Vitriol d’œillet

A peppery carnation with cloves and paprika The opening is so spicy but it's not too warm like Opium YSL. I can feel cloves from beginning to end and paprika makes perfume more spicy. Finally the soapy floral notes like carnation and lily make the scent softer and lighter and we have a sharp soapy floral aroma to the end. . در تولیدات سال های اخیر کمتر کاری با رایحه برجسته گل میخک میشه پیدا کرد که ویتریُل دُیِل یکی از اون هاست . عطر از ادویه هایی مثل میخک صدپر (ادویه میخک) ، فلفل سیاه، فلفل پاپریکا و جوز هندی در کنار خود گل میخک که تیزی ادویه مانند مشترکی با میخک صدپر داره تشکیل شده. مسلما تجمع این همه ادویه نتیجه ی گزنده و تیزی داره. اما ... این گزندگی با کمک روایح گلی صابونی تلطیف شده و از حرارت عطر بدینوسیله کاسته شده. پس کارهای ادویه ای سوزانی مثل اوپیوم رو تصور نکنید. . . رایحه ی عطر در شروع تند و شیرین با رگه هایی از تیزیِ نعنا ماننده اما خب نه مثل نعنا سبز و تلخ. بوییدنش در این لحظات به من حس استارت جویدن آدامس های نعنا اکالیپتوس قوی رو میده که تمام حفره های گرفته ی سرتون رو باز میکنن! این حس نتیجه ی خودنمایی بی محابا و لخت میخک صدپر در آغاز عطره که رایحش از طرفی برای من کمی حس میوه های شیرین خشک شده مثل هلو و زردالو هم داره. میخک صدپر تا پایان کار حضور شاخص داره و سایر ادویه جات هم گزندگی و معطر بودنش رو بیشتر میکنن. . . از طرفی میتونم رایحه عطر رو در شروع کار به یک سری پمادهای التیام بخش یا رنگ و اکسیدان مو تشبیه کنم. همون طور تیز و الکلی و کمی شیرین با بوی کرم/لاک مانند پلاستیکیشون. . محسوس ترین ادویه های عطر به شامه ی من میخک صدپر، پاپریکا با تندی فلفل دلمه ای مانند و شیرینش که بوییدنش مثل بوییدن خاک حس گرفتگی خفیفی رو هم در سینه ایجاد میکنه در کنار جوز هندی که اون هم شیرینی چوبی به کار القا میکنه هستن. . به مرور وقتش میرسه که ادویه های تند و سرکش در بستری نرم و لطیف از گلها آرام بگیرن و گل میخک به همراه گل هایی مثل لیلی با حس کرمی صابونیشون گزندگی رایحه رو کاهش بدن. ترکیبی که ازینجا تا آخر کار مارو همراهی میکنه. میخک صدپر، پاپریکا و عطر لطیف و صابونی گلها. . رایحه ی ویتریُل دُیل شاید برخلاف سال تولیدش گرایش به کلاسیک بودن داشته باشه. این بخاطر وجود گل میخک برجسته هست که سالهاست خیلی افتخار حضور پررنگ درعطرها رو نمیده و بعنوان یه رایحه قدیمی در اذهان ثبت شده.

Vitriol d’oeillet was released in 2011 and its name means, in English, "Vitriol of Carnation". Vitriol is the name given to sulphates, especially, to sulfuric acid. In other words, Serge Lutens wanted to portray, through this perfume, what would be the sulphate of the Carnation flower, used in the lapels of the classic visual of several men, those considered dandies. Serge defines the concept of this fragrance saying: "Take a carnation and a sufficient quantity of Cayenne pepper. Firmly drive it into the very center, using the "nails" of a clove. Before committing the final act of violence, let wallflower throw in a few punches". Vitriol d’oeillet has notes of carnations, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, pink pepper, and cayenne pepper (the name comes from Cayenne in French Guiana), also known as chilli pepper. Still brings lilies, ylang-ylang, woods, and wallflower (Erysimum). On the skin, Vitriol d’oeillet is a pleasant surprise. It has a retro air, reminiscent of the smell of violets with camphoraceous nuances. It was made for both genres, but has a more masculine aura, in my opinion. Its fragrance is distinct and innovative. In fact, I've never felt a male floral similar to this one, until the present moment. I love its nocturnal and seductive aspect. The evolution is very subtle and the fragrance remains with nuances of metallic and spicy violets, in addition to a slightly sweet base. It has good projection and lasts for hours on the skin. Those who don’t like clove-scented fragrances that remind of the medicine used by dentists, no need to worry, because the clove is not as present as the carnation in this perfume. The lovers of floral scents that have a strong smell of violets, as Hommage a L'homme (Lalique), for example, have everything to fall in love with Vitriol d’oeillet.

