just ordered a full bottle!! :) Think this is the best of uncle Serge so far and believe me, i have tried and own a few! To me this has nothing with BO to do, it's not even dark, to me it smells of Christmas and gingerbread with it's cloves and cinnamon and incense! The topnot starts with some caraway that dissapears in a few moments, then it gets something almost chocolaty sweet mixed with cloves, then comes the cinnamon and incense and the earthy patchouli! It also has some wood in it that reminds me of Roberto Cavalli Nero Assoluto! After that it stays pretty linear until it disapears after 5-6 hours! It's mediumstrong, don't think i't projects very much, it's more like a veil of cozyness you are beeing swept in! Overall i think it's very warm, cozy spicy woody and reminds me of the holidays! One of the most underrated SL!

Updated review: I spritzed a little SN onto my wrist yesterday afternoon and gave it to my husband to smell after about 20 minutes. He wrinkled his nose and said he didn't like it at all. This morning, I sprayed my arms more liberally and let it dry down for 45 minutes before asking him to smell it again; I didn't tell him what I had applied, to ensure an unbiased response. He sniffed once (cautiously - he's tolerant of my perfume addiction but finds many of my true loves repellent - bless him, he puts up with a lot). He sniffed again, much more deeply and said, "Ooooh... That's really nice!" This perfume is VERY reactive to skin chemistry. Do NOT be put off by the first 20 minutes after spraying, which is a full frontal clove and spice punch to the face. Give it a chance to dry down, and you may be rewarded with a delightful creamy, spicy and woody fragrance which is - almost - sweet.

Serge Noire is indeed a clove-centric scent, but the cloves have been blunted and muted and don't come across as acidic, boorish and obnoxious. It's like the way butter or coconut milk can make sharp, awkward flavours a lot more palatable. It works in a way to blunt the harshness of cloves in ways unimaginable. It works like a dilutant of sorts -- removes the abrasiveness and zooms in on the pleasant parts. This has elements of Blamage to it, along with a few other elements and aspects of familiar scents I can't quite place (not yet), but it is a warm hug on a cold day, a lukewarm cup of sahlap when it's near freezing outside. It's the sound of torrential rain RIGHT after you get home. It's a wonderful, pleasant background ambiance that grows on you. Warming spices, woods and incense. All working together. It's liquid smooth. It's fluid gravity. I really like this one. (possibly love).

I can`t believe I always evaded trying this before. Even today I sprayed 3 different Lutens before this and when I noticed I had some space left on my right hand I said: well... ok... let`s put this one that receives so many bad reviews... And to be honest the first seconds it felt bad as if I had applied a rotten thing, but after some minutes I got bewitched. Dark, very sexy but somehow aloof and hard to grasp. It was definitely the one that i felt I had to have at some point and I think it is not an easy one but very unique nonetheless.I have to give it another go before I get it but it is definitely on my mind and can`t forget its charm. May it become my new signature? we`ll see. The fact that it gets too soft in an hour or so is a bit annoying given its initial strength and presence, but it helps make you feel you can tame it a bit. Really really a nice finding!

When I first smelled a sample of this fragrance I immediately wanted to throw it away, convinced it wasn’t for me. I cannot describe exactly what I experienced, but I just didn’t understand what this fragrance was supposed to be. Maybe I tried it in the wrong combination of samples that day, anyway I left it in a drawer and forgot about it. About a year later I found the sample again and tried it once more not expecting much of it, but then it happened... I fell in love with it and couldn’t stop sniffing my wrist. Suddenly every note fell in its place: the wood, the spices, the incense. After all, every note I usually love in a perfume is in there. I just didn’t get it the first time. Now Serge Noire is one of my signature scents. It’s warm, elegant, seductive and intriguing. Not something everybody loves, but definitely worth trying.

★★★★★★★★★☆ Overpowering clove. Plus black pepper, cinnamon and incense. Spicy, dry, warm, and smoky. Among the interestingly polarized views, we do find consensus that it’s not for everyday wear. It can come across as sharp, overwhelming, even offensive for some. I wore it out once and the comments I received weren’t friendly from what I can recall. And yet I still consider this a phenomenal fragrance because the olfactory experience is so unique and intoxicating. There’s nothing here to tame the sharp edge of clove - instead, the incense fuels it. It’s so fiercely spicy like a tight, feverish grip you can’t break away from. There is nothing you can do but falling hopelessly into a warm and sensual haze. (Review based on a bottle from around 7 years ago - unsure if it has been reformulated since being moved to the Gratte-ciel line.)

