Mogra

Today: testing Mogra by Teone Reinthal 14Aug2017 I'll be honest - not a fan of natural perfumes with their thick, syrupy and often indistinct mish-mash of notes. However, I've always been prepared to be won over, one day, and Teone may just have done it. With this fougère, Teone presents jasmine in a way you may not have smelled it before. Sweet, yes, but heady? Not so much. Here the mogra flower (jasmine sambac) is rendered cool and refreshing. The composition is clear and bright, punctuated with Ylang Ylang to enhance the tropical elegance of the jasmine. The aromatic and salty notes in Teone's composition are like a fresh breeze blowing off the ocean - Bulgarian lavender, bourbon geranium and oakmoss. The base notes of ambrette, tonka (hand-tinctured by Teone!), WA sandalwood and orris root are really very good indeed. A smooth, satiny soft carpet running underneath the other notes. Yes, there is an initial but very brief "syrup" effect on application, simply because the naturals collide before they warm on skin, but then the magic happens and is continuing to happen 4 hours later with quite the sillage - and still going strong. If I had to compare this to a commercial perfume, it would be the much-loved vintage formulation of Azzaro pour Homme and that is definitely a compliment. ApH is a majestic jasmine and orris-scented fougère on a grand scale. Thanks Teone for this wonderful gift to the nose. FBW for sure!

Beware. This is a great natural perfume brand. There are some trolls who’ve been voting down all of Teone’s fragrances. Ignore the “dislike” ratings as they seem to have been placed by people who don’t understand the difference between natural and synth/natural perfumery.

Start harsh, strong citrus giant of a bourbon geranium and jasmine. Ambretta, bean, lavender ... I get a flavor of tea / chamomile from a retró atmosphere. Woody, exotic oudy, fresh oak moss, vetiver bitter. Bubbly, sparkling, the first hours of medicine with a sweet floral scent, relaxing. I do not love and appreciate fougerie just some notes that are here, but this is masterfully executed, niche, stylish and comfortable to wear. Across get vibrations that I lead back to Monsieur Oud Ensaroud with a sweet finish dry, dusty sandals and a little more ... vintage. Enjoy!

The opening is quite glorious with rich moss, jasmine & a citrusy top—more like a chypre than fougère, then the other notes (led by lavender) emerge to remind us that it was supposed to be a fougère...It all eventually becomes just a little too bitter for me though 🥲

Mogra is a very generous bouquet of jasmine on a sensual walk through the cool shade of sandalwoods, freshened with fields of lavender and sweet Tonka bean, anchored in the earthy shadows of vetiver and soft oak moss. The Arabian jasmine carries this scent, beginning light, persisting sweetly to the end as it becomes warm and earthy. I got to know iMogra during the cooler months, when it adds a cosy glow to a winter's day. If it's raining and cold outside, the erotic warmth of jasmine whispers from a bottle of Mogra, summer's garden beckons, and all is well with the world. The sun will return, and when it does the lighter airier notes that open this fragrance are more noticeable. A scent totally suitable for men and for women; for everyday, and for special treasured moments, it is subtly balanced, harmonious and wonderful.