One of my most unique experiences. I have no idea what is that list of flowers doing in the list of notes, maybe except the wallflower which I don't know but I assume smells something like tagetes, that is, even if not correct, then at least by the principle, a basically green herbal "non-flowery" kind of profile. For example, I've smelt a "green" orchid which was more like a cut flower branch than a flower. Anyway, I have also smelt carnation, the flaming red flower and it smells sweet in its own unique way and is very good! But there's none of that here. Instead, there is another part of the name: vitriol. I only remember vitriol oil as something that was used in the past and maybe also today and I'm not sure where exactly. Possibly in machinery :) Because the smell of this scent reminds me a metallic machine that's been oiled and is working. The weirdness makes it so appealing, enjoyable. I likes some weird scents but not all. For example, this scent reminds me a very weird Ombre Vert by Tobba which was like a gothic vetiver or something like that. Then it reminds me T-Perfume's Heart Notes which is weirdness-oddity turned into a scent (that's so odd that I'm barely able to describe it). It also reminds me, though less, Montale's Vetiver des Sables but this one is the rusty version of metal(lic vetiver). Now Vitriol d'œillet is the fourth such most weird scent I have ever tried. And I love it! Must be vitriol as a scent.

My first experience with a carnation perfume was the scent of Potion body lotion by LUSH. If you know that one, you'll know that most carnation fragrances appear tame or bland next to that heavy spicy and almost medicinal cloves/ carnation concoction. I absolutely love it. What I love about carnation in general is that it has a mixture of warmth, sweetness, spiciness and just a hint of dust. It can give an old fashioned vibe to a perfume, but that is definitely not the case of Vitriol d'Oeillet. In fact, V d'O smells very modern for a carnation perfume, thanks to the heavy dose of pepper that accentuated the already spicy carnation even more, but also takes the medicinal cloves to the background. Thanks to the ylang- ylang, the perfume is never too spicy or too sharp. The banana smell of ylang- ylang takes away any sharp edges Vitriol d'Oeillet could otherwise have, and balances the whole fragrance out. I also detect some other sweet florals, the lily most dominant, and she's there to take away the dustiness of the carnation. For me, Vitriol d'Oeillet is all about the perfect balance between the spiciness and sweetness, with the carnation as the beautiful center of attention. It's a warm spicy floral perfume, perfect for fall. Very different from other carnation perfumes, because it's very soft and so very Lutens. Love!

While on the search for my perfect carnation scent, everyone in the perfume community told me more or less the same: "Oh, carnation is an outdated and difficult note''. Everything I tried lacked the real essence of carnations and offended my nose with the misrepresentation of a beautiful flower that meant so much to me. Carnations, at least those in my country, emit a velvety, spicy, aromatic scent and feel. They are soft and powdery, while a tad bit spicy -- like someone who has a strong character but expresses themselves in a soft-spoken manner. In Bulgaria, they are used as tribute flowers, mostly seen at funerals or memorial services. I never understood it, as their scent is too special to be off limits for the living. Vitriol d'oeillet is purely the most perfect carnation scent, everything I ever imagined it to be. It's powdery, milky, spicy, sweet, and velvety in all the right amounts. Another fun fact is that in Bulgarian, the word for 'carnation' and 'cloves' is the same - karamfil. Maybe this is why I've always thought one can't go without the other and I'm soo glad to see them together in what is now one of my most beloved perfumes. Sadly it's discontinued, but my destiny seems to be being a passionate chaser of extremely expensive, discontinued fragrances.

