Jonquille

On approaching Darren Alan's Jonquille, one may be surprised by its earthy directness. Do not expect a Disney floral—expect more Jodorowsky. At its opening, it's green, but it also embodies that ineffable waxiness from bulb flowers, and even the sensation of pollen, which is often argued to have no inherent scent, but I say, that really depends on the bloom. The jonquil accord in perfume is an unconventional beauty, sort of a duality between pretty and disquiet, and Darren captures that intimate nature of jonquil blooms here. However, what most stands out to me, and has me transfixed, is the use of ambrette seed and angelica root: two botanic musks for which I am enamored. Here, with the floral absolutes—both narcissus and jonquil absolute plus mimosa absolute, the resulting fusion actually reminds me of another material I love, but has been highly restricted in perfumery due to a carcinogenic constituent called beta-asarone: calamus. Yes, the sensation of the strangely sweet, milky, musky, spicy rhizome. What a riveting dry down. This is a fascinating composition and yet another testament that Darren Alan is one to watch. ADDENDUM: Payan Bertrand produces a high quality fraction Calamus Extra oil that is asarone-free and can be used 0.47% in a finished product. Darren, consider it!