Mouchoir de Monsieur

If you see my first review below, you will wondering why i write a new one. The story starts at the office, one day we were discussing some perfumes with colleagues. i told them that there is a Guerlain that it stinks, smells like shit powdered. All asked which is this perfume and i promised to bring a sample at launch. When i returned to the office with the sample and gave it for a try, i was impressed by the reaction...words like "strange, nice, attractive and very nice" were among those expressed. I really wondering what is going on with this perfume...it is THE controversial perfume...it stinks, it smells, is nice, is shit, is sweet is dusty, is flowery is animalic...definitely a great creation but out of date. Personally, i am not the kind of man who has boundaries on perfumes...i wear everything that is not common but i still try to understand if i like it or not, if i love it or hate it, if it smells or stinks...definitely, i will give it a try on the skin and will see what i get....maybe i buy it soon...or today. The whole thing starts dusty floral and then, civet vanilla and other spices come into the game. the best phase of this perfume is the middle and drydown. There you will smell what this perfume is....the overloaded civet with its sweetness, spiciness...what else to say? A pure man's perfume, the beginning of the century...you have to own a classic beautiful car like an Alfa Romeo, dressed with scarf to be chic, have a pencil moustache like a true English gentlemen, be manly handsome like Clarke Gable and behave with the rules of savoir vivre...At least this perfume does not smell like all other and more than anything else, like 1 million....oh god! you dont smell it in the streets, in the office, in the parties, in the restaurants, in the bus, in the garage, in the theatres, in your friend's house.... How does it smell like? it is like you have spilled some honey from some flowers in an ashtray where there is some dried pee from the previous day.... this perfume to stand in our days where everything is dominated by the fresh "out of shower" smell for men, is very remarkable....try and then you buy...dont buy if not try but you can try and not buy. :-) definitely a winter perfume, you cant wear civet unless the temperature is 14C or less. UPDATE: you cant imagine how this perfume changes when there is cool outside...maybe the bigger change in the perfume industry. once i sniff it in summer, it was very suffocating and disgusting giving you the impression of a very strong animalic scent but when i read some review the last weeks, everyone was say how beautyful is...and there it is. it is indeed very beautyful and unique. i haven't checked Jicky so far but definitely i will do so once i have the change. The only problem which was mentioned is the starting, the first 5-10 minutes although the citrus and lemon verbena are very pleasant, they is something very dusty that makes it dated in a way....once this is passed, then you are left with a lovely lavender and vanilla with civet giving warm to the bouguet. The longevity and sillage is not so good and stays close to the skin after the first 1-2 hours but a perfume like this, cant be so strong because it will destroy everything. I believe that the current reformulation lost a lot of civet together with longevity...indeed, the longevity is nearly bad and i cant understand why. About two years ago, when i first smelled that, it was a monster...now what is going wrong, i dont know....maybe power was sacrificed for the versality.

I was introduced to Mouchoir de Monsieur during a visit to the terrific Colonial Drug in Newton MA (formerly in Harvard Sq, Cambridge, MA) by the owner a few years ago. I was just beginning to explore the house of Guerlain, having only been really aware of Habit Rouge and Vetiver at the time. As it was sprayed on the paper strip (and in due time, my own skin) I was immediately intrigued by the history Mouchoir represented: in the very midst of the Edwardian era of British history, it epitomizes the dandy of this time period. The dandy has his accessories: his monocle, his boutonnière, silk hat, cane, and his handkerchief (mouchoir). The handkerchief is lustrated with a fragrance for his delight. Mouchoir de Monsieur IS this lustration and it's a delight to the right of set of nares, with its opening fanfare lavender, verbena, and bergamot and a noticeable Guerlain 'DNA,' if you will. However, something happens just mere seconds in: something a little, hmm, impertinent, just a tiny bit sullied and profane. This isn't a Disney depiction of the Edwardian era, let's just say. These dandies may have very well had some skeletons in the closet and Guerlain knows the importance of code (perhaps this was the first hanky 'code'?). Even the cleanest pair of drawers laundered in orange blossom water may have residual spots of...er...micturition by eveningtide that could be perceived as naughty and sensual. Mouchoir de Monsieur deftly represents it here, but it does not wear out its welcome (was it invited? who cares!) as moss, iris and florals distract you just enough from this lascivious civet (why is it not a listed note??) so that you start to think it wasn't out of place at all. It may actually BE the representation of both the dandy's rapier wit and unspoken sexuality. Remember, this is all understated. Mouchoir is certainly not a beast, but it's definitely not a wallflower, either. It's all theory though, and in the end, a dry down of classy yet melancholic Guerlainade brings it all back home after a detour into debasement and secrecy. It's all really relatable in a way. One of my absolute favorites.