My initial take on this was rather dismal so I am so glad I tried it again. Now I love it so that I can’t believe I was sitting on this treasure. Alas, I used this in the wrong season. The season for this perfume is in that liminal space between summer and autumn. It revealed itself to me on a rainy day...which reminded me of when I fell in love with Mitsouko and the perfume opened up to me on such a similar day. If Fille de Berlin is Luten’s peppery powdered rose bomb then this is his peppery powdered carnation bomb. I have to agree with Nicronomicon that this is a confusing little number to say the least - a moody one. In certain moments I get the bombastic carnation and clove of the classic original Opium. In other moments I get something reserved and studious - in another moment it is so inviting and optimistic. I even got slight skanky indols at one point (the lily perhaps?) The vitriol is the dichotomy of these incongruities - the grandiosity, the depression, the passion, the utter self containment. I get this one. I love every mood of this one. Wear this beauty on a quiet, autumnal rainy day and see what I mean. Practical considerations - this is indeed powdery on my skin but not overbearingly so in my opinion. If that’s not your thing, be warned.

I read fragrance blogs that this would be a Powdery CARNATION fragrance... I imagined it .....to be a very modern take on the classic BELLODGIA by CARON which I love for its in your face CARNATION notes.... softened by VANILLA, MUSK and CLOVE. Boy was I pleasantly wrong. This fragrance is really spicy. !!!! PINK PEPPER... PEPPER... PIMENTO(PAPRIKA) are ingredients listed and they are the are the strongest notes that hit my nose first they then remain there tingling much the way Jalapenos peppers tingle the lips and tongue This sounds ..terrible,unless you happen to like that kind of FIERY sensation SERGE LUTENS manages to soften this fiery concotion with CARNATION FLOWERS and a hint of CLOVE The NUTMEG is a hidden note .. I could not detect. The fragrance that it brings to mind for its similar unique spiciness If i could suggest such a thing... AMBRE GRIS by BALMAIN Both are spicy......and peppery and very masculine in an upfront manner. however, Vitriol turns into a light powdery spicy fragrance which then develops into yes... a sharp woody scent and back again .... A juxtoposition of scents...I know. a most unusual feat in of itself . that in the end .. is very unisex !!! Bravo SERGE!! You won me over again....with your complexity!

It is very difficult to get the exact scent of the carnation smell, that carnation with a spicy point similar to the nail, warm without becoming axfisiante and that floral and deep nuance of the flower. And although there is essence of a carnation subspecies, it does not smell exactly the carnation that we all know, this aroma is different, so to imitate it exactly on the part of the perfumers is a very complex task. In fact, I have tried many fragrances dedicated to the aroma of the carnation and without a doubt "Vitriol" is one of the most achieved fragrances. Lutens leaves aside the spicy part, the oriental nuances and focuses throughout the evolution of the fragrance in showing us the most floral perception of the ambivalent carnation, a sublime and excellent carnation. It seems to me that for those who love the scent of the carnation, it is a must, for its quality, composition and performance. Rating: 9.1

Oh my,this is nice!! The Sephora in Toronto has started carrying the Lutens line and at Christmas I tried a few on various parts of both arms. On the way driving home I kept thinking something smells Really good on me, so I have just now returned and purchased a whole bottle. I seem to have strange body chemistry, because despite the negative reviews of this frag, on me this is heavenly! Sweet, vanilla-ish violets with a touch of carnation and pepper. I also like Lutens' Miel de Bois, which most people can't tolerate. This particular scent is not overwhelming like a great deal of Lutens perfumes, but on me it is very soft, clovey, and like a beautiful violet dream. Brings to mind fairies in a sunlit glen on a dewy morning. Sillage is moderate, but longevity is excellent, upwards of 8-10 hours. Very high quality and a keeper! 10/10

Pure carnation+cloves. A beautiful masculine spicy floral. I'm not in love with cloves but I love SL Serge Noire. I don't really like carnation as it's a prominent note of old-school fragrances (together with oakmoss, for which I don't regret the ban). But here, it is a pure work of art. Intoxicating. Projection is good in the first hour, then becomes moderate. Opens with carnation and a strong supporting nutmeg, and much later (4 hours in) slowly morphs into a Serge Noire-like cloves drydown with a hint of tobacco flower and spices. A successful modern take on an old-school note. Thank you Serge (and Chris)! Masculine, Spring/Fall days, 30+

