Dreamer The Original Edition

The Dreamer by Versace has for the longest time eluded me. The scent has always reminded me of something I could never quite put my finger on, Clouded and veiled it teased my memories and laughed at my stumbling block that kept me from finding the key which would open me up to The Dreamer. In the past when I would spray it on my skin it smelled so familiar and I would smile and enjoy it but still not connect in that way that makes a fragrance special to me. That all changed today. This morning I pulled my gorgeous bottle of The Dreamer out of the back of the line up in my fragrance cabinet and looked at it. It really is very beautiful with the embossed Versace Medusa with its clever gold and black cap that you don’t remove but simply press down on to spray the clear juice. Looking like an eau de cologne bottle from the toilet of a long forgotten nineteenth century Sicilian Prince. Who are you Dreamer? Why can’t I decide if I like you or not? What is your mystery? I sprayed it on a tester strip, waved it under my nose and boom! It all came together. I made my first trip to Rome in 1999, three years after The Dreamer was introduced. And smelling it on paper, not my skin I recognized that this was the smell of Rome in the last year of the 20th Century. Everyone that year must have been wearing Dreamer. It permeated the Via Veneto and the lobby of the Excelsior Hotel. It was in the museums and cafes and on the bus to Pompeii or the train Florence. During my first week in Rome the smell of The Dreamer entered my memories and then somehow got buried. I understand it now and I have fallen in love with this fragrance because it takes me back to Rome and it feels like home. The Dreamer opens with a dry lavender blast that finds warmth in mandarin orange notes and a dusting of Clary sage. It recalls the mix of smells one encounters in the Campo de’ Fiori in Rome around one in the afternoon when the morning odors of fruits mingle with the heated afternoon scent of herbs and flowers. In the heart of the fragrance you find an interesting mix of those Campo de’ Fiori flowers, and something extra in the rose and carnation, and germanium permeated by a smooth rich tobacco. It reminds me of those wonderful tobacconists shops in Rome where you go in to buy your bus tickets and you smell the rich aroma of boozy un-smoked pipe tobacco mixing with old woods and the perfume of the man behind the counter. This middle is really warm and cozy like a classic 1980’s man’s fragrance in the best possible way a man’s fragrance can be. Up from the bottom notes comes the note that most connects me to Rome and that is the fir note which is so reminiscent of the beautiful umbrella pines in the city. Redolent with green resin and wonderfully bright and sharp this note dominates the fragrance from the late middle though the dry down. There is a touch of Tonka bean which is ever so light like the cream on the top of a morning cappuccino. Vetiver and Cedar round down the notes and it all seems like a lazy summers dream under the afternoon sky in Rome. The longevity of The Dreamer is as immense as the Roman Empire. After twelve hours on my skin is still quite decernable and projects extremely well at about six feet for the first three to four hours. It is to be applied with a light finger or you might find you are overpowering as you pass the innocent bystander. I am so happy I didn’t give this bottle away when I first purchased it. The beauty of the bottle kept it in my cabinet. The Dreamer by Versace proved to me that not all fragrances are love at first sniff but given time and the willingness to revisit them you might just find the lost key to your dreams. THE DREAMER 5 GOLD STARS ***** (For the entire review and Charlie Finn's story about Dreaming in Rome, check out my fragrance blog Scents Memory)

... the lovers, the dreamers, and me... Oddly enough, I've little recollection of this release back in '96, despite having been an avid VERSACE "fan". Not that I could afford to wear any of his clothes, of course, but a pair of sunglasses, a couple fragrances, a scarf... and all those brilliant, expansive photo shoot layouts of impossibly beautiful, lithe & tawny people in magazines, cut out & plastered on my bedroom walls suited me just fine. The dream of La Dolce Vita -- or should I say La Versace Vita -- was mesmerising and inspiring. A dream of the stars. ...When Gianni was murdered that following July, (23 years next week) there was so much "scandal" & horror attached, it seemed impossible to reconcile. How could the maestro who gave us those luxe, voluptuous, potently free & stunningly beautiful dreams be taken from us in such an abhorrent & senseless manner? How could one so golden be gone so soon? Yet somehow, thinking this gem was Gianni's final olfactive offering seems somewhat Romantically apropos. 'The Dreamer' is the opposite of all the ghastly savagery & shocking pain in how a visionary left this sordid world for the stars. A dreamer's dreamy adieu. It wasn't until the Autumn of '98 that I had a bottle of 'The Dreamer' for myself. Wearing it out at weekends, after work on dates and the like, I thought it wonderfully seductive... and as though a bit of that magic, Milky Way, seductive charm was somehow a part of me. Though apparently a rather polarising perfume, I reckoned it always just felt "right". But we were young then, and full of dreams. Now, 22 years on, I've had the great luck to stumble upon a 1996 batch code bottle for a song. Pure, potent nostalgia. Just as I recall it, I'm instantly transported to a heady, hedonistic, & buoyant time... you'll say it's a cliché but yes, somehow "simpler", too... and we partied 'cause it was 1999. Gianni's demise had been an inspiration to live more alive and all the world seemed... bright. ... Well, the intervening years of the new millennium weren't quite the dream we dreamed they'd be, but for a moment it seemed perhaps maybe the magic power of a starry night was all we needed. And as I close my eyes inhaling 'The Dreamer' again, I can't help but believe it. All these years I've never seemed to come across a definitive pyramid of notes, but several of these are generally included in some order or another across a half-dozen versions: > Juniper, Artemisia, Tarragon, Lavender, Mandarin Orange, Sage > Iris/Orris, Lily, Flax, Geranium, Rose, Tobacco flower, Carnation > Cedarwood, Patchouli, Amber, Leather, Vetiver, Tonka bean, Fir All of which sounds brilliant to me, and I'd love to believe it's all in there, though I couldn't say for sure what is what. Now, I do get lilies! (And dare say it's one of the big differences with the reformulation.) I do get a touch of artemisia & of iris. I definitely get the tobacco blossom. And an overall powdery, woodiness. But otherwise I can't quite put my finger on it all... like waking from a vague but pleasant, misty dream... and falling back asleep again. Definitely no "harsh & horrible" opening that some speak of, luckily. And this may seem odd, but I find I quite like it in warm weather... there's a certain coolness within... all silvery blue velvety, mind. Good old 90's sillage and fantastic hours of longevity even from this 24 year old, beautifully designed bottle! Yes, sir. Grazie mille, Gianni! Cheers for all the dreams. RIP. ★★★☆☆