Time. We do not have enough. Time to move slowly, gentleness with great power. Time for a luxurious shower, time to properly dry off, crop the disorderly whisker at the corner of the lip. Time to take a few sprays of Mouchoir de Monsieur then contemplate the day's outfit and draw your mind into focus while the discordant elements of cat piss and acrid lavender, rough workmen, assemble the most refined assemblage of jasmine and rose. Perhaps that white necktie really will work with that shirt? Rose, jasmine, two of the floral kingdoms most distinctive notes, are bound together by the perfumer's art as Plato's charioteer harnesses reason and passion to drive onward towards enlightenment. The soft under-notes, barely detectable tonka and civet, order the floral scents and speak of control and authority over nature and beauty, recalling the classical manhood of the master and commander. Perhaps the most masculine, and yet softest, scent in my collection. Minimal silage, though, having a rather independent streak, it has a tendency to take a short stroll on its own now and then, inevitably resulting in at least a glance and a smile that shows appreciation for your keeping such good company. While discreet, Mouchoir de Monsieur is indefatigable, applied in the morning, enduring a day in the office, a trip to the gym and a quick shower, I can take my evening repose with the faint and reassuring air of knowledge that I rest as the master of my domain. Lovely stuff, highly suitable for enthronements, inaugurations, third dates, promotions, and any other event for which you will be knowingly fabulous. I think a mere mortal might exhaust himself with the effort of wearing it too much. This could not be my signature scent unless I had a full time valet, dresser and driver. But if you can wear it now and then, you should know that you have what it takes to get it done as a man.

This the most strange perfume I came across for the last years....It does not smell, it stinks. It starts so dirty and animalic that your wondering how someone can wear such a perfume. Later and when the perfume dries on the skin, it terns to be soapy with some dirty citrus slightly sweet. If you have not tried it, give it a try. It is something that you never smelled before. Beyond amber, I was definitely that there were some animal resources there but in any case, I never expected such ingredients. It is a pure man's perfume but not for the younger crowd. You get something attractive at last but also something dirty/smoky/vanillic with civet although is not listed in the ingredients. Kouros is another one animalic/civet perfume but this is much more difficult to wear than Kouros. Try it but be careful because maybe you will sleep outside during the night because your wife will not allow you to enter the house. the last years with all these new citrus/clean/fresh aquatic perfumes, make this to be one of a kind and something that will never be produced again. Someone who likes jardin du nil from matre parfumeur et gantier, may like this one also. UPDATE: Obviously, the perfume was tested in wrong weather....and there, it stinks...try it in cool weather and you will be amazed how things change......in hot weather, the civet seems too strong and the perfume suffocating

Jicky is believed to be one of the first (secret) unisex fragrance, a fragrance androgynous enough to sit in the middle of the spectrum of what is conventionally acceptable for each gender to wear. Now what happens if maintain the signature sparkly bergamot lavender Guerlain swirl in the top and fluffy vanilla in the base, amp up the animalic civet-like elements and bring out more masculine 'barbershop' facets, while also maintaining the rich neroli rose floral backdrop? You get Mouchoir de Monsieur, aka another historical early 1900s masterpiece by Guerlain. As the name also suggests, this is 'the handkerchief of a gentleman', gentle sweet vanillic florals on the outside (a feminine residual from Jicky), concealing the pungent animalic dry aromatic essence of man. 11/10 perfection. The absolute specimen of French oriental perfumery. Unfortunately it is very difficult to pull off unless you are wearing full formal attire. This is my father's signature scent and even a mature gentleman like him, who is almost exclusively wearing a suit, saves it for the most extravagant of occasions, and rightfully so. Personally I find it strikingly virile for how sparkly, sweet and tender it may first seem.