+ Divine! Soft, powdery, cloves, spices, and carnation. I don't smell much paprika but I do detect nutmeg on subsequent wearings. Definitely unique. I like this much better than L'Artisan Oeillet Sauvage. Granted they are aspiring for totally different vibes. L'AOS is aiming for a youthful/fresh, baby-doll take on carnation whereas SL VdO is dark, mature, spicy, and wintery. I LOVE VdO! Like someone said below this perfume smells similar to Prada Infusion d'Oeillet! EDIT - My partner says this smells like a friendly grandmother. Just bought my first Serge Lutens full bottle and it is this beautiful fragrance! <3

12/13/11: I tried this at Barney's and I really like it. I was given a sample, so I am happy about that. I am not sure why the note of Carnation is not shown above, but tuberose is also a top note. The top notes are wonderful, but it's middle notes are spicy and I think conflicts with the top notes. It's bottom notes are more woodsy and the spice disappears (at least on me). I think this is a very nice fall/winter scent. It you are into blending scents, this fragrance is great with Byredo Bal D'Afrique. You will really love it. Let me know what you think.

Clove and pepper. Then some indistinct and faint flowers humming in the background. It is really about spices. I get the concept of the carnation. I even smell it but, at the end of the day, it is all about clove and pepper. Yet somehow, it is very beautiful. It has both a vintage and modern feel. Not exactly mainstream sexy, but yet... My husband is crazy about it. All in all, don't be fooled by the name's funeral and oppressive suggestiveness. It is an unusual, intriguing, yet very opinionated, warm and happy juice.

Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet (2011) - spicy carnation - This is such a calming scent created by #christophersheldrake yet full of depth. Carnations with their spicy and clove-like heart is mixed with aromatic Black and Pink pepper, Nutmeg and Cloves. This incense-like opening doesn’t smell smokey thought, but crisp and well-constructed. There are other florals I’m getting to smell, woods and white musks - but the spicy carnation is the star of the show. It reminds me of #guerlainlui which is also a favorite.

I really like this carnation based parfum. I feel a very spicy carnation. The performance, as It happens witb most serge lutens on my skin, is only moderate, but this is a very different and original perfume, i havent smelt something similar before. It has a good place on my collection because is the first carnation perfume i own. Unisex and better with warm weather. Spicy and dry floral. Scent: 8 Longevity: 8 Sillage: 6 Quality/price: 10 (i found It for 20€/50ml) Versatility: 8 Originality: 9 Global: 8.5

hey. okay. ow. ow.ouch! stop beating me with a bunch of carnations! I think its very fresh and (smash in face with full Bouquet) ahh... peppery I like it... ahh!! stop hitting me with carnations! ... cold and peppery and carnational-ly as all hell. I feel like I have walked into a florist and the sales person has pushed me head first into the fridge full of carnations and held me there. 'you like carnations huh? do you bitch?" wonderfully traumatic.

This is beautiful, an abundance of clovey, spicy carnation goodness.It lasts and is suitable for any season I feel although its approaching winter right now in good old blighty and I'm loving it. Although it's spicy and peppery I get the floral in this too, subdued violet and a wearable, non screechy lily and the carnation is gorgeous. I'm honestly turning into a right little Lutens whore ha ha really enjoying alot of his scents right now )

I never owned a fragrance with carnations, this is my first and i must shay i absolutely love this fragrance, i love metallic and creamy scents and this is just that especially in the dry down, being the blender machine that i am, i sprayed this on my left arm and then tom for oud wood on the right arm and they danced happily together and yes ofc i got compliments ☺️ but this perfume is great on its own too Overall: 9/10

Gorgeous spicey vibrant fragrance. I love spices and carnations are just divine. They are brought together beautifully in the cheerful fragrance. These are strong notes but they are softened with the sweetness of lily perhaps. I would have gone for fb but for the unfortunate soapy closing on my skin. Moderate sillage and longevity. I think Oriza L Legrands dianthus fragrance is better.

Smells almost identical to the original JF legendary Iris Gris. Wonderfully ethereal. Opens with a strong chilly violet note and warms to a close copy of Iris Gris. Breathy carnation with the merest hint of clove on my skin. The notes are supported by a lovely spicy backdrop that remains in the back and isn't overpowering. A completely unexpected delight. I am in perfume heaven.