First the spices, then the musk (and what a properly good animalic musk it is) then the burnt woods and incense. I love it, but you've got to like all of those things to wear Serge Noire... also I find it a bit strange that such a strong musk doesn't last longer. Still, it is a deep favourite and I enjoy it thoroughly. It's dark, dark, dark and better in winter. Christopher Sheldrake has given us something beautifully gothic, the opposite of the fruity florals and crystal aldehydes on the market. This one is special. 10/10 :) Update: if you sweat whilst wearing this, exert yourself or get hot, the acridity is amplified and yes, you do get a male sweat note as described by some reviewers. Not a scent for the gym, unless you're having a "thing" with your personal trainer.... doesn't put me off, but it ain't for the retiring :)

this isn't inherently bad, just a bit flat considering it more or less smells like a melange of a bunch of older, better lutens. they take the amber of chergui, honeyed cinnamon of gingembre, cloves and dried fruit of fille en aiguilles, and the smoke of l'orpheline, add some nondescript wood and patch and bottle it. it is more or less the house's signature style in a scent--hence the name. as an introduction to the house, its a bit polarizing but a good idea of what lutens' woody, resinous scents have to offer--just at the trade off of personality and character, which make all the other scents in that genre from lutens my absolute favourites. edit: i also seem to dislike this for entirely different reasons than the reviewers below--i love the naughty, animalic spice factor but it never, ever goes stinky or body odour on me.

Pure piece of work ! In my opinion, the difference between a good and a great composition may reside in its changing ability. A perfectly balanced fragrance that is monolithic and linear turn sometimes boring after a whole day of wearing (Gucci PH for ex.). The evolution of Serge Noire reveals a multi-faceted mix at each stage. Beyond the notes that are present here and are a matter of taste, the beautiful work of arranging all that stuff must be acknowledged. I am a lucky man that both appreciate the notes and the construction of this perfume, which has been for me (just for a while) the end of my quest for the ultimate one. If you are a fan of incense and oriental frag but dislike everything that turns sweet on your skin, you should get a decant of this masterpiece. Flavour : incense

I wanted something to project a "Don't mess with me" vibe, so wore Serge Noire to work today and was surprised to receive a few compliments from my students. They don't suck up to me about my perfumes. In the past I've been told "No offence miss, but I don't like your perfume." I like to encourage honest and open dialogue. It backfires occasionally. VERY misleading sillage on this - I honestly thought this was wearing quite close to the skin, but at the end of the day, one of the students came into the library and said how "nice it smells in here - it's your perfume, miss." I was about 8 metres from her, but I had left my jacket on my chair. She was two metres from that as well, though! I had sprayed (on skin) twice about 4 hours before. Spray with caution! Longevity is moderate.

This is a gorgeous unisex spicy perfumes. To me, it reminds me slightly of Jo Malone 154 perfume from the initial blast of spices. Cloves are so strong at the beginning, but after 1-2 hours they start to soften up and fade into the woody notes. The ebony and wood start to take the stage. I agree with the other reviewers that it evolves over time and quickly becomes reminiscent of other spices and vanilla-like amber. The ambery feel is very cozy and comfortable. This fragrance is definitely heavy and is not for everybody. It's intense, sophisticated, complex and very straight and direct. One or two sprays is more than enough to feel it during the day. It is a masterpiece though. I prefer it over other spicy fragrances I got (154 by JM, Robert Piguet Bandit, etc).

i literally finally pulled the trigger on getting this because of the "gothic pencil" review below. gothic pencil ?! SOLD ! and i have no regrets. i suppose i can see why serge noire is so polarizing: Must Love Clove. Must Be Open To Medicinal Suggestions (do you enjoy cough drops?). but for me, it's the sort of fragrance i often dream of--mysterious, a tad intimidating, while also comforting and alluring. serge noire somehow manages to be cold and warm, hard and soft all in one; a true dichotomy. on cloth i find that initial clove and herbaceous blast lasts for ages, while on the skin it transitions into a creamy sweet cinnamon that, with the lingering clove and wood in the background, is still unique. i find it to be totally unisex. adore.

