Emery

I've owned most of the Xerjoff Exclusives at one point or another (Begum, Aubres, Emery, Symphonium, Wabar, Jebel, Alexandria Orientale, Alexandria Imperiale, Via Cavour 1, La Capitale, and even the extremely limited Encensoir) but none of them have grown on me like Emery. I've sold my bottle of this twice and recently purchased a third bottle. It is completely different from what I usually wear, it absolutely leans feminine, and (for whatever reason) it just absolutely, positively does it for me. I mainly get a very sharp, pink rose and a heady geranium supported by a squeaky clean musk and the lightest hints of vetiver and vanilla for depth. I do not get the wood notes listed (which would certainly carry this back into unisex or masculine territory). This result of this combination is something I can only compare to a high priced rose soap that you would find in the bathware section of your local luxury self care store. It's not something you would expect to smell on a bald, bearded, heavily tattooed 30 year old man but damn it, it makes me feel boujee and beautiful. The only thing that is remotely close in my collection would be Creed's Royal Mayfair if you sharpened the rose note to 10 and replaced the camphorous eucalyptus note with geranium. Performance is excellent all the way around, and in my opinion this fragrance begs to be worn on mild Spring days. I carry an extreme bias, and I fully acknowledge that your experience may greatly differ from mine, but I would rate this fragrance 10/10.

Emery, my treasured discovery of 2013 and I just had to have it. I read previous review and there are a couple of points worth correcting. The glass with alcohol represents rum which is listed as a note, and it can be detected in Emery, albeit even so slightly. But this is the case with most notes in this scent, all, apart from rose and geranium. Or at least this is what my nose keeps telling me. I would definitely say this is not a soliflore rose. It’s too rich, dynamic and complex to be called a soliflore. For me, and for years now I’ve been puzzled by this scent, it’s like a lemony, but somehow warm, marriage of rose and geranium, placed on a bed of everything else that’s listed as notes in this perfume. When it comes to oud for example, I’d say only that citrusy, ‘high’, as my brain perceives it, aspect of it, can be detected. And I only realised that after recently purchasing Bornikoff’s Triad. Once all ‘introductory’ smellines of oud in Triad is gone, this is what’s left. Here, it’s only that aspect. I instantly fell in love with Emery, and it’s still one of my favourite fragrances. It’s stays on the skin for hours, 10-12 plus and I can smell it. Not sure if available worldwide now, when I got it, it was only available at Fortnum&Mason for £375. High price, but imho worth it.

This rose and white floral bouquet is nothing short of incredible! In the opening, the rose is very lifelike, and wet, like freshly picked roses with droplets of morning dew still on the petals. This, combined with the clean jasmine takes you to a very serene place, like a spring garden in full bloom tenderly kissed by the morning sun. The vetiver makes an appearance into about 15-20 minutes from the first pray as does musk and the very faintest touch of sweetness from vanilla. I get no guaiac wood nor oud at all here, although the notes breakdown indicates they are there. Indeed the strength and longevity of Emery might well be anchored on those hefty notes, although the whole thing is blended so well so as to give the rose and other floral notes the absolute center stage throughout the fragrance’s longevity. All in all an amazing fragrance, a must buy if visiting London and shopping at Fortnum & Mason, where Emery is a store exclusive.

The following are the notes from wikiparfum: Rose (Bulgaria) Musk Pink Pepper Rose Ylang-ylang Jasmine (Egypt) Oud / Agarwood Amyris Bergamot Ciste Labdanum Clove Coriander Curcuma (Turmeric) Geranium Guaiac Wood Jatamansi / Spikenard Lavender Rum Vanilla Sandalwood (Mysore) This is overall a highly sophisticated unisex spicy rose scent that lasts the whole day through and into the next morning. It's a pity it doesn't have a wider distribution. Fortnum's doesn't ship perfumes overseas which means you need to travel to London to purchase this beauty.

Based on an old bottle I bought ten years ago, there isn't oud here, just citrus (close to lemon peel), very delicate pink rose and green of geranium. A bit fresh spicy, and almost not sweet. Graceful. Sillage is strong.