An enveloping scent, very autumnal and a little melancholy. I have heard many fragrances by Serge Lutens, and I can say that his perfumes involve me, especially in the drydown... they are very beautiful and mysterious, Vitriol D'Oeillet is a beautiful perfume,complex but it needs some time for noted. I really like Sillage: 7.5/10 Longevity: 8.5/10 Scent: 8.5/10 Overall: 8.5/10

Vitriol d'Oeillet is an enigma for me. It is viciously green carnation that doesn't let me relax. When I tried wearing it during warm weather - it kept me jittery with a tinge of anxiety. Carnations should not be a "green" scent, yet it is. I'm putting it away until colder weather. Maybe it will warm up and give me some quiet energy instead.

I'm baffled by the reviews. "Clove"? "Spicy"? "Salami"? How do I access these bizarre interpretations? Vitriol d’œillet smells like violets to me. I love violets. Perhaps the spicy notes are being overpowered by the Ylang Ylang, a note I find impossible to see around. An hour or two later—carrot. Then, nothing.

Ohhh this is good! Spicy, sharp and red smelling with a fresh green aura, it’s crazy! A bit 80’s chic to me too, but probably because the clove is reminiscent of Coco. So basically a super hard chic femme circa ‘85 stabbing someone with a fresh carnation.

Alluring walk towards the dentist) Its happy spicy medicinal, with very peppery carnation and very clovy wallflower. This guy knows how to make fun even in most unpleasant situations, optimistic and charismatic, good for him! Very likeable fragrance.

Omg I have just received this and it smells so amazing, so well rounded, a bit pungent but gorgeous nonetheless. I can smell the carnation and pepper and the clove...so so beautiful, it makes me happy. A new favorite from SL.

This is deep in your soul amazing. Spicy carnation, spicy pepper, spicy spices! With this beautiful lightly soapy lily aura of awesome. It sounds so weird, but it is beautiful, delightful, and gives me all the happy smells.

Smells like perfume from another era. This gothic spicy carnation is one of the best creations signed by Serge Lutens. I can imagine Oscar Wilde wearing this.

Carnation and clove are the last notes that remain on the skin, really interesting cocktail of ingredients. Reminds me of soap... Need it!

Perfect carnation: I'm not even a big florals fan, but this is one bloom I'd happily wear all over ("carnation - it's not just for buttonholes!"), and at any time. One of the better Lutens floral scents IMO, which finds a really original and harmonious way to mesh flowery and spice notes together without letting them clash. Overall it's very much cooler, fresher and greener than you might expect from looking at the pictures above. In the beginning I almost thought I was smelling something else altogether, because at first burst it's a powerfully fresh, green, sappy, almost watery sort of thing - incredibly true-to-life sense impression of the wet ends of cut carnation stems just pulled out from a vase, or a florist's fridge. Couple of hours in and there's a slightly awkward soapy phase as the flower notes (lily and the waxier smell of the carnation's leaves) rise and expand and then begin to fall - but it's brief. And from then on in things get warmer, drier, woodier and spicier throughout, with the pimento and pepper and nutmeg swelling to the fore, until it's morphed into what's effectively a gentle Oriental with some floral accents. This drydown stage is my favourite part, but I've never experienced anything before which unfolds in this order - usually pepper's the first to hit you in the nose and then die away, so I have no idea how SL worked this magic and managed to make time run in reverse, in terms of scent at least. Really good example of a non-linear scent which evolves strikingly from one kind of fragrance to another. I don't know many people who would specifically say they really want to smell like carnations (rather than any other flower); maybe a lot of people just take them for granted; carnations are a sort of plain-jane 'workaday' bloom without the glamour of the rose or the exoticism of ylang. But it's a mistake to underrate them, or to assume this scent will just be middle-of-the-road. It may have unfortunate associations for those with strong, bad memories of funerals in France (where carnations are used heavily) or Oxford examinations (where it's traditional to wear carnations.) But luckily I don't have any of those traumas to exorcise, so this one is just a pleasant, quirky, intriguing, rather beautiful thing for me. Wiki tells me that "light red carnations represent admiration, while dark red denote deep love and affection" and I think I might well feel both for this lovely scent. Sillage is not gigantic, but it's definitely there; longevity not bad at all (8h+). It's pretty sweet, but not too femme for any male who feels adoration for carnation to wear.

