L'Extrait de Spoturno 1921

Emeraude come back to life but a softer version. It funny that the extract is softer but the lemon is toned down just a bit and the florals are amped up just a touch but it smells very similar to the eau de Parfum. They are exact twins but with very very subtle differences that only those close to them can see or here I should say smell. I agree this is not Shalimar. No way. This is my beloved Emeraude come back to life.

Review based on the extrait version (when they were offering samples of the extrait). A wonderful floral-oriental creation. Spicy-ambery-citrusy, a bit green. It feels really like something special and exquisite. Tonka, musks, labdanum, benzoin... Worth trying out if ever get the chance ! One of the very few creations that i've tried this year that blown me away ! Well done C.Sheldrake ! On my wishlist now.

Some folks are comparing 1921 to Shalimar, and honestly the only place I get that is the opening. The citrus has that same vintage glow for the first few minutes. After that, 1921 turns into its own thing. It’s brighter, softer, and much more citrus-floral than anything animalic. The jasmine, ylang, and rose stay light and smooth, and the base is a warm mix of tonka, vanilla, and myrrh. Beautiful, easy to wear, and very refined. My only issue is longevity. I don’t usually care about that, but for an extrait at this price, it disappears quicker than I’d like. Still, it’s a gorgeous scent with a lovely vintage vibe, just more of a soft whisper than a powerhouse.

Maybe they should have called this perfume Lazarus. Spoturno and Sheldrake rolled away the stone at the tomb of this Francois Coti composition, and commanded that it come out and live once again. Did they succeed? Yes, Emeraude lives on, but this isn’t a glorious resurrection, more like the walking dead. On my left arm and hand is the EdP, and on the right is the extrait. They're both virtually the same, and they are basically Shalimar. Couple notable exceptions: 1) the herbal notes at the top, which are more pronounced in the extrait than the EdP. I guess this part is more like Habit Rouge than Shalimar. 2) The dose of ylang-ylang in the heart adds a tropical and citrusy sprinkle to standard florals (but that's an old trick too. Name the perfume.) The powdery and tissue-paper bergamot at the top; Guerlain. The abstract white and pink floral middle stitched together with a dry woody amber base; Guerlain. Additionally, unlike Shalimar or Habit Rouge, the 1921 duo lack richness and depth. The extrait I've reapplied twice today, and at 7pm it's barely detectable. Unacceptable for an extrait that costs more than $600 (as of today). The EdP actually seems to have relatively more oomph and life. Lazarus is alive, but only if your definition of the word is loose. I'm not impressed, but do I like it? Yes, of course. How can you not. It’s a winning formula. Where it arguably is better at being Guerlain than Shalimar/Habit Rouge is with a lightness that is really very nice, but it comes at the cost of richness, depth, and longevity. So, now I've tried all five of the initial Spoturno perfumes, the EdP and the extrait of 1921, Alphee, Barbicaja, and L'Ame du Phenix. That's four strikes, with Phenix being the only one I've worn that I am happy and impressed with. Call it a new maison finding their identity, if you will, but if their identity is using a unique voice like Sheldrake to rehash 100-year-old recipes done much better by others at significantly cheaper prices, what are they making except for museum pieces? Museum pieces aren’t in your home, little alone on your skin.

Not Shalimar, stop saying that, this is Emeraude, it reminds me of the scent strips in the magazines, this is spectacular, if i were a woman this would be mine.