Bruma

Bruma by Maison Trudon (100 ml., USD 90, ) Refresh note 2 (Nov 12, 2024) I split Burma today again. This is Leathery-Woody Green Orris/Vetiver scent. assist with soft make up undertone. Yeah, still a modern woody chypre. Soft labdanum undertone. Kind of Orris root situation. But also, sweet and buttery. I think Antonie Lie try replica ambient of sweet green rooty iris here with twist of make up. The outcome is good It is nice fragrance but.. might be.. Too tame(?). I feel like this wise scent but Library wise. All muted cream, brown or white. It is not world-wise(?) but still calm. Kind of everyday, everywhere scent. Like really calm but shy of the world. ... The scent is now dried down and I found this is end with vetiver and labdanum. Old-money powdery clean scent. It seems borrow some core idea with Vol de Nuit by Guerlain by its earthy rooty green orris. I don’t think this is can so-called true iris scent but it is Iris green(?). Like, when you sniff orris centric scent like Irisss or L’iris or 28 La Pausa there is pretty much “greeness” that close to natural idea of iris. Bruma amp up the green but its Galbanum green so it has agrestic undertone. I like it nonetheless, peaceful even slight too reserved. Well Trudon is Candle company anyway. I compare with all my powdery scent (comete, touche finale, Violet Blonde, Putan des Pres, orris noir) while Bruma have unique property on it own (being Vetiver) I am not so sure will I actually keep wearing This.. It is not femme as the rest, yet it is not spicy enough to be good spicy-chypre, this is medicore fragrance. Like the one when you kind of not so sure what would you like to wear, a hybrid makeup powdery / woody labdanum scent. While it twisting genre. I don’t know that you really need one. When you wanna feel natural go with more vetiver centric parfum while I wear powdery, go full route on cute one. I think I really have no room left for Burma. Drop from sssetment. ===== Refreshing Note (Jun 4, 2024) I just own a bottle of Feminin Pluriel. I think I kinda understand now. That Bruma, is actually Floral-Chypre. And yes it is vintage (even actually, it is quite modern). The structure is similar. If 31 Rue Cambon can by modern chypre then Bruma is also Chypre. ===== First Impression, I love Bruma by Maison Trudon as this is introduce to me by my respectfully friend in the community. This can describe as perfect unisex scent, for those who love sophisticate scent. This scent remotely Reminds me of Iris Malikhân by Maison Crivelli but it is not as sweet and not leathery. Not as Rooty but the rendition is similar, sort of in the same vein. The scent blast you with white peppery kind of spicy for a minute before it is transform in to Galbanum realm. It thought it was gonna be sort of vintage rendition of a minute before the scent turn another way. Iris and Violet, introduced. In this Iris are more in powdery side but still somewhat Rooty. But the violet is beautiful here, this is violet in Leather aspect, work sort of secret sophisticate jacket. It is not so much fume like (La Violette), or candy like (Misia), it is show up very minimally. The mid also backed up by Floral scent a bit. The base is deepening the fragrance significantly, dry-vetiver and little sweetness by Tonka. With drop of smoky Labdanum. it is the scent that nothing really crazy. But it is beautifully rendition for Green Iris / Violet lover. Sure, it is slightly expensive for what the scent is offer. But at the price I get, I can't complain. it is beautiful. Score 8/10 as first impression. Longevity : TBA Projection : Intimate Classification : Unisex (somewhat Femme leaning) Short description : Green Iris with Violet in Leather aspect, sort of vintage but contemporary.