This should have been named Schizophrenia of the Carnation (that sounds familiar...I may not be the first person to say that...shout out to whomever said it first). I dabbed this on yesterday morning and immediately smelled a very spicy rose scent (I'm going to say that is the carnation) which quickly morphed into cloves...not the bitter dense cloves from the cupboard, but more of a clove with sweetness underneath, almost like a clove cigarette but without the smokiness. Love it. A while later, maybe an hour, I could smell the carnation coming forward again, in a bed of something white...ahh this is the soapy rose scent that people talk about. Not a fan. Oh well. Two hours later, I couldn't smell it anymore. Disappointing! Since it was already gone I decided it wasn't long-lasting, put in the sprayer, and this time sprayed my wrists, my chest, and my lower back. Huh. Where are the cloves? Now I get spicy floral...maybe that's a hint of clove underneath. A while later the soapy floral is back...this time a different flower but I can't pinpoint what it is. Ok, just floral. A couple hours later I still have moody florals peeking up but it's only a skin scent. The parts of my shirt that caught the spray still smell like a soapy flower. I don't like soapy flower smells I've decided. So, I spray my wrists only. I want clove, damnit. Ahh...rewarded. Here are the cloves, though less prominent that the first wearing. That was early afternoon yesterday. For the rest of the day and yesterday evening, this manic frag jumped from note to note to note, so quickly my wrist would smell different every time I caught a whiff of my wrists, or every time I'd put my nose to my skin. Why did I think this was short-lived? The soapy rose kept coming around, but so quickly did her mood change that it was gone too quickly to bother me. This (very very early) morning, 12 hours after the final spritz on my wrists, I can still smell a faint spiciness on my skin. When I duck my head into my shirt, I can still smell faint spiciness wafting up from my chest. So I guess the key to co-habitation with this pixie is this - if you don't like the way it smells the first time, wait a couple of hours and try again, because you will get something different. I realize this review is all over the place, but then again, so is this frag. I don't know if it is love, but it is a solid like and a baffled respect.

Well I never!!! Got some Serge Lutens samples (hot off the press so to speak) from my new friend at the perfume counter. It makes a lot of sense to be charming and flirtatious with these ladies and you get loads of free stuff! haha Anyway...I thought when I quickly looked through them initially that this was the violet one...Bois des violettes? I think that's the one? I was familiar anyway and as such left it until now to try. Turns out it was Vitriol d oelliet and I was excited to try a new Serge Lutens but my heart sank when I learned of the dominant carnation note. I often think to myself that I don't know a great deal about florals or identifying floral notes but as it happens I know quite a few. Carnation is one that I can instantly picture in my minds eye or rather my minds nose! It can easily turn sour easily so i wasn't holding out much hope for this one. You know what though? I found myself really enjoying it, what a great combination. This is precisely what I think of when the term 'Floriental' is banded about this is a great example. The florals are strong in the opening but just as it's about to turn into a right off the attack of entire spice rack hits you. Not to imply that it's harsh because it isn't and you get a bit of everything at different times. It's constantly tiptoeing between the two, then teetering on the edge...then back again...It's a beautiful dance. It certainly changes in the drydown but somehow retains its character, I feel the base might be a little sandlewood and cedar although they're not listed here so maybe not? This is the kind of fragrance that makes me feel like a proper fragrance head because something tells me I shouldn't like it... but I do because it's very interesting indeed. Totally unisex and actually quite masculine on me, huge longevity I mean up there with some pure perfume. This is great and a masculine floral I would wear.

There's something about this that attracts me... perhaps it's the use of carnation (which is unusual in today's perfumery). That alone is enough to pique my interest, as I love carnations, and feel that they are underutilized in perfumery. What I get when I experience this perfume, however, is something of a study in contrasts. First, it wants to be a spicy carnation, with hints of clove and pepper. Then, it wants to be a waxy, pollen-laden white lily in full bloom. (It's not quite a funereal lily, as I experienced in Demeter's Funeral Home; rather, this is a lily *before* its journey to the funeral home -- full of hope and promise, not knowing its eventual destination.) I fully appreciate both phases. Both the carnation and the lily are fresh flowers... recently picked. However... on my skin, it's unpredictable. I'm not quite sure whether the carnation or the lily will shine at any given moment. (When I'm alone, that's fine, and I don't care... but it's something to consider if I'm planning to wear this in public and/or hoping to achieve a specific goal with my fragrance.) There is something in the name -- the idea of an "angry carnation" -- that appeals to me on a visceral level. An angry, under-appreciated carnation, fighting for its place in the perfume world? Yes, indeed, I can picture that. I can root for the underdog. The drydown, on me, is quiet and beautiful -- not quite lily, not quite carnation, but something in-between. It's a study in contrasts, and I find myself enjoying every moment of it...

