Juriah

To truly understand Sultan Pasha's Juriah, you need some experiences in rose, oud combination that is easily found in Middle Eastern countries. rose, oud combination gain its popularity from western countries around a decade ago and gave birth to well-received blends like Roja Dove's Amber Aoud, Francis Kurkjian's Oud Satin Mood. Due to the oud's peculiar animalic notes that perfumers usually accentuate, these "oud" fragrances were love or hate for many people. for that reason, lightly interpreted blends like Tom Ford's Oud Wood were appealed to broader audiences. Sultan Pasha, the nose behind Juriah and the house's founder described Juriah as his magnum opus dedicated to the quintessential of all Arabic mukhallats(blended perfume oils also called as "attar" in today's world). Sultan Pasha utilizes a tiny amount of synthetics to increase the projection and longevity of his oils and most of the contents in the bottles are natural ingredients. what I'm very impressed with while smelling his oils is how he massively increased projection and longevity keeping natural perfume's subtle liveliness. this is one of the most distinctive qualities that I found while smelling his creations. and for that reason, his oils smell subtle, yet powerful in deliverance. There is one more characteristic to Juriah. Unlike western perfume's top, middle, base transition, Juriah's scent stays quite linear because it's followed the structure of traditional Arabic mukhallat. Here's what my nose gets from Juriah. suede-like soft cow leather that is drying under warm sunshine, lush rose bushes and sparse wildflowers, mimosa that gives a sense of relaxation. the revitalizing scent of lemon. sweet plums, blueberries, and apricots in the reeds basket that emit their pleasant sweetness. In my opinion, Juriah can be divided into three groups. First, taif rose, mimosa, cambodian oud, damascena rose, chrysanthemums express floral, citrusy, fruity characteristics. Second, hindi oud, leather, siam benzoin, amber express heaviness, warmth, soft texture. Third, musk, ambergris rifts a whole composition then adds subtle softness and multidimensionality. Among many ingredients used in Juriah, Taif rose, Cambodian oud, Hindi oud is worth talking more about. First, Taif rose. I wish there were more Taif rose in Juriah but it's upfront and showcases its vibrant, citrusy characteristics. Second, Cambodian oud, unlike over fermented, over squeezed Cambodian oud that is easy to found in the market, the Cambodian oud in Juriah has high-quality Cambodian oud's clear, drooling scent of plums and purple fruits. Third, Hindi oud, well-made Hindi oud that is not overly fermented, not overtly animalic is harder to find than Cambodian oud. the Hindi oud in Juriah feels traditionally distilled but perfectly fermented without being too animalic. it just has the right amount of animalicness and that makes the scent of worn soft leather and a hint of raspberry fruitness. Juriah made me feel how rose, oud combination was like in the old days were like. due to the strong presence of oud and strong Middle Eastern vibe, it won't appeal to general audiences, but if you are into this genre, I think you won't be able to better blends than Juriah in today's world. The projection and longevity of Juriah are monstrous, I only used the tip of a toothpick amount to test smelling and it lasted more than 10 hours. you will "very" most likely can't use 1ml of this oil in a year. Thank you for reading this long geeky review. like always, keep smelling and be fragrant.

I'm frankly surprised that previous reviews seem to mention little about chrysanthemum. I've had a lot chrysanthemum tea growing up so I notice the smell as soon as I dab on my sample. The flower has an herbal and somewhat medicinal scent similar to chamomile and is not used lot in French/western perfumery (save the elusive De Profundis by Serge Lutens), nor is it found widely in Middle Eastern mukhallat as far as I know. But in Juriah the scent of chrysanthemum is quite pronounced. It has a herbaceous and musty quality that blends well with the brightness and tartness of the Ta'ifi rose. Interestingly, Juriah does share that lemon candy note with Turath, while projecting a lot less and surprisingly less sweet than Chypre Chrysanthemum (that's 2 SPA blends featuring chrysanthmum already!).

Sultan Pasha is definitely a DJ. Im smelling this composition like listening Dj set, where you see smooth transitions between songs / ingredients, one is fading in to the other and its still have consistent aura of music genre. This one is pink dj set playing in dark room. Dont know how to explain in other terms, but this one is really good. I found some words: one part of it smells like new wooden cabin, its not woody scent, but it have this kind of aroma of clean, natural rose with woody accord.

Complex rose oud. Wonderful floral and musky flourishes support the 2 central players: rose and oud. The rose dominates, subduing the excesses of the the rougher substances. To my Western nose this calls to mind a beautiful empowered woman; regal. I also get a feeling of love as a power. The perfume feels embracing and comforting. I haven't smelled many attars to compare with others of the genre. Ingredients smell high quality, minimal reliance on aromachemicals, and beautiful composition.

There’s something about the opening that reminds me SOOO much of, very specifically, Moroccan oil-cured black olives. I can’t seem to shake it. After sitting with it for a while, it seems a lot more complex than I had initially expected. I think the Taif Rose, Oud combo, Ambergris, Chrysanthemum, and Osmanthus are the main culprits. It’s like they’re working together to form this strange phantom accord: Damascones/damascenones from the rose, pruny/leathery facets of Cambodian Oud, slightly lower inclusion of Indian oud (smoky leather/fermented barnyard accent), oily/salty animalic warmth from the ambergris, earthy/herbal notes from the chrysanthemum (like others have noted below), and the lactonic/leathery undertones of osmanthus. The perfect storm really. It only lasts for a few minutes after application, but makes a big impression nonetheless. Im curious to hear if anyone else has noticed this. A bit strange at first but after multiple returns, I’ve decided it’s absolutely gorgeous.