The Dreamer is basically Gianni Versace's second, and unfortunately last signature scent. It's very close in basic structure to Versace L'Homme from a decade earlier and I'm surprised not to see anyone making the same connection in a quick look over the reviews here. There's a floral and tobacco aspect, a dose of clary sage with some wormwood and lavender, some tonka sweetness over a gingery cinnamon accord, all in the same vein. Of course there are differences too. Dreamer is heaver on the tobacco than L'homme, which had a subtler background effect of pipe or cigar smoke. Dreamer also lacks the leather accord which needed a bit of a 90's update I suppose. The similarities are certainly there though. Dreamer opens with a strong clary sage and lavender accord which will get younger noses thinking "pissy". It's warranted I suppose, some people like clary and others can't stomach it. The tobacco in concert can sometimes smell like a cigarette butt in a urinal, but that tonka and subtle mandarin note keep it from being too intense. The tobacco is the star here and the surrounding powdery iris and carnation give it a boost to keep it going throughout. The good news is that as challenging and polarizing as it can be, it does seem to do well smelled from a distance. Dreamer I feel is like an oil painting. Getting too close will let you see some interesting detail, but you miss the forest for the trees. It's one of my top fragrances in unsolicited female comments (women could easily wear this) and my wife's absolute favorite in my collection. It's certainly doing something right. The Dreamer is one of those cool nights walking through nature by yourself or with someone dear to you. You look up at the stars in the sky, open a fresh pack of cigarettes, and almost feel like you're inhaling the cosmos itself after lighting up. I don't smoke anymore, but it's nice to have that memory in a bottle. It's something inspirational. Something idealistic. Something dreamy.

Dreamer The Original Edition, an Amber Fougere fragrance for men, was a captivating olfactory journey that left an enduring impression. Launched in 1996 and crafted by the skilled nose of Jean-Pierre Bethouart, this fragrance wove a tale of sophistication and masculinity. Drawing inspiration from a harmonious blend of notes, it created a symphony that echoed through time. At the forefront, the top notes of Lavender, Sage, and Mandarin Orange unfolded a fresh and aromatic prelude. The combination was a burst of invigorating scents, setting the stage for the distinctive experience that Dreamer The Original Edition had to offer. The initial impression was a dance of herbal and citrusy notes, creating a bright and enticing atmosphere. Venturing into the heart of the fragrance, a rich interplay of Tobacco, Rose, Carnation, and Geranium emerged. Here, the composition deepened, revealing layers of complexity and refinement. The warm and floral tones added depth to the fragrance, creating a balance between the bold and the elegant. It was a blend that spoke of timeless sophistication. As the fragrance settled into its foundation, the base notes of Tonka Bean, Fir, Vetiver, and Cedar anchored Dreamer The Original Edition in a captivating and lasting embrace. These elements contributed to the overall allure, leaving a trail that was both comforting and enticing. The combination of earthy and woody tones in the base notes enhanced the fragrance's depth, creating a memorable and lingering effect. For those who appreciated the unique charm of Dreamer The Original Edition, it might have evoked memories of Lavandula by Penhaligon's, another discontinued fragrance. Both fragrances, in their own distinct ways, were a testament to the artistry of perfumery, leaving behind a legacy that continues to resonate with those who experienced their unique and alluring scents.

The Dreamer is a unique and special fragrance. So unique that even the tobacco is different from what you would be used to. It's a tobacco flower based scent. Also, it's the last creation under the direction of Gianni Versace shortly before is assassination. Another thing that is kinda mysterious is the note breakdown. You'll get a different note breakdown in every website. To me, Dreamer starts out very sour and synthetic. But not in a bad way. It's like in a mysterious way. And ends up very alluring, floral, sweet and masculine. I remember the first time I smelled this one. I hated the opening. It was so strange. But after 10min I like it. I ended up buying a bottle. After 3 years I can say that I love this. It's definitely unique and dreamy. Talking about the scent: I smell a herbal-aromatic note (Tarragon and Juniper) at the start that reminds me of lavender. It's harsh but vicious. After 10min the tobacco flower starts to appear along with other flowers (iris and lily) although it's not powdery neither feminine. After 1h the coumarin joins the game and the scent turns more sweet, alluring but still kind of floral. This stage will be the ending one. The dream is over but not until the 10-12 hour mark. This one has great performance and strong projection in the first 2 hours. Also, it performs greatly on clothes. They will smell of The Dreamer for weeks! At this point, I don't know if this it's still in production but you can find it easily online and on many stores. My advice? Grab a bottle now. It's very cheap (20-30€/100ml) and it's a fantastic scent. A true masterpiece. And the bottle is probably my favorite of all time!