57th Love the opening but then it quickly becomes kind of weak... It’s ethereal, close to the skin, fresh, tangy, gently fruity, light clove, some other spices and touch of sweetness. I also get a cosmetic smell mingling within, maybe lotion, maybe shampoo. I wish it was stronger all around, because I like it a lot. But I sprayed 2.5-ml of my decant on a tank top and went from wow to quickly disappointing, fading fast into a synthetic-like smell. Smelled great and longest in my hair. It’s along the lines of Carnation Ineke and Sweet William Carner Barcelona yet with its own twist, while these two I find weak too and also more dry, tart, without sweetness. I am also reminded a little bit of a very watered down Fendi Asja in some aspects, maybe similar fruit and spice vibe. It's a descent carnation interpretation just for its uniqueness. I am not completely sure on this one yet, as I hate the idea of soaking clothing with it so that it actually projects more, but I do like its composition. This should be called an EDT or cologne. 7.5/10

Supposedly this is a “fierce” take on the gentle carnation, but let’s be real, carnation is a soft scent, and there’s nothing wrong with that. Vitriol d'Oeillet is all carnation, all the way through, with a lovely monochrome palette of peach-and-rust ranging from lotion-y delicacy to spicy sparkle. It does feel crisper and more modern than century-old carnation classics like Bellodgia (which has a very old-fashioned heavy aldehydic top note). There are subtly overlapping facets – a touch of warm nutmeg, a whiff of the realistically cloves-like spicy scent of real stock flowers – and an overall soft creaminess from ylang-ylang. Carnation scents are still criminally underrated. Carnation’s subtle warmth makes it perfect for unisex, gently spiced, “my skin but better” personal auras – perfume for people who don’t like screechy “perfumeyness”. Vitriol d'Oeillet is my favorite thus far. Not much vitriol to be found here, but plenty of finesse.

I'm quite enjoying all the hot pepper in this. There is a sort of carnation, or the idea of a carnation (as another poster describes it - carnation on steroids!). This could be good for snowy, icy days as it's quite nose tickling. At the same time there's a clean feel that would be quite reviving in a hot climate - I'm imagining sight-seeing in a hot city. For me the strongest spice note is black pepper followed closely by clove, this blends with the ylang ylang and lily to create a sweet, soapy hot perfume, odd as that sounds. It reminds me of a Crabtree and Evelyn triple milled luxury soap that's had the volume turned up to 11. I do detect carnation underlying the spice, it feels like an oily note somehow and add adds a calm base. It calms down to a warm spicy soap then fades out completely after a few hours as there doesn't seem to be any resin, wood or musk to give it more longevity

Lo avevo comprato a dicembre del 2011 e cel'ho ancora. Ricordo che evocava una sensazione di gas che intossica la gola,un'esperimento tra gli alambicco che esce dal vetro e ti soffoca,poi ti trasforma in mister hide... Dopo di che le immagini che mi suggeriva era un cimitero abbandonato nella nebbia,un treno fantasma, fiori da morto abbandonati tra le grate di una tomba,senso di grigio e nebbia. Poi ho pensato anche che assomiglia a un altro profumo che avevo negli anni 90 ed era lilith di cahallagan. Solita nota piccante iniziale e poi fiori.. Mah, tanti profumi sono copie di cose già sentite,la nicchia è famosa per fare queste cose. Lutens mi piaceva molto fino a 10 anni fa. Poi ha deciso di omologarsi al ciarpame dozzinale che c'è in giro e allora l'ho abbandonato.

This a very interesting perfume. Quite different from the carnation note perfumes of old.. But still quite not what I expected. It is at heart a spicy perfume, I get predominantly cloves with a surprising note of nutmeg and pink pepper, and just some carnation and wallflower to anchor it. I get a strong surprising note of banana which is probably the ylang-ylang at the start, but there is almost an impression of banana chewing gum for a bit. If you love cloves, this has a wonderful drydown. If you are looking for a fresh flower like scent, this is not it (but try Oeillet Sauvage instead).