“There are only two good Fougère’s, Jicky and Mouchoir de Monsieur - all the rest are for truck drivers” - Jean-Paul Guerlain. A bold statement from the man himself, and a clearly biased one, but that doesn’t take away from the fact that Mouchoir de Monsieur is one of the greatest Fougère’s ever made. Released 15 years after the revolutionary Jicky, perhaps to give society enough time to adjust to such an outrageous scent, this beauty was born. This retains a lot of similarities to Jicky, with many describing it as the masculine counterpart. Lavender is front and centre, alongside copious amounts of citrus, bergamot and lemon in overdose. It also utilises the same base of coumarin and vanillin to provide some sweet creaminess, but lacks the sandalwood and rosewood which Jicky has. Overall, it really does smell like a more masculine version of Jicky. It’s intensely aromatic and herbal with sharp citrus to compliment, but with the softness in the base toned down - you’re left with something much more bold and daring. It smells far more dry and almost dusty, as though the scent of an old eau de cologne lingers on a vintage suit gathering dust. Absolutely impeccable perfumery.

This surely must be the softest and most luxurious fragrance for men of all time. From the fruity lavender top to the dusty ambered base, this fragrance awes with its subtle beauty. This is something to the effect of Chanel No. 5 for men in its perfect sillage and refined character. The lived-in skin feel of the fragrance portrays something akin to cleanliness without being too clean, an effect that is universally irresistible to all people around you. Its subtle sweetness reaches out to others very gently and draws them in. Perhaps others don't even know it's a fragrance. I have never received more compliments with any other fragrance than I have with Mouchoir de Monsieur. This is by far the highest expression of men's perfume I've ever encountered. It's a shame that it isn't marketed better. I just hope Guerlain never decides to pull the plug on this one. Wear exactly 5 sprays to get the perfect dose. It is an EDT, but it wears a bit like the classic Guerlain EDCs(namely the Jacques Guerlain classics in EDC strength). You will immediately be recognized as the most tasteful individual in the room.

I love Mouchoir de Monsieur to distraction. I first smelt it on the street, just outside the European parliament in Strasbourg, where I stumbled upon a gentleman walking out of the main building after a parliamentary session, a dapper, sophisticated middle-aged man with such a sillage that I had to retrace my steps and be so bold as ask him what the wonderful scent was. I headed straight to the next fragrance shop, ordered it, bought it and have been happy with it for years. I treasure it as it is not sold any more at present. They are having a hard time at Guerlain, I've heard, getting a hold of all necessary ingredients to make this. It is a magnificent classical fragrance for men, but with such a Guerlain touch! For me what stands out is the lavender, naturally, but also the rose, the patchouli, the oak moss and certainly the bergamot. And oh, the drydown has softening, luscious amber with a hint of vanilla, exquisite. I would love to smell this on my husband but he - pity poor me! - does not care a fig for perfumes... So well, what choice have I got? I happily wear it!!!

Go for a vintage bottle only; anything before the late 80's... and yes there is A LOT of "before the late 80's" in this case thanks God, it comes all the way from beginings of 20th century! Even if there will be so few bottles out there one can hunt down, all you will ever need is one. This is not a fragrance to wear, this is something precious to treasure and go back to when occasion imposes. Lavander, iris and gerlinade all combined but not in a liquid form. It is as if Mouchoir is a linen-dried form of a fragrance, so powdery and airy that all fruits, petals and juices are somewhat hidden in the fabric. A fougere where civet hides and never really sees the sun. Yet it is there. Sure, we can make links to Jicky, Shalimar, even later with Habit Rouge (less than the mentioned two?), but what’s the point? Mouchoir de Monsieur speaks of a time when there was so little going on in fragrance names and launches and campaigns and marketing... that the least we can do is looking it straight in the eyes, as opposed to dissect and negotiate. It is a master piece. Period.

