Nu

Carnal, like intertwined bodies, in a realm of pleasure, in union and delight of being desired. Mystical as the twilight that hides the most lustful secrets, where mysteries are conceived, and we voluntarily lose ourselves in the freedom of be ourselves. Luminous, such as love, in the comfort of being who you are, and knowing you are loved. On my skin, Nu comes alive in an explosion of pepper, accompanied by a scalding bergamot. Gradually it launches the top notes into deeper waters... cardamom emerges, with its spicy aromatic aspect, followed by incense, creating a smoky green chord. Continuing to a highly carnal heart, with the blossoming of white flowers, where the orchid and jasmine make everything more lustful. At this point the musk gently permeates the entire fragrance. Nu becomes increasingly languid and woody, due to the presence of sandalwood and vetiver, the latter contributing even more to the smoky aspect of the fragrance. This fragrant frenzy persists for a long time, projecting more at first, leaving a large trail. Created in 2001, the structure of this perfume is oriental and evokes a timeless, almost futuristic era, also represented by its bottle, with its minimalist design, typical of the vibe of the beginning of the millennium. On the outside metallic, cylindrical, on the inside, a deep cobaltic blue. This combination is perfectly cohesive with the concept of its soft and modern essence, yet mysterious and striking. The presentation is also very coherent: the unique bottle, inside a transparent smoked plastic box. Nu is uncovered, but at the same time hermetic. Simple but enigmatic, just like a naked body is something discovered, albeit full of mysteries. Nu reflects the minimalist fashion of his own period, but ends up going against the tide. His eroticism is sober, refined and essentially intellectual, transforming his natural charm and distinction into a real power of attraction. A modern oriental, woody, spicy and incense floral, but above all, smooth, thanks to the mastery of its perfumer, Jacques Cavallier, and the briefing of its mentor, Tom Ford. Its aura also reminds me of YSL's “le smoking” fashion, a hybridism of male and female aspects, creating an androgynous, sensual and elegant fragrance. It is in this aspect that Nu establishes a completely shareable fragrance, just like a tuxedo. Even the typography of his name contextualizes this egalitarian and dualistic aspect: “nu” is written in lowercase letters, where one is exactly the opposite of the other. Nu is about being pure and sinful, sincere and mysterious, dark and radiant, modern and primal, feminine and masculine. Ethereal and carnal beauty, dirty and transparent, perfectly contextualized and never excessive. A sacred and profane elixir. A purifying perfume, led by the incense, which since ancient times is used to elevate the spirit, symbolizing the link between earth and heaven, between the carnal and divine. Pleasure is a space to giving in. Nu is my olfactory signature, and wearing it is my act of surrender. Without nu, I feel naked. With nu, I find my self.

Nu is one of those perfumes that was criminally underrated and under appreciated at its release and for quite some time afterwards. Part of this had to do with the absurd packaging. It’s atrocious. It has that greatest and ubiquitous of French traits in something newly developed and unproven: it doesn’t work. This is one of the most dodgy atomizers I’ve ever used - and that goes for all three bottles I have owned - and it is extremely awkward in the hand. I don’t really care about that. I will work my fingers to the bone and my brain into a headache if that’s what it takes to get to the juice. The silvery bergamot, cardamom, and neroli opening is blinding, the glint of a knife edge from polished steel thanks to the bitter sourness of the bergamot, cold and hard resinous woody aroma from the cardamom, and the metallic, bitter orange floral of the neroli. In the heart... white orchid. What a laugh. I grow orchids. It doesn’t smell like any orchid I’ve ever smelled and, more to the point, there are hundreds of orchids that can be white and just as many that have unique smells. Is this supposed to be a cattleya? Brassavola? Oncidium? Call this a masculine, carnation-leaning and indolic jasmine, generic white floral accord and be done with it. That’s an aside, because the stellar base of Nu is what this perfume is all about. The base augments the heart quite quickly, fortunately, and the two together give us one of the most beautiful floral and spicy Orientals created this century. Balsams, labdanum, spices, and incense present an airy and weightless yet rich and intoxicating brew that is endlessly addictive. Here’s a second reason why Nu probably didn’t initially do well, which is that it was - and was again in the rerelease - marketed as a feminine perfume. It isn’t. It is perfectly unisex. A man can easily wear this, and yet it would be striking on a woman as well. My how wayward YSL has gone with its perfumes in the last couple of decades. This is a true reminder that the brand gave us some amazing perfumes yesteryear, and this could very well be one of its best - right up there with Kouros, Opium, and Paris. A real and timeless classic for the ages.