I saw lots of reviews where people find it repulsive. I expected it to be challenging, but it's not challenging at all! It's a beautiful cooling spicy scent. Absolutely lovely. I feel camphor, cumin, clove, menthol, white pepper – that sort of thing. I also smell pine wood. If Fille de Aiguille is summery pine forest, then Serge Noire is frosty pine forest. To me it's very comforting and pleasant. Like an expensive and elegant take on tiger balm (I love tiger balm). My back ache is gone just from smelling this. Upd: it's so addictive! I can't stop sniffing my wrist. It also passed the cat test. My cat loves smells such as toothpaste, tiger balm, minty lip balms, and she is all over Serge Noire, she won't stop licking my wrist.

I love it but not everybody will... Tested on blotter: nearly a garlic/onion feel with spices... Time to test on skin!! Edit: tested it on skin. (Thank you Aetherealist for the decant) This is a pure blast of cloves and cumin! In the drydown, a shy incense makes an appearance as a supporting note, reminding me of LM Black Oud. Then the late drydown is warmer with the appearance of amber and patchouli notes. Linear with moderate projection. Longevity could have been better (totally disappeared after 4 hours). This is a beautiful dark fragrance, that may not be easy to pull off in any circumstances. As soon as my sample is over, this is going to transform in a full bottle.

Explosive, crackling clove smolders like the last embers of a forest fire, pure black ash as far as the eye can see. The spices here are undeniably "dirty" and there's no getting around it. It may be from cumin and it may just be the overdose of clove, I'm not quite sure. The ebony wood underneath feels dry and peppery like guaiac, and it blends with a cool fizzy incense that lightens the whole composition and provides a contrast to the red hot top notes. As it dries down a soft, resinous base similar to Ambre Sultan reveals itself, and the spices and incense fade to just a few sparks. Beautiful, sexy, arresting, and meditative all at once.

A spicy woody marvel of modern perfumery, this is a very polarizing perfume from this very eclectic line of perfumes. The perfume opens with a flurry of spices including cloves, cinnamon, and cumin. The brief heart is ebony wood and incense. The perfume settles on a powdery bed of patchouli, amber and frankincense. The masculine leaning scent has moderate to strong sillage and good longevity. Not for everyone especially those offended by cumin, but those into spicy woody scents will find this a criterion composition to savor over and over again. Enjoy!

Whoa--Opens with so many different, distinct scents hitting all at once, many of them combine to make something like a powdery, intoxicating rootbeer accord. Really interesting, and great. Quickly starts drying down to something like a "sophisticated playdough". This sounds weird, but kind of works. Spicy. Dark. Subtle woods. Thankfully, not sweet. The cloves and incense are here really strongly. Another fragrance from Serge Lutens that has really impressed me. Not sure I love/need it enough to buy it, but this is a very well made "winner" for someone.

this one is extremely sweet and dense! i get the cinnamon and other warming spices, but i also get a large dose of bubblegum sweetness. it's there and clear for all and sundry. it's an intoxicating scent that is growing on me. there's something sherbet fizzy about this in that it strikes some sort of accord that gives it a spritely boost. something animalic there in the background, too, but it isn't overpowering, just adding depth and base. overall, a great perfume and one that warrants trialing. love it!

One of my all time faves. Seductive, dry sweet heat, cinnamon bark and clove, incense, dusty cumin and patchouli. It is strong and will offend others so I only wear at home, although would really love to wear out for drinks at a very swanky bar. I wish naysayers could smell it the way my nose does, perfectly magical. I get nothing fishy or bad, dirty sex at points yes. It does tickle my nose but I adore it anyway, a total experience for me. What a sultry blend of spices. Will forever love.

Much better in winter. Not at all a warm-weather scent, because of the cumin. I have 3 bottles and I'm now used to the bite on this, but I don't wear it for 8 months of the year. Like some other Lutens scents, it only smells balanced in cool conditions where the other notes aren't overpowered by this or that spice note, which my warm skin amps up. This is in contrast to Annick Goutal, whose scents are seemingly made for hot weather and thrive in 80° heat. Quirks of different Houses :) x

I was very disappointed after I bought it. I felt strange, because Serge Noir was like antiparfum for me. I can't explain. but diring the cold winter and even now in the beginning of spring I just can't stop smelling it. I spray it every 2 hours when I'm in it. its like a narcotic. my mind becomes insane. it needs a doping every time. such a strange and bizzare fragrance. love me or leave me as Nina Simon used to sing. and I'm just loving it!