Serge Lutens' Vitriol d’œillet: A beautifully delicate and refined addition to Lutens; this is a soft spoken, effervescent, and balanced floriental in every sense of the word. Right out of the gate, carnation and ylang ylang hits you like a wall, along with pink pepper, all of which last the entire life of the scent. I really enjoy carnation and this is one of my favorites, just because of the tension between spice and floral. Towards the end of the drydown the clove bubbles to the top and gives a little more foundation to the overall composition. Overall: 7.8/10

The top notes are clearly dominated by richly textured carnation and clove. The peppers are prominent supporting notes. The lily, also notable, creates a dramatic contrast with the prickly spices and carnation, giving it a tender, translucent, smooth undertone. The layers in this composition contrast and balance in a way that I had never before encountered when I discovered this fascinating scent. It is a strong like– a fine bit of art indeed– though it elicits compliments and confusion from others in equal measure.

Nutmeg, Camphorous Lily, and Cloves, with a backing of powdery musk and something syrupy that reads aquatic to my nose. The musk in this reminds me of Narciso white cube, quite assertive and thick. Reads unisex as it balances these varied ingredients well. Sprayed this before bed and could still smell it as a skin scent the next morning, so excellent performance. Does the carnation note resemble the way real carnations smell? Because this doesn't remind me of those flowers at all, I just get tons of Lily.

A cool, intense violet; hints of powder and blueberry (a cool colored berry). Sweet. Even though it's cool there's a vanilla note in there. Little old lady wearing powder and violet perfume. Very interesting fragrance - there's something that almost itches the nose (the pepper?), slightly off-putting but unusual and fascinating. Dries down to soft, spicy powder - it warms up a touch but still on the cool side. Long lasting but in about 2 hours fades until only detectable on being very close to the wrist.

Oh my! I immediately fall in love with this scent. The opening is what I would say a Serge Lutens spice DNA and I love it so much. Bombs of clove and peppers with soft powdery floral scent, so well-blended and light (compairing to most spicy perfumes out there). The scent turns more powdery after an hour or two, but the spice is still detectable in the background. The sillage is poor on my skin but that’s why it’s so charming. You have to come close to find the mystery in it.

Sometimes I feel like this is just okay and sometimes I like it. It is cold metallic Serge DNA. On first wearing I said modern spicy oriental. Then I wore more and would say the top is sharp with something like licorice or anise. When it dries down there is a spicy carnation (not as wonderful as vintage fragrances) with a slight powder as if there is some violet there. This is very soft and close. Not a powerhouse. Not worth the price at retail.

I almost cried when I first smelled it, no exaggeration. It's so unearthly pure, somehow. Not clean, not fresh, not anything identifiable even. Like a deep well of cool alien liquid, alive, and then someone drops a single clove into it. I'm pretty sure this is one of those inexplicable personal things, but this scent just feels like all the most important, private memories replayed at once; like an epiphany.

I must be the only one who thinks this is masc-of-center. To me it feels cologney. A bit Old Spice-y with a sophisticated barbershop feel-- it's vintage. Darker, too, and sexy. Sillage is more intimate. After a few hours it lightens up into a bit more feminine purple haze -- sensual, sophisticated patchouli under sweet spices and smoky incense-- and I'm into it, even though I'm normally not into patchouli.

First of all it's a creamy cold fragrance to me, reminding me the smell of white plombière, not sweet but extra rounded, soft and complex. No specific note protrudes from the composition, it's sober, sophisticated, distancing. It definitely has old Lutens vibe, so fans would not be disappointed. It's not ground breaking or extra original, just beautiful quality perfume.

The notes above don't begin to describe the depth of this fragrance. The initial note is iris. When it dries, I inhale and I am in an exotic place, perusing antique books lined up on mahogany bookshelves, my lips sticky with mango juice, my mouth remembering smoked chili and spice- cooled by the breathing herb garden just outside the window.

I also got my free sample this morning and promptly tried :) Nice flowery/spicy scent! The opening is more masculine for me, but then it turns into powdery spicy unisex clove. When it dries down it becomes confortable and soapy. It is a linear frag and you can smell the clove and pepper notes from the beginning until the end.

in my opinion, this is the summer Lutens! very bright and perky like the sunbeam of summer days. imagine colorful paprika and chili peppers surrounded by exotic flowers! the color of orange or yellow would be more suitable than smokey violet. If La Fille de Berlin is for winter, this is the opposite one.