During a few unseasonably cold April days this week, I decided to get acquainted with Nu, and it was well-suited for the cool air, feeling like a smoky veil with green-metallic flashes of bitter bergamot and rapier neroli in its opening act. There is a spare quality to it—in spite of it being comprised of elements usually regarded as heady and rich, there is this exquisite translucency to its churn of cardamon and black pepper, feeling sheer and mysterious. A frankincense hangs like Georgette fabric, a holograph of smoke and softness, substance and weightlessness. When the floral core ascends, it smells like dianthus, jasmine, even Korean-spice viburnum (in bloom as I write this!). It's deemed a "white orchid" accord, and yes, the flowers here are white as in ghostly. I'd like to think this idea was attributed to Tom Ford: he was on fire in the early 2000s, and sadly he is now a hapless caricature. I can't help but to imagine he also was the vision behind its highly impractical futuristic bottle with its cobalt blue interior. The last night I spent some time inhabiting Nu, I decided after applying to put on Jacques Tourneur's Out of the Past. The weary indifference of Robert Mitchum as Jeff Bailey matches the mood on my skin. The hard light, the cigarette smoke, severe profiles and stark silhouettes—Nu nods in accordance. Deep, dark shadows everywhere, while Nu melts into vetiver-adorned balsams like an ambiguous shape. The distant stare of Jane Greer as Kathie Moffat, the pouting lips of a femme fetale, and the smoky smolder of Nu is the Greek chorus. It turns out it is perfect for cold April days and nights viewing film noir. It was the new millennium's answer to Opium, trading the sumptuous for the metaphysical. It is resolutely unisex, and maybe not as "feminine" as the market expected from a female-marketed fragrance. By 2009, it was discontinued, in surplus at markdown shops, misunderstood and under-appreciated. Now it's scarce and mythical, and those have the chance to experience it are either nonplussed or they are enchanted. There seems to be no in between, really—like so many of the most ingenious perfumes.

YSL Nu edp: First And Foremost , Why , Why Why , Did YSL Ever Discontinue This Absolutely Stunning Beauty Of A Perfume?? Can Someone From YSL Please Explain The Thinking And Reason Behind This Decision!! And What Exactly Is Going On At The Fragrance Dept Of The House Of YSL Atm!! Im One Of The VERY Lucky Few That Still Has A Half Full 100ml Original YSL Nu , And A Brand New Unopened Original 50ml , That I Simply Would Not Part With!! I Absolutely Fell Head Over Heels In Love With Nu The Very First Time I Ever Smelt It At The YSL Counter While There To Buy My ALL Time Favourite YSL Signature Perfume "Rive Gauche"!! I Actually Came Away With Them Both That Afternoon!! (Lucky Sales Girl That Served Me) The Nu Fragrance Just Oooooozed Pure French Class At It's All Time Best, Following Closely Behind It's Forebearer Rive Gauche!! I Actually Remember A Very Well Dressed Lady , Tapping Me On The Shoulder In The Lift , And Politely Asking Me What Perfume It Was , That I Was Wearing , As It Smelt Absolutely Beautiful On Me!! From That Day , I Always Made Sure I Kept A Bottle/Round Disk Of It , Plus A Full Back Up Of It In My Vast Perfume Collection!! It And Rive Gauche Sitting Proudly Together On My Vanity!! You Talk About Being Totally Gutted , When I Was Told It Had Eventually Been Discontinued!! It Was Just So Unique In Everyway Possible!! The Only Other Perfume That Smells Very Close To It , And Is Somewhat Similar To It Is: "DIOR ADDICT edp"!! So Anyone Who Really Misses YSL Nu , Please Do Check That One Out ASAP!! Im Honestly Hoping That YSL Will One Day Re-Release Nu , And When They Do , I'll Be One Of The First Ones In The Que Looking To Purchase It Again!! This Beauty Should Firmly Be Up There With YSL Rive Gauche , And Such A Shame That It Is'nt!!!! 😭

Lately, I have been interested in adding more incense fragrances to my collection. Nu has definitely been a great acquisition. The cardoman is quite strong at first, which I don't mind, as it's a note I really enjoy. It is soon joined by a spicy and smokey incense accord that is present through the mid notes through the dry down. It's beautiful, and very sexy. It is joined by a creamy sandalwood that softens the composition, keeping it from becoming overly spicy without obliterating it. The silage and projection are strong. This is a fragrance that can be too much if over-sprayed. Wrists and neck work well for me. As for longevity, I sprayed several hours ago and it is still projecting. This is not a skin scent! I do not know how this compares to the newer version, and it's unlikely I will even compare them. It's becoming difficult to find, and what I have seen leans towards the pricey side. Mine is a 10 ml spray, but given the strength, I think even that size will last for a while. I don't know exactly how much influence Tom Ford had in the creation, but I think it must have been significant as it seems to be a prototype of many of his Private Collection scents. I will say that like a large percentage of TF's fragrances, it is unisex. Others say it leans masculine, but on me, I would say that I find it to be feminine because it certainly makes me feel seductive! This is a love for me, and I can tell already that this will be one I reach for for evening events in the winter, though honestly, I would wear it in the daytime as well. I don't think this would be safe for office wear given it's potency. I highly recommend it to all who appreciate incense and oriental fragrances.