I appreaciate all the scents of Serge Lutens very much, because I finally find there what I had been looking for many years. Serge Noir is absolutely wonderful, it ́s like sitting at a fireplace in a cold dark evening and smelling the burning woods, I literally feel the warmth of fire when I smell it! I will not wear it when I want to feel feminine or seduce someone, but when I want to feel comfortable and cozy, it ́s a scent of home for me!

Oh my, oh my, oh my. I've been looking for a clove-centered frag, ordered a sample of this, and found my home. It's so warm, spicy, delicious. I can't praise the smell enough. But as Professor Oak says, "There is a time and place for everything." Noire is a good indicator. Don't wear this on a hot day or you'll smell like BO for half an hour and it'll go away. In the cold, however, an absolute dream. Sillage is 6/10, longevity 5/10.

Sometime I love it! Sometime I hate it! No doubt it's one of the most difficult scents to wear... You'll have to tame it, and it takes time! The opening is very strong with camphre, and smells in a very medicinal way, almost repulsive! After a few minutes, it becomes more confortable and still enigmatic, whith an amber and woody touch in the end. Gothic like cathedrals and mystic...like someone attracted by shadow and light.

i left that last review before i checked the individual components. there was something eerily familiar about this perfume, and then, when i saw that 'ebony teak' was part of it, it hit me! there's a "idole by lubin" current running through this! it must be the accord struck between incense, ebony and something else. this is a sweeter, spicier version on idole. both are lovely...

Serge Noire. What a scent. Do not judge a Serge fragrance based on the opening top notes. Yes it's polarizing and challenging for many. It smells of spices, reminiscent of cooking with onions... Let it sit and warm up on your skin and you'll discover an incredibly suave incense woody amber scent. Surprisingly wearable if you let it settle before appearing in public.

Serge Noire is one of my favorite fragrances for colder days. It is very longlastinag and has good sillage. The scent itself is perfect balance of masculine sweatness combined with pepper, cinammon and a touch of amber. I love it. It's like you're wrapped in a soft and safe scarf that keeps you warm and sends a firm message to others. I am a man of good taste.

opening can be a little overwhelming on first impression but once it calms down it turns into a very nice concoction of cloves and cinnamon. overall its very spicy and somewhat sweet, a nice change from all the other orientals being very heavy on the sweet side. i find the scent to be quite comforting and can definitely see it growing on me more.

God! This is one incredible fragrance. I can't do it justice by trying to describe it, and anyway, some of these fantastic reviews here do the job for me, MUCH better than I possibly could! I don't get the BO smell at all, lucky me, and for the rest? Phew! and WOW!!! I love it!!!! It's completely thrilling.....and beautiful.....and Noir. Perfect.

I find it odd that this fragrance is so polarising. It was love at first sniff for me and everyone else I have introduced it to. I even got a rare compliment from a stranger whilst wearing it. No body odour, no savoury, culinary associations whatsoever. Of course, try before you buy, but you might just be pleasantly surprised.

I've uturned on this since first smelling it a few months ago. I found it meaty and repulsive, but now, perhaps because my nose has done some learning, I find it beautiful. You really have to love cloves, and the opening/first hour is not for public transport, work, etc, but the dry down is gorgeous.

When you read the reviews it is as if you are talking about two different perfumes. I experience nothing of BO over it. Rather, it makes me think of a scented candle of the luxurious kind. The same sweet spiciness. Lovely scent.

The best scent ever you could find, if you love gourmand, spicy, strong perfume. BUT sadly stays on my skin for 2 hours. So dissapointing for such a gorgeous cocktail of a scents. I need stronger long lasting version.

After 14 years still one of the best fragrances. Every year is less strong and longlasting and more expensive but I just adore this spicy cumin, camphorius poetry. For me very addictive.

What can i say, this is not for a gourman lovers, this is a true perfume that only real mens will appreciet it, this what should smells like, Well done serge lutens!

I spray it into the hands before bedtime. It warms and comforts me as the man I loved would be if met. This fragrance is a living being.

