Yohji Yamamoto
I'm Not Going to Disturb You Homme

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Acordes dominantes
- âmbar
- especiado fresco
- floral branco
- aromático
- especiado quente
- herbal
Pirâmide olfativa
Coração
A personalidade do perfume, por algumas horas.
Fundo
O rastro que fica na pele até o fim do dia.
Como ele se comporta
Fixação, projeção e ocasião — votos da comunidade internacional somados aos daqui.
Gênero
5 votos
Quando usar
- Inverno: 6 votos
- Primavera: 4 votos
- Verão: 0 votos
- Outono: 5 votos
- Dia: 4 votos
- Noite: 5 votos
Onde encontrar
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Impressões da comunidade internacional
Traduções chegam aos poucos — textos em inglês por enquanto.
- em inglês
Smells like a less sweet, richer version of YSL La Nuit with tobacco. Like if La Nuit grew up and wore a suit. Highly recommend, safe blind buy, good performance.
- em inglês
If CK One Shock Men and Bentley for Men had a baby, it would be this fragrance. Leathery, boozy notes combined with cherry tobacco
- em inglês
It's a perfect unisex! Warm, spicy, sweet Loving it!
- em inglês
Wow! If this isn't an under-appreciated little gem, I don't know what is. Yohji Yamamoto released this in 2017 without even the slightest whisper. Or perhaps there were whispers, at the time, but due to its very late entrance into the US market, those whispers quickly grew impatient, soon turning into forgetful silence. Up until recently, IANGTDYH was only available to US and Canadian residents via eBay, at fairly hefty prices. With large bottles costing over $95 (plus overseas shipping) and small bottles coming in around $70--75, most people weren't willing to take a chance on a blind buy from a brand that's been relatively unknown and unimpressive since releasing its 1999 masterpiece, Yohji Homme. So it's understandable that this one slipped through the cracks and under the radars and noses of many in the fragrance community. Furthermore, it's possible some were turned away by the name, which immediately implies a fleeting, unobtrusive skin scent. This is definitely not that, as it has both solid projection and longevity, and even more importantly, brings something a little exciting and opulent to the table. I Am Not smells very much like a spicy, masculine rose fragrance. However in this case the rose is purportedly 'tobacco flower,' a sweet floral approximating jasmine. Had this not been listed in its official pyramid, I would have taken the note to be rose, as it's both dark and red, and in this case, marked by a sweet, fragrant characteristic. The rose (or tobacco flower) is embellished and modified by various supporting notes, most evidently myrrh. I've found that some varieties of myrrh have a spicy, kind-of-bubbly and almost-carbonated quality to them. Vanillic varieties sometimes remind me of cream soda, and the more earthy/resinous types can recall sassafras and its role in sparkling root beer soft-drinks. Here, its spicy-bubbly qualities are present again, this time giving the dark, fragrant rose a fizzy-spicy buzz, a vibration that pulls it away from its more feminine powdery pastel dimension and into something decidedly more masculine, vibrant, and virile. It's similar to the way the spiced-rum accord works in Nasommato's Baraonda, in which case the rose is made less traditional and more modernly macho by its boozy, spicy presence. Coincidentally, Baraonda is one of just a few rose fragrances I have found wearable and enjoyable. I Am Not Going to Disturb You is another. It's also important to mention the role of pepper here as well. Pepper, while being a part of the dark spice family, can also infuse a fragrance with a sort of uplifting freshness, almost like a certain frequency that it adds to the composition that can keep it from plodding along or feeling too heavy or thick. To that effect it works well here, and while IANGTDYH is kind of a dark, spicy rose, it has a nice buoyancy that keeps it afloat, abuzz with energy. What I've described above is the fragrance's opening act, its first couple of hours. The transitions in this fragrance are gradual, but distinct, which I think it is the sign of a good composition. It develops and goes through real changes, but the segues and evolutions are smooth and seem like the natural progression of things. I Am Not's second stage of development affirms its masculinity as it takes on something of a bitter-green fougere-like quality. Both Artemisia and Oakmoss become apparent, and they emerge just as the rose starts to settle in. It's an interesting crossroads, but at the same time it is almost seamless. It's like a trick that if you weren't watching it would slip right past you. Suddenly, IANGTDY has gone from a spicy, oriental rose to an astringent green fougere. And it's right in this happy medium that the heart of the composition rests. The opening act remains, though much more subdued at this point, and it is now blended with the traditional bitter-green, mildly soapy qualities of artemisia and oakmoss. Around it all, the myrrh persists, lending the fragrance its unique texture. It would be unfair to label the heart at this point with a few simple words, as it's all of the elements discussed above working in harmony. The important thing to know is that all the parts are there, and they create a smell that is both pleasantly balanced and somewhat unique. The third and final stage of this composition begins to occur around the 5 hour mark. This is where a well-placed and comforting