Call me weird but I'm drawn to skank! And when I say that I don't mean funky BO or the such, but the idea of something not being pristine. I've never liked the idea of my cloths looking brand new or my shoes to look like they are fresh from the box. I don't know why. Now, don't take me wrong. I'm a very neat dresser and my wife is FAR from what you would even remotely put in the category of "skanky". I just like to come across as "real" a guess. So, it goes the same with fragrances. I have a lot of perfumes and I love them all, but I lean to what smells "human". Kouros, I love it. Hammam bouquet, very intriguing. Just ordered leather oud so we'll see how that turns out. With all that said, I love this fragrance. I love the opening "skank". It just makes it real to me for some strange reason. I love the dry down. Everything about mdm is just amazing to me. Yes, it's close to the skin in silage but that's cool to me. I think it's supposed to come across as a "hint" rather than a smack in the head.

When people discuss old school fragrances they often talk about fragrances from the 90's, 80's, 70's... So it's something that you may have smelled on your older brother or father. Here we are a few steps further. It's something that my great-grandfather may have worn. This is the smell of men at the beginning of the 20th century and just for the curiosity of it I had to buy it. And I mean blind buy it, since no store in Belgium had a tester. I did not hate it. But I think it is too dandy-esque for me, in a Hammam's Bouquet way. I don't know if I feel confident enough to wear this. Also, I found the opening quite harsh. Unfortunately, the experience was short-lived as I accidentaly broke the bottle 90% full. Shame, I would have loved to experiment with this perfume in the long term and see if I could actually get on with it. Again it's such a secret perfume that few people even know its existence, it will never be a crowd pleaser and just for that I wanted us to be friends. One day, maybe?

This is such a beauty. Yes, it has the same bergamot-aromatics-tonka-animalic chord as Jicky, but it definitely feels more distinctly about the lavender and is less a grand perfume like Jicky (I don't get a huge rosewood, sandalwood and some spices like I do with Jicky). The florals also feel a bit softer (more jasmine and white flowers?) than Jicky and I feel like the verbena/geranium work nicely to make it feel a little closer to that original fougere structure. All versions I've smelled have been lovely, though the pure parfum I have from the 50's is deeper, a bit more powdery, rounded, and ambery. Sadly, it also kind of disappears into skin, though sometimes reappears with heat much later. Interestingly enough, when I actually put the parfum version on a "mouchoir" (any kind of tissue or paper) and it reaches the final drydown, when I "reactivate" it with heat or a breath, even days later, the lavender-tonka chord so beautifully stands out in a way that it doesn't on skin.

A wonderful flanker of Jicky but, as a Jicky cultist, I have to specify I prefer the original. Mouchoir de Monsieur EDT (which I have) is somewhat more citric, less vanillic and more herbal than my Jicky (which is in extrait). Through much time spent with these fragrances I've grown to like Jicky's slightly less sweet composition even more than Shalimar's (though I still love this one too) but the dearth of vanilla in MdM makes it a slightly less pleasurable experience for me. MdM is more of a cologne-like scent with a touch of civet, at least in EDT, I don't find it enormously different to Jicky (to the point where I declare it's redundant to own both). Sadly discontinued, I write this review for anyone in the future who won't get a chance to smell MdM to reassure that there's nothing here which Jicky doesn't also deliver on. The discontinuation of Jicky extrait, however, truly is a tragedy...

Love this and hate it too... Bought it a week or so ago and, on spraying (sparingly, having been warned by posts here) thought,"Oh, nice, citrus, lavender"...then, after 30 seconds, or so....eurgh!!! Cow Byer, halitosis, wino that I sat next to on the bus... Truely hideous, filthy and noisome. Thank goodness it settles down after a couple of minutes to a much more respectable, masculine, floral scent, with just a hint of animal, like the smell of a puppy's ears, still haunting it. can't decide if part of the pleasure of wearing this, though, is the relief when the overpowering animal notes subside. Still, like the faithful disciple, I understand that if this fragrance disturbs me (and it does) then the fault is mine....Messrs Guerlain may do no wrong.

