21 L’Air du Jardin Caché

When I first discovered Tauer Perfumes in 2014, I swooned over their brilliant effervescence, eliciting a rare sort of smile from me. What Andy had done with his materials captivated me, filling them with air and electricity: in a word: fizz. This jolted me – familiar things were renewed, turned idiosyncratic while speaking to the universal. I am not the only person who noticed this, and talk of this signature ‘Tauerade’ denoted this unique quality, which draws out the fizz unique to certain spices, florals, and resins, against a bass-heavy wood chord that shades all of this. By my estimation, this is a core blend of labdanum, Firmenich’s Ambrox DL – elegant, dry, warm, woody, dusty – and irones/ionones for floral, fruity, and powdery tones. This signature accord is tension itself: grounded and aerial; a charge and release reaction. Placed within the architecture of a perfume, the Tauerade exaggerates in a curious fashion: it draws a scent away from its natural sense – perhaps somewhat dangerously close to the relentless, unbudging presence of certain synthetics – only to then launch it, bestowing it with extension and vitality. The dose certainly makes the poison, though Andy has consistently demonstrated deftness and good sense. In this fitting release for his 21st year, L'Air du Jardin Caché returns that same smile to my face. Heady and sharp green hyacinth is given to the Tauerade. And, ultimately, it is as simple as that. This hyacinth note is flecked with violets and made melodious with tender, softening rose, then nuanced with crisp greens, including geranium and muguet materials. While the classicism of hyacinth is unmistakable, as if it were pre-built into its aroma, the Tauerade exalts and stylises while preserving the key aspects of its character. My mind goes to Warhol’s Pop Art, where the familiar world is intensified with a controlled riot of colour, returning brighter than what was before. Tauer is all too happy to redouble this classical sense with a soaring overhead light of ebullient aldehydes, finished with a thread of dry spices, and a patchwork of amber-warmed musks that equally sparkle as much as they pad and absorb – all so happily aligned with the Tauerade. Most importantly, its floral character – its spirit – is preserved. Commonly considered a springtime floral, the hyacinth in Jardin Caché is not vernal, nor is it coded or aligned with, say, the usual ideas around seasonality. It is outside all of these conditionals, meticulously proportioned and beautiful according to codes both classical and modern. To repeat, it is not strictly filled with air – as is the image attached to carefree 1970s florals – but glorious fizz, and this makes it all the more vivid, sincere, and delightfully more than merely natural. This is Tauer at his very best.

This fragrance follows the tradition old perfumes beautifully. An homage to Chanel no. 5 in my opinion. A bright aldehyde top note, fresh and soapy, morphs into a big beautiful rose and hyacinth heart. The aldehydes never truly fade until suddenly aldehydes and florals are gone and I’m left with a musky woody base. Gorgeous and truly elegant, however not my style of perfume. Definitely worth a sniff though.

I guess Andy regretted discontinuing Noontide Petals? Because they smell REALLY similar. Noontide is maybe creamier and maybe this one is a tad more hairy and sparkling, but they are really really close. I don't think it's worth a buy if you already have Noontide, as I do, but I am really glad to know that I have an alternative once that little jewel is finished, because I really really like this perfume. Quite an unusual blend of sparkling but heavier aldehydes with a very creamy (but not in a lactonic way) base.

A bright opening of flowers and incense but the flowers dominate as opposed to L’air du desert Marocain. It’s really well constructed by a master perfumer. There’s rose and violet and a slight aquatic element as it dries down and the base is beautifully blended incense, benzoin, woods and ambroxan. It’s a no from me as I’m a bit tired of the incense vibe and prefer to go back to the classics, the French florals and the sweeter but fresher chypre’s of the last century.

A more palatable Chanel no. 5. Very aldehydic but modern and wearable. Reminds me of Iris Poudre but I enjoy that one more. 7/10

Another new one from Andy! Ordering a sample now!