Nanban

Wow. Arquiste continues to impress me every time I try something new from them. Nanban opens a little bit sharp and strong, but not in an off-putting way—at least to my nose. It quickly mellows out into a dry, smoky, animalic incense but it doesn't smell like most of the perfumes that are usually described that way. The smoke is not of the fireplace variety. It is more pleasant, ashy, and earthy. It reminds me of walking around Kathmandu where juniper incense is burned all day, all over the city. It smells like a temple that contains hundreds of years worth of incense residue. If you've not been to a temple, you could compare it to the smell of an old Catholic church. The frankincense is there, but it is so well blended with the myrrh, juniper, and other resins that it doesn't stick out. I'm not getting any coffee or leather but I think that this, in combination with the resins, is what makes the animalic base. So, rather than getting a saddle shop leather, you get a little bit of vintage funk. It isn't an over the top castoreum or laundry detergent style musky scent. It's just a subtle hint of beautifully blended classic skin-like sexiness. I would recommend this to anybody who is into vintage fragrances. If you're looking for something animalic that isn't so heavy, this might be a nice choice. I would not suggest this for people who like to smell fresh and light. There is nothing sweet, airy, or fruity about this (much to my delight). 10/10 this is the best thing I've sampled in quite a while.

I heard so many deep dark legends about how good this was that I had to try it - dark spicy resiny woods being my home territory. At first spray I was a bit underwhelmed - yeah, it was in that ballpark, but not hitting any of the notes particularly heavily, very nice, very rich, very opulent, but really nothing stellar or unusual. Then it deepened and broadened for a couple of hours to become something really special, with really delicious frankincense. Then, about 4h in (on female skin in cool conditions, low humidity) most of the good stuff had died away and I was left only with a very bitter, sweaty afterwash... possibly the coffee and/or styrax, but in this phase, on me, it was acrid and not that great even for a lover of dark woody spice. I'd very happily try again and give it another go, but beware, this isn't for blind buying (especially at its steep retail price point.) ETA: tried again, this time with a completely different result: much warmer, lovelier spicy hardwoods, no coffee, no bitter dry down - but weaker on longevity than I remembered, and still just not quite beautiful enough to justify the price. Characterful and real, though maybe still a hair more butch than I'm comfortable with. Give it several test runs before making your decision on a full-bottle buy... ETA again: caved ... and bought. I think it performs very differently in different conditions - and is sweeter and warmer in mild, humid weather. Growing to love.

Board of director's steering committee at an old traditional company.... Leather chairs, robust resinous thick meeting table, coffee and tea and a couple of bouquets of flowers decorating the room. In the opening this feels peachy and sweet. Very soon coffee and leather are present, giving full body to this composition. To me the main player is the osmanthus reinforced by resins and spices with a touch of oriental incenses. It is dense, rich, opulent and very classy. It is sweet but very manageable. The picture that this brings to my mind is not something gourmand or edible, but more like a thick atmosphere that surrounds you like being in a high-class, refined, old-style and traditional indoor-location. Dry-down is kind of synthetic, very strong, but all special nuances are now blurred... which to me prevents this juice from being a completely master piece, but still very good and enjoyable. Uniqueness: medium-high Scent: 7.5/10 (first half is a 10/10) Performance: high Would I buy it: Yes

Oh my goodness, I think I just got a whiff of heaven. This came in a box of many samples which I have been patiently exploring. I scrambled to see which of the samples that I opened was so special. This is an incredible composition. We can go into all the tops to bases but to me the middle and base are so special. SPICES! Ancient spices...from somewhere Universal in Asia. Something that strikes a primal cord with you and subtly smashes your senses. A beautiful new flagship in my collection. I ordered the full bottle immediately, at a price of $190, you may wish to order a sample but I cannot imagine anyone not thoroughly liking this wonderful creation. I hope my sample lasts until the full bottle arrives as I will be wearing this all the time. Scent 10/10 (my only 10) Longevity 9/10 Silage 8/10 Price - Worth it, just do it!

Nanban is extremely complex and evolves over time. Warm spices, resins, leather, and coffee are all tied together by a ferocious animalic growl that gets louder in the late drydown. Wow. Arquiste really crammed a lot of notes into this bad boy, but it works. I can't help but picture a lioness, in all her strength and beauty, who is able to go from gently grooming her cub to rending her teeth through flesh in an instant. Nanban is not distinctly masculine or feminine and transcends gender stereotypes. This fragrance has a huge, commanding presence and its sillage shouts from across the room. Not for the meek. I'm looking forward to giving my sample a proper test run in colder temperatures. I have a feeling Nanban is going to be a stunner in my fall/winter rotation.