I recently came upon Cire Trudon perfumes and decided to try a few. I faithfully follow The Perfume Guy on YouTube and he raved about several of the newest fragrances. I respect Jonathan's opinion, so I was excited to try Bruma. After purchasing a few generous samples of different Trudon perfumes, here's my review of Bruma. Bruma is a truly beautiful perfume that opens with a distinct spicy peppery blast. Within a few minutes, gorgeous faint floral notes of iris, violet, lavender and peony emerge in an ethereal powdery cloud. Within 15 minutes lovely, warm tonka blends with the steady but faint floral notes, Not as animalic or smoky as I hoped, the entire fragrance opens and blends in a seamless and overall pleasant manner. Undoubtedly, the ingredients and notes are super-high quality. Nothing approaches artificial, cloying or synthetic in any way. This perfume is a lovely, mature and quality wear. And FWIW, Bruma is an extremely feminine potion. My problem with the perfume is entirely the silage and longevity. I sprayed a rather generous sample on my skin several days in a row. Each day, I had an impossible time smelling, or noticing the fragrance. On me, Bruma wore so light, I could hardly tell I had freshly applied the perfume. And overall, I found longevity low, lasting perhaps 3 hours on my skin. Bruma is a lovely, beautiful fragrance. Bruma is ethereal, feminine and light. Yet with all its positives, I don't think I could justify buying Bruma at its current price point. For me, Bruma lacks a real "presence" because from start-to-finish, I could barely detect I was wearing any fragrance...and neither could the few people around me. I'll give Bruma a few more tries. I guess I prefer my fragrances to be a bit bolder and present...not LOUD but definitely in the room and worthy of the asking price. And given the hefty tag on so many of these recent "niche" perfumes, including the Cire Trudon perfumes, I'm not sure Bruma is full bottle worthy.

Pretty iris/violet with other supporting florals, sweetened by tonka and labdanum. A bit cosmetic-y smelling. It's low projection and pretty soft. Like a much softer, sheerer version of Byredo 1996, or maybe it reminds me of Misia? Haven't smelled Misia in a while. I guess the point is it smells familiar. Pretty but not a wow. UPDATE: After testing it again with a good dousing on skin, I’ve changed my mind about Bruma. It’s more complex than I initially thought, though still understated and polished. Initially, there is a rooty, almost vegetal iris, with a green peppery aspect that makes it a bit piquant. Still retains a bit of that waxy lipstick thing but the earthier notes keep it pulled more towards a unisex composition, though it’s probably the most traditionally feminine smelling of the collection. I really like it. The longevity for me is about 4-5 hours after which it’s very faint.

Bruma means "fog" in Portuguese, and is the perfect name for this dry, gray, soft iris suede. The shape shifting that happens here is in moving from conventionally masculine to softer and more conventionally feminine, but overall quite unisex. It wears very close to the skin, with minimal sillage. This is perfect for those quiet, contemplative moments indoors with a book and a fire, or for environments when something any louder would be inappropriate, such as the office, or a professional setting. It's actually one of the nicest iris EDPs I've encountered, but not a statement frag. The tonka in the drydown is soft and lovely.

After a short & dry opening a la Hiris (Hermes), this buttery but still powdery iris-violette evolves into a very elegant suede iris somewhat in between Hermes Cuir d'Ange and Boucheron's Iris de Syracuse, with a very present Peony and a slight oriental twist due to Labdanum, exotic facet enforced by a transient but quite nice Galbanum evocative of Vol de Nuit. Not much to add to StellaDyverFlynn's excellent review here ... a real pleasure to wear for Iris lovers, more original than the reviews here seem to say.

Instant love. Starts out smelling somewhere between Hiris and Iris Silver Mist but sweet and less rooty, with the peony giving it a rosy peachiness. The iris falls into the background where it plays wonderfully with vetiver and tonka bean. That’s where it stays, a mildly rooty and mildly sweet vanillic iris. Nothing new or groundbreaking but very pretty. French, effortless, chic. In the drydown when skin warms up the peony shows up and it's just absolutely pretty with the iris that one can't help but smile.

I love iris and discovering a new one is always a pleasure. I can smell all the aspects of the iris, flower, stem, leafs and root. Not too earthy, carroty or challenging. Not very original, but it doesn't have to be if it's done right. There is a resemblance with Iris Syracuse, but this one has a lovely drydown. Smooth, pleasant and comfortable. Gracious.

Beautifully presented iris in its perfumerist’s best floral bouquet with tiny bit of vetiver. A safe buy for iris lovers, calm and sensual.

there is a darkness lurking in the background even from the beginning, but never takes over. like a handsome guy with an evil dark side