I am allergic to lavender oil, in a big, bright red rash way. As a result, I can't say I'm very keen on the scent of lavender; I have a sort of Pavlovian fear response when I smell straight lavender oil. It makes it hard to get a decent massage, unless I call ahead and warn them, because apparently lavender is supposed to be universally calming, and not make you begin itching on contact. So it is always a total mystery to me when men's fragrances manage to incorporate lavender so beautifully that I fall into immediate love with them. Mouchoir has a beautiful lavender, then a creamy citrus and an even creamier vanilla. I feel as if I could bathe in it, and get only a contact high. Irresistible.

I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw this bottle at NM this weekend. I only thought it was at NM in SF. I tried it immediately, since it's been over two years since I tried it there, I remember it just the same - short lived on my skin. For this reason I could pout! I really wanted this to last on me, it's truly a beautiful scent with such wonderful history - I guess I'll give Jicky a fresh try along with Caron Pour Homme. I have the hardest time spending good cash on something so fleeting. Maybe it lasts better on clothing? JG 042312 Rating: 8/10 for longevity but 10/10 for the fragrance!

Feeling of returning to where you belong - home. Same vibe gives me Jicky, but Jicky is more animalic. Might be that lavender soothes me so well, or I just love Guerlain house more than I have imagined. It's soft and reasonably simple, but I have to say it is the most mysterious and somewhat Medieval scent I had chance to find so far. To me it is an aristocratic Frenchman with long genealogy, all he needs is just being himself to be noticed by miles for his classy appearance and posture. I need a bottle, oh yes, I do! Thanks to AyelFior for the sample!

I have quite a few Guerlain fragrances and this is for sure one of the best I own. It is expensive these days, but if you can get it around 200USD, it's worth it to me. It is really not meant to be smelled close up for the first 10-15 minutes, it is quite harsh, but after that it's really nice, like a masculine take on Shalimar, which I love. Really great stuff. Spicy and rich.

I love how rich and calming this one smells. Lavender, vanilla, iris, and citrus notes are the key structures. Oakmoss is quite exist here but not dominating as you'd find in tons of vintages out there, and the florals are cheering up the tone. Never got a chance to smell the legendary Jicky but Mouchoir de Monsieur reminds me a lot with Eau de Lavande Annick Goutal.

موشواغ دو ميسيو .. كيف اصف هذا العطر ..!! هذه عطور تكاد تكون لحظية .. دقائق معدودات و للأنها كذلك كانوا فيه من الزاهدين ..!! .. افتتاحية حمضية منعشة من الليمون واللافندر .. و الكثير الكثير من الزباد الصناعي ١٠ دقائق .. ليست بالكثير حتى يظهر الآيس لينتهي عمر هذا العطر .. ١٥ عشر دقيقة تحبس الانفاس .. هل تستطيع ..!! .. الجمال ٩/١٠

Powerful and mysterious, Mouchoir de Monsieur is a classic Guerlain scent from the beginning of the 20th century. The formula has changed since the recent reissue, and the frangrance has lost a little warmth and deepness. Yet, it remains a very unique mens perfume, old school but extremely chic.

I tested this one yesterday and was confused at first sniff about the chaos it created in my nose. However, after a while it developed and became quite interesting. Not entirely different from the Floris range, it is a fine dandyesque and complex scent that can be easily worn nowadays. ****

The drydown is fantastic, as opposed to the mass marketed perfumes that has an attractive opening. You have to wait for it to dry down to experience the real beauty of this juice. Just unique and at the same time familiar: the guerlinade note has its word. In love with it.

L’homme idéal is a myth, but his Mouchoir is a reality. MdM is elegant, confident, noble and sexy. No kitsch or filters here. Just natural lavender pureté, jasmine lust, citrusy vigour, honey soul and vanilla comfort. My fragrance idéal. *****

For the love of Jicky! This is Jicky's little brother. So nice. I really love this one. So much so, I wish to one day own it and It is a gentlemans parfum. It is a fascinating classic. A wonderful Guerlain masterpiece.

Shame on Guerlain for having discontinued this gem👎 are they nuts at Guerlain? Their new releases are worthless! Rubbish😣 Guerlain LVMH must bring back mouchoir de Monsieur & Derby once again!

another gem killed by Guerlain house! since lvmh took over guerlain house the scents are changed and not lasting anymore! shame on you we are not dumb!

