Cabochard Eau de Toilette 2019

Yesterday I did a side by side comparison with this edition and the older but not vintage one (the long bottle with a bow in the front of the glass and simple black plastic cap). I find that the 2019 version is a bit harsher, stronger in the beginning and more dominant on leather, while the older version is softer and weeker and not as long lasting either. The older one is beautiful and non-offensive, comforting scent, a weeker sister of the older EDP, while the 2019 formula of the edt is rather differnt from the 2019 edp (sharper and more leathery) and strong enough in this edt concentration. It's class, but not dated, and pretty longlasting. Strong and edgy at first but later it becomes a warmer and more wearable scent that lingers beautifully. I love them both. I would choose the older one for a more discreet, softer and more comfortable result or layering under other perfumes, while the 2019 version is better in it's own, I guess, for a somewhat dark, leathery, modernized classic style. There is a difference in the drydown: the older edt is not as longlasting as the newest one, therefore the drydown is soft and beautiful but turns to only a shadow of itself within 2-3 hours, while the 2019 edt has that somewhat synthetic drydown many reformulated classic perfumes have (the lack of real oakmoss and other ingredients that have been banned), not as soft as the drydown of the older one, but at least it lasts way longer. Both versions are very beautiful, really, and they are recognizable as the two versions of the very same scent.

Blind bought this and just received it today. The bottle is very cute. It looks like it would house a Miss Dior type of scent. This scent, however, is far from a girly little thing. This is a chypre that punches you in the face with leather...so much leather. I do not dislike it, but as a chypre lover, I feel conflicted about this one. This feels like the olfactory equivalent of a cocaine fueled party in the late 70’s/early 80’s. Like the ones in the movie Boogie Nights. Lots of gold chains, lipgloss, leather jackets, cigarette smoke, and unprotected sex. The only place I could confidently wear this is to a speakeasy or in Vegas. The longevity is nuclear. No need to get the parfum. I took a shower and it didn’t budge. I’m about to go to sleep and I can still smell it. I’m anticipating my dreams to be extra smutty tonight. Edit - So I tried this several times, and I have to say, the dry down is pretty stunning. The leather takes a back seat (thankfully) and what’s left is an elegant powder with a smoky background. It’s the scent of a wealthy, well dressed woman of yesteryear....and her ashtray 🤣. It’s also very sultry, borderline skanky like Tabu...even though it smells nothing like Tabu. It has that same kind of aura about it. Very polarizing, vintage scent. I really like it. If Jessica Rabbit had a signature scent, I bet it would be this!

The reformulated version from 2019 is a reformulation of a reformulation... I've known this perfume since my childhood years and the original smells different from the later versions. Currently, there are two versions available, the reformulated stuff produced about ten or maybe even four years ago and the latest version (in a new bottle) from last year (2019). The old version is sharper in the drydown and has more vetiver. It's a bit more leathery, but nothing in comparison to the old Cabochard from the 60's. The vintage stands out for itself, it is a true sister of Bandit and a rare gem... (should you come across it, grab it!). As to the 2019 reformulation: I think it's a very pleasant, light, softer version of the last reformulation. The drydown is more synthetic, probably because of the lack of genuine oakmoss and other key ingredients, but I must say that is is one of the rare satisfying reformulations on the market, still true to the basic idea of Cabochard and very wearable, excellent both on men and women. For the price of approx. 20 Euros you get a very recognisable EdT, completely devoid of sweetness or any traces of fruit salad. By the way, if you are a sucker for the vintage Cabochard, try ARAMIS. It is quite similar to the real thing from the past.

While I'm aware there is no way the current formulation is identical to the original, it's still "Cabochard", and it smells better than I remember even. I bought both the EDP and the EDT because I wasn't sure which was better, and when they arrived I noticed something odd: The EDT is 80% alcohol by volume, (or 20% perfume), which is incredibly strong for a EDT, and the EDP is actually 21% perfume (79% alcohol), so there is hardly any real difference in strength. I thought then why is the EDP darker? If you look in the ingredients the EDP contains red coloring that the EDT lacks, which likely makes it look more intense. The EDT is dryer and a bit sharper, more "square" and unfussy. The EDP is rounder, plusher. I feel like the EDT would be more for daytime and the EDP for evening, if that makes any sense. I sense a bit more tobacco in the EDT, which makes me prefer it most. Both are close to Azuree, but less outdoorsy, a little more "conservative" and more severe, in a good way.

First, I love Cabochard. Conceptually, artistically, historically, there are few that compare. That said, I have not found the time of year to wear it that best suits me. Well, last night I finally found it. Spring, evening, 60ish degrees, and only 2 spritzes, because this girl is a purring beast, with soft luxurious fur. The temperate air really brought out the green in this fragrance. And with the modest 2 spritzes, it just enveloped me in its brazen green, ashen and floral leather glory. She maynot be for every day, but is still, with reformulations, an absolute masterpiece.