NO ± Suede

If, like me, you have a penchant for modern stuff, Suede by Uermi is anything but novel. It's basically a safraleine bomb with a thin woody balsamic base. It has been done, and with better results, by several other *modern / avant-garde* niche lines before. Etat Libre D'Orange did something similar with their Tom Of Finland (by the same perfumer, BTW) which feels in comparison more complex, less rushed and more pleasantly *perfumey*. Comme Des Garcons, on the other hand, opted for a truly avant-garde iteration of the saffron-leather combo with their EDP 2011 (the one in the melted bottle) which, as for today, it's still one of the most creative use of this aromachemical. In the end, Suede it's neither fish nor fowl and it falls in a gray area in which it doesn't accomplish a status either as an avant-garde composition or a safer one. It's just plain modern dullness. A minor note on the packaging: The overall apothecary vibe of the label and box, makes it look like a cheaper version of LeLabo. Rating: 5/10

A minimalist suede perfume. It opens with a blast of saffron, complete with its metallic, slightly medicinal edge but within an hour, it quickly transitions to a skin scent of lightly smokey incense, soft suede and gaiac. Long discontinued (it no longer appears on the brand’s website), I’m happy to own a rare bottle. It’ll be perfect for the fall.

نمونه ای از ظرافت و اصلاح نژاد 1740 ایستواغ با هنر خالص ----------- Scent & Qualiy: 9/10 Longevity: 8/10 Sillage: 7/10 Creativity & Uniqueness: 9/10 Affordability: 7/10 ----------- Overall: 8/10