Discontinued. Glad I grabbed a bottle last year, will enjoy each and every drop, until it lasts!

under rated. this and shalimar cologne are amazing. study bitcoin

My sample of this is the edt from the Guerlain counter in 2016. I sniffed it again today in April 2022 and it's f-a-n-t-a-s-t-i-c. I recall it having a more distinct halitosis-fecal bite to it when I first obtained it, so it's either mellowed out or I've gotten used to animalics. I've owned and worn Jicky, and compared to ~2019 bee bottle formulations of Jicky EDT or EDP it's reading to me more masculine, more vanilla, less civet, more citric. I immediately put the vial of MdM to my boyfriend's 'wear this!' shelf because it smells so good. Not strictly for gents or dandies, I think this is a great fragrance for most guys who want a subtle, classic, appealing cologne whether you're dressed in a suit or a tee-shirt, if you can get your hands on it. I really did not appreciate it when I was new to perfume, and I had the sample up for sale/swap for months. I'm so glad nobody bought it!

I feel very ambivalent about this classic. It is undoubtedly a very fine, unusual creation. Vile civet opening which smells very faecal and musky. But it shortly transforms into a stupendous rosy, lavender scent. Multi-faceted and uber-sophisticated. Sometimes I love it; sometimes not. It is an acquired taste. It does grow on you. The packaging is gorgeous, as you'd expect from this house. What stops me from rating this more highly is its hopeless projection and poor longevity. I know my skin type is not great for projection. But I have to use 10+ sprays to have any chance of it lasting or being noticed by anyone else. And, whilst it's not super-costly, it's not exactly cheap either. I have received compliments from this scent though. A fickle friend I feel.

I was thankful to get a hold of a decant of this to try. I bought this from "Decantshop". This smells sort of nice and ok. I don't think I can fully get into this type of fragrance. It smells sort of pungent and almost like licorice when I first apply it, Then after a while it smells sweet, aromatic, and floral. There's almost a powder puff dry down. The thing that didn't occur to me with this fragrance until later on after my 1st initial testing of it, is that it seems like it smells like it's more geared for retired age women in 70's and on up or like it came out of someone's grandma's perfume collection. This fragrance was an interesting one to try. I'm thinking maybe this could be used as a unisex fragrance also, especially for retired age women.?

It opens with a rather unpleasant note, but this doesn't last long at all, however - just upon initial spraying - and the narrative moves on to a rather dusty antique floral of lavender and iris scent that stays close to the skin. As time passes, the vanilla note becomes more noticable. It's not bad; I do feel dressy when smelling of it - but it's not my thing. I prefer Guerlain's Heritage. UPDATE: I have sprayed this on myself a few more times. I no longer find the initial spray unpleasant; I've grown used to it.

A classic, old school gentleman for a scent. If Jicky and Chant d’Aromes had a child. Aromatic. If the oakmoss was slightly tuned down and something more resinous tuned up I’d like it even better. Or maybe the weather is simply too cold for this one at the moment. This is for a man who would belong to the cast of the League of Extraordinary Gentlemen. I am going to do some layering experiments to see how I could turn this to slightly more feminine side. Beautiful old school Guerlain quality.

Notes accord on top accurately reflects the composition...citrusy lavender with aromatics and a hint of sweetness, followed by classic Guerlainade. Soft and slightly powdery. Very genteel gentlemanly and lovely. Something for Sunday tea wearing a linen jacket in a scene out of Age of Innocence. Not really something I'd wear, but very glad to have experienced it. Scent: 8 / Sillage: 7 / Longevity: 7

My first impressions weren't good, more of a dated old-school citrus men's fragrance for dandies that smells of sharp cat pissy note and old people. After letting the bottle macerate and trying it again - what a pleasant scent! Very sophisticated and gentlemanly. A reviewer below described this on point - citrusy lavender with aromatics and a hint of sweetness, followed by classic Guerlainade.

Fizzy citrus opening dries to a lovely powdery lavender/vanilla. Sometimes a love, sometimes a like, its the civet note I struggle with. One for collectors or connoiseurs - I can't think of anything like this in my collection, which makes it a pleasure to return to from time to time. 3.5/5

There is nothing quite like this out there. The juxtaposition of filth and elegance make this cologne unique and irreplaceable. Sweat, piss, vanilla and lavender. Every bit as enjoyable and disgusting as sex. A must have.