"In your face" opening, "Sweet" sillage... a great night winter fragrance. 4.5/ 5

Evil Uncle Serge. Not so much noir/black in the opening as it is a big yellow-toothed snarl. Be ready for cumin. It is going to breathe down your throat like an angry, bloodied, fangs-out wolf in a secluded forest away from any help or safety. In combination with cinnamon, clove, and a sharp elemi resin, the cumin-forward opening is hot, salty, body odor sweaty, metallic, and ready to push every fear button in your amygdala. It doesn't take too long, relatively speaking, for the wolf to back off and depart but it will feel like a long time due to just how pushy and rough the opening is. Once you're alone, nothing left of the wolf but the spittle and drool it launched onto your face, the cumin is still there but much softer and woodier, allowing the warm and sweet labdanum, earthy and vanillic patchouli and tonka, incense, and woods to come through as if the forest is trying to tell you, "it's ok now, relax, it's gone." Serge Noir is going to separate perfume wearers into two camps, and you only need to read the polarized reviews of it to confirm this. In one camp will be people who want to smell good, and will thusly have neutral to poor opinions of the perfume, and in the other camp will be those who want to smell of art, who will have a solid opinion of it. It is, indeed, one of Lutens's more artistic and very pushy creations; a challenging statement in a bottle. If you want to smell good, or smell art that smells good, you will likely have to endure quite a bit until the final dry down. As a whole though, beginning to end, positive or negative, it's a very interesting piece of work that is very well put together as we'd hope and expect from Lutens and Sheldrake. You'll simply have to decide if you want to put in the effort to domesticate this wild beast or accept it for what it is and let it run free.

Yes, very strong sweet clove opening, then powdery incense, then a millisecond of cumin (I can see people's BO reference) and after about an hour, lingering for awhile with what has been a favorite scent of mine for years: "Hem Precious Chandan Incense." To me, that scent is the essence of Bali, which is why, I imagine, you could say I love this fragrance. Finally it evolves, into a scent reminder of the Spice Islands: airy cloves, cinnamon, long pepper; patchouli - but mostly sandalwood, powdery, ashy sandalwood. To me, the scent of Bali has always been a permutation of sandalwood. It's the first thing I smell in the air upon arrival and continue to smell in the balmy breezes; in my sheets and in my clothes - it's in the fabric. Smoky, ashy funeral pyres from Bali's myriad cremation ceremonies add elusive character to the tropical air redolent already with the heady sandalwood incense sticks burning everywhere. "Incense stirred by the smell of burnt wood." Serge Lutens Is that what he meant? Mr. Lutens' apparently has left up to us interpretation of what this scent evokes. His descriptions, from different publications, cryptic, lend no assistance really: that of a Phoenix, one of incense and burnt wood, and one of fabrics from fashion times past. Indonesia's national symbol is a legendary bird, the Garuda, which partially shares its lore with the Phoenix. Is this what he meant? "In the west we want answers for everything. Everything is right or wrong, or good or bad. But in the Wayang, no such final conclusions exist." (The Year of Living Dangerously) This fragrance issues no final conclusion, and remains indecipherable. And super mysterious, at every turn. I like it.

Provocative & florid reviews below of Serge Noire had me bracing for something repulsive or borderline sinister, but I'm getting none of that at all, really. I'm pretty sensitive to animalics and anything that veers into body odor territory, and the only "funk" I can suss out is coming from fiery spices. Smelling spicy BO emanating from someone's body, breathe, etc. and deeply inhaling cumin or cloves from your spice rack are two entirely different sensory experiences, and Serge Noire is firmly reminiscent of the latter to me. The dry down mellows out the sharp, metallic spiciness into something more smoky and rounded, and I can pull out some creamy sandalwood alongside a floral component from the cloves. I certainly wouldn't call Serge Noire an easy crowdpleaser or safe blind buy--there is a 'savory' quality I can see being off-putting to some-- but this is not the menacing beast reviews make it out to be imo, especially after the opening few minutes (which are a little rough, at worst). I do get the gothy impressions-- if I smelled this on someone, I'd probably assume they just finished smoking a clove cigarette, not that they haven't showered in days. Anecdotally, for what it’s worth, my non-frag head friend who wears more mass appealing scents like The Noir and Tuscan Leather sampled Serge Noire and fell in love, so you needn’t be some niche connoisseur to appreciate this.