Bitter green foliage and violets under the moonlight

On my skin, Bruma is a flowing harmony of iris, violet and suede. It opens with mildly carrot-like and starchy, but mostly waxy iris, and slightly tart fruity ionone reminiscent of violet. If I sniff closely, there is also a discreet green pepperiness mixed within. Occasionally, I also get brief impressions of waxy lipsticks, but nothing overtly powdery. The fragrance doesn't have any dramatic change, but moves from one phase to another in incremental steps. The waxy texture of iris is gradually replaced by a abstract, supple suede. There's just a tiny trace of hay to enhance the animalic tenderness of suede. I suspect that there might be something similar to heliotropine as well, because the whole effect of musky violet-suede is reminiscent of a heftier dry down of Hermès Cuir d'Ange to my nose. Just as I thought Bruma would remain this plush violet-suede, the nutty aspect of vetiver makes an unexpected appearance and adds a bit of grit in this otherwise elegant suede, which is a welcoming twist to Bruma. Bruma has a soft sillage and lasts about 8 hours on my skin. Although Bruma is hardly innovative as a polished floral suede, it's solidly made with its little twist of nutty vetiver, and far from being banal. Its lack of dramatic change might fail to leave a strong initial impression, but its smoothness and fluidity would make it a refined yet versatile fragrance in various settings. I'd definitely recommend it to fans of elegant iris-violet-suede fragrances, especially if you favour a more abstract, effortless style.

This one opens with a blast of galbanum, supported by a powdery iris. Then, the galbanum disappears to leave the lead to a powdery iris, supported by sweet florals. In the base , the iris tones down a bit, and co-stars with tonka, supported by a hint of labdanum. This one is VERY close to Ulrich Lang Lightscape (especially in the top and heart). Probably because of the strong tonka note, in the drydown it becomes very similar to Miller Harris Etui Noir. Again a very refined creation by Trudon. I love the scent, but like for other creations of this house, I feel that the $210 price tag is not fully justified given the poor performance and non-uniqueness. Because of that I would recommend UL Lightscape over this one (which retails for ~$50 on ebay), and will have to downgrade my vote to just a like until it appears at discounters. Will gladly enjoy my travel spray while it lasts, but will not go for a full bottle afterwards. Totally unisex, Spring days, women 20+, men 30+

Bruma is flamboyant floral fragrance. At first peppery and strongly saturated with lavender and violets. Then iris and jasmine turns fragrance into powdery. Although there is no musk or ambra in composition, base notes smell to me animalistic. Warm because of vetiver and heavy, sensual. The perfume starts with almost sweet girly notes but definitely ends with matured, vamp. The transformation is stunning and I have to say I am enjoying it very much. This is splendid perfume for nights. Seductive, absolute and perfectly matched. Sillage is stronger than moderate but not loud. Longevity about 2-3hrs.

Buttery iris-violet, pepper and peachy peony – icy and abstract – the opening is almost vegetal before the iris fades and the top becomes a diaphanous floral bouquet tinged slightly green. Bruma becomes gently warm as it evolves; vetiver’s ever evolving dusty and smoky characteristics move to the fore before tonka bean lends a hay-like sweetness. There is an elegant powderiness too, clean and pale. Bruma is beautiful and contemporary, if unassuming. Sits very close to the skin, with moderate longevity. 6.5/10

Quite a green violet-iris scent with a dusty element in the background... In the middle part (which is the part I like best) is a sweet violet-iris combo that really works well, but it's lacking in any base at all; it's all top, and unfortunately it comes across as incomplete... I do like this one, truth be told, but it's not entirely for me...

THe reviews are little bit misleading This have nothing common with FM iris and with Boucheron iris This is different iris, vetiver , smokey .. It is like you are close to elegant lady with iris perfume who drunk alcohol and smoekd cigarette in her leather/seude gloves It is very soft elegant nice classic scent

You may as well just be holding a bunch of Iris - would recommend if that is what you're after. Flowery, powdery and definitely feminine, it would really suit a much older wearer. Maybe I'd riff it for a bright and fresh daytime adventure: an early Devonshire Tea or fancy luncheon.

I love the green-smelling galbanum that opens the fragrance and then the exquisite powdery iris appears later. This fragrance is refined and understated. It doesn't announce. Swoon worthy really. . .Yet it's fleeting, only lasting a couple of hours. fbw at the 100usd mark. unisex.

OK this one is interesting; the opening is so distinctly a lovely earthy iris, but quickly the heart becomes violet and labdanum (almost similar to Black Saffron or Dedcool 03). Love this opening; like the heart.

An airy, flowery and animalic perfume. It is sweet yet dusty and intriguing. It reminds me a bit of Purple Oud by Dior, though way softer. It would probably appeal more to older, elegant women with confidence.