Where is the significant Civet note here on the Fragrantica list of olfactory components? There should be some musk as well. This is not a review, I cannot ascertain how to inform the editor otherwise.

( Burt Lancaster ) Prince Don Fabrizio Salina in The Leopard (Luchino Visconti) 1963 ++++++++++

Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur is an enduring classic so I suppose there must be something to be said for it, but to me it seems like a mild (albeit elegantly mild) and forgettable classic style cologne (bergamot, lavender, neroli, tonka, oakmoss) with a strange dirty top note that lasts the first few hours. When I first smelled it I found this note disquieting but interesting, but then I made one of those olfactory gestalt associations and now it smells like vomit to me. Vomit not as pejorative but as descriptive - that unique bile acid scent or whatever it is that makes vomit smell like vomit. Once I made that association it locked in and now I can't stand Mouchoir. I feel like a gosling imprinted on the wrong object - owner of a fairly expensive bottle of eau de vomit. I wish I could replace the association with that of Jacques Guerlain's mistresses' backside, it sounds more alluring. Apparently most others detect this note much more sympathetically, so don't let my experience stop you from trying this classic.

Jicky, who was already considered slightly irregular from birth, has a renegade young brother called MDM: He insists it be pronounced "em-day-em" regardless of which country he's tearing apart with his inimitable allure. It is often said that the devil is a charming man--and as many would have it, he can really dance. Accordingly, MDM skips merrily into all the best parties, dancing with all the finest ladies, cavorting with the highest ranking gentlemen; chatting ernestly with interesting-looking unknowns. MDM would never wait in a queue, inexplicably looks dashing barefoot in a running suit three days unwashed, and even more spectacular in black tie: His sartorial choices are always unexpected. MDM is the one who will show up impeccably turned out in a Brown Tux, pulling that off famously. In hushed tones, it is said that he is a bit of a scallywag--yet only the chosen few know of his secret passions, while most everyone else considers him entirely untouchable: A study in blithe well bred aloofness. However; the seemingly distant MDM has been known to entertain devotees with his body in very unusual places, since there are so many admirers, and so little time: He's tall, dark and handsome--and only looks like Sister Jicky in proportion. He has his sister's wildly inbred proportions and singular facial features, but his colouring is distinctly different: Where Jicky got mousey medium ash blonde hair and blue-green eyes, MDM got ebony hair and chestnut eyes along with the family skin, inherently colorless. MDM's thick black hair is so luxuriant that he wears a full beard at all times, allows the hairs on his head to become long and full of ringlets, further contrasting with his sisters fine English straight hair, and staunchly disdains body epilation. He's Jicky's dark, hairy little brother who ravages everyone where ever he goes with no remorse whatsoever. He goes by, and his odor reminds you of his sister, inexplicably detained in a brothel where benzoin and amber incenses and pastilles are burned pretty regularly to hide the smell of Opium. All the family traits are there--MDM is every bit as fascinating as his sister, he's just a rake: He smokes various things, drinks whiskey straight up, and, whilst maintaining an unfailing gentlemanly air, he will shamelessly enthrall fans with his body for hours only to saunter out unbathed looking perfect to meet another one he intends to enthrall in public, never once wondering if a bath would be in order. He carries the smoke aura of his various haunts on his exquisite wardrobe, and always has a bit of a sebaceous smell along with it hovering about his neck: Oh! and, of course, there's also the bit about MDM's handkerchief, which he is never without. The Handkerchief of sir, very obviously soaked in English Lavender, will invariably also contain the remnants of a lover he wiped off with it, and the heady whisky soaked, smoky saliva of his mouth. If you want Jicky to have a louche brother with the morals of a demon who just happens to be stunning and impeccably clothed, never predictable but always polite, even in an orgy or a bar brawl, who's seen at all the right parties secretly en route to the most highly coveted and secretive wrong ones, then this is your man: Naturally, as would be expected, MDM himself won't be had by just anyone--but one can always try. MDM's wanton ways may work in your favor, but only if you know the right crowd; Even this man's tricks are fallen, penniless aristocratics on a bender. For MDM, the merely average wouldn't ever figure into his considerations: He's perfectly unacquainted with mediocrity and has little time and even less interest when it shows its face. Unwavering in the realm of perfect manners, MDM would never insult you. It would just appear that he hadn't noticed your overtures, especially if they were obvious. Furthermore, MDM doesn't hang around anywhere for too long. Just when you think you might get that chance, you turn to dazzle, and he's gone--leaving behind only his signature waft of scent: the sebum of in-bred aristocratic oil glands scantily moistened with English lavender Water...Very much as happens with Sister Jicky, most can not decide if they find this pleasant, they are simply left behind by it, flummoxed by a kind of fascinated longing......

Maybe it's some weird human drive for finding distinction, maybe it's simply the result of having more perfumes than I could ever imagine wearing in a lifetime, but I find myself focussing on the qualitative differences of some very similar perfumes. Guerlain Habit Rouge eau de toilette and eau de parfum. The same for Guerlain Insolence. Serge Lutens Féminité du Bois, Bois de Violette and Bois et Fruits. I’ve found themes that I like and now I'm looking for the variations. I've gone backwards historically, starting with the Sheldrake/Bourdon perfumes for Lutens and going back to the ones that started the trend: Guerlain’s Jicky (1889) and Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904). The contrasts between Jicky and Mouchoir play out as the differences in temperament you might find between twins. These perfumes differ in degrees of expansiveness, but have more similarity than difference. But when resemblance is taken for granted, the differences jump out at you. (A note about formulation. I have the eau de toilette of Jicky from 2005, and a brand-new bottle of Mouchoir, also eau de toilette.) Both perfumes have a rich, almost tactile quality but Jicky also has a cat’s poise, an active balance that might shift one way or the other on a whim. Jicky’s play of lavender and vanilla seems to sparkle, suggesting something fluid and always in motion. Oh, Jicky has its raunch. The civet note is neither subtle nor hidden, but it's playfully lewd. Jicky seems very aware of its shifty personality, and may play any side at one time or another to charm you. Mouchoir speaks with the same voice as Jicky, but is more reserved. To use a word that I wish had never fallen out of use, Mouchoir is melancholic. Where you can take the entirety of Jicky in in a single breath, Mouchoir takes a bit more commitment. The effort pays dividends, though, and wearing Mouchoir rewards you with a sense of groundedness and presence. Is Jicky simply a less uptight version of Mouchoir? Or is Mouchoir a more introspective version of its impulsive elder brother? To look at the two more specifically as perfumes, Jicky leans more toward the oriental genre. It is thicker and more voluptuous. It's dessert qualities are right on the tip of its tongue when it kisses you. Mouchoir, particularly in its basenotes, has the austerity of a chypre, emphasizing dryness over dessert. Accordingly, it's basenotes growl where Jicky’s purr. Only the most sensitive nose around you will likely spot the difference in these perfumes from one day to the next. Deciding which to where is far more important to you than to anyone around you. And here is the delight of these twins. Choosing the right one and feeling the satisfaction as I apply it feels like setting loose the butterfly effect on my day. from scenthurdle.com

عطر موشوا دو مسيو منذ أربعة سنوات وانا أبحث عن هذا العطر الذي يفوق في ندرته وندرة أماكن بيعة عطور جيرلان الحصرية باهظة الثمن. أطلق هذا العطر سنة 1904م والأنف وراء هذا العطر هو المحترف جاك جيرلان، والغريب أن هذا المحترف لم يؤلف عطرا رجاليا لدار جيرلان سوى هذا العطر "بحسب علمي" على الرغم من توليفه لعدد من العطور النسائية لنفس الدار، ويجسد عطر مشوا دو مسيو "منديل السيد" ما كان يجب أن يتحلى به النبلاء والرجال بصفة عامة خلال هذه الحقبة من الزمن "وربما في كل وقت" من قوة وصرامة وجرأة ، فجاء العطر عاصفا قويا يطيح اللافندر في افتتاحيته بكل ما حوله من مكونات بل وبكل حولك أنت أيضا من روائح