amber accord enters the picture and gives everything a nice place to rest. The mid's bitter-greens fade first, losing their edge in place of something rounder and softer. Hints of vanilla come into play, suggesting that this a fragrance that will have something of an intimate, cozy conclusion, as opposed to something stern or cold. I Am Not opened romantically and it will end this way, albeit in a softer and easier manner. The amber that's used here sits in the middle of the spectrum for the most part, as it is neither an exceptionally white, powdery and clean amber, or the dirtier, more animalic and dark variety. It's just a touch resinous, has a soft, sweet quality to it, and is slightly powdery. It's smooth and cloud-like as it should be. It's in this final stage of amber that the fragrance concludes. Shadows of its other phases remain, their traces coloring the amber and holding I Am Not Going To Disturb You Homme's personality in place as it slowly closes out. By hour 7 it's all come to rest, residing as a quiet scent that projects just a few inches off the skin. This release came as a surprise to me. It's very skillfully crafted--balanced harmoniously and deftly blended so that the transitions occur both seamlessly and naturally. The emergence of oakmoss and artemesia in the mid are unexpected, but they give the fragrance a needed leafy-green astringency that keeps the spicy rose in check. This is a scent that can definitely be worn casually, but is probably even better suited for dressy, semi-formal occasions as the rose and its more traditional, green-fougere elements give it a bit of an elegant, stylish appeal. Overall, the composition feels crisp and modern, well-polished and deftly crafted. For these reasons, as well as it's fairly unique angle among the modern market, I Am Not Going To Disturb You Homme gets a very solid 8.5/10 rating and is recommended for sampling. SIDE NOTE: It's probably not right to completely praise a fragrance without mentioning any of its caveats. So with that in mind, the one area I can see some guys having trouble with this fragrance concerns notions of masculinity and femininity. If you're a masculine traditionalist, this fragrance might not work for you. Rose is not a traditionally masculine note, at least in the United States, so you have to get past that first. Though this is a darker, spicy rose, it's still a rose (or tobacco flower, whatever you want to call it). Secondly, the final stage of the base is probably the most "feminine" stage of the fragrance. Amber, because it's kind of powdery, sweet, and soft, can be interpreted as 'less-than-manly' and when it's colored by the rose that preceded it, it can seem even less. I interpret this stage as a very elegant, dapper transition, but I can see how it could be taken another way. So these are the areas I would consider the "trappings" of this fragrance--where it veers off the masculine spectrum and into feminine territory-- and it may be where some decide that they don't like it. At the same time, this is also part of what makes this fragrance so good, and it wouldn't be what it is without it. Final rating: 8/10 If you are a fan of rose fragrances, you should definitely try this.
- em inglês
Well, I don't care about the name. This is gorgeous! This is a beautiful warm/spicy, thick and deep, well balanced sweet unisex scent IMO suitable for fall and winter. Both, day and night but it would feel better for evenings. It also has some gourmandish qualities but it's not a pure gourmand. Dominant notes are tobacco flower, myrrh, suede, vanilla, amber and osmanthus (it's not in the note pyramid though). The bergamot is not so vivid neither plays big role. Artemisia is also noticeable. The moss is very weak, personally I don't get old school vibe from it, if it contains any moss at all. I also get traces of almondy cocoa, tiny traces of dryed apricot which may be an effect from osmanthus and a short lived cherry vibe. Performance. The longevity is somewhere between 6.5-7.5 hours. The sillage is heavy for the first hour than it becomes moderate but dies quickly to a beautiful skin scent with a few inches projection, maybe 3-4, until the end. Similarities. You may like it if you already love Ideal Guerlain especially the dry down of the edp version. This Yohji has exactly the same brightness with Ideal Parfum. Let's name it Ideal Parfum Intense. DG pour homme on steroids. If you find it weak with limited sillage, you may like this Yohji which is thicker and stronger in terms of sillage and projection. Tobacco plays big role in this composition. Eisenberg Le Peche, it has the same sweet musky osmanthus note at the dry down. There are also common elements or vibe with Memories The Gate Fragrances Paris, Carner El Born and TF black orchid, Tuscan leather, let's say something like 5%-10% not more. Overal it's a beautiful scent worthing a FB. It sells for 138 usd the 100 ml and 93 usd for 50 ml here. I find it quite expensive for a Yohji scent, I'll wait until the Xmas offers. EDIT On paper it has completely different feeling! Something like a good smelling heavy shower gel. Try it on your skin. I thought it was gone but as a skin scent it lives up to almost 13 hours among with Sauvage Cool Spray. I sprayed my hands, I washed them 2-3 times through the day, I took a shower and I can still smell them clearly on my hands both of them! Skin scents but they exist +13 hours later and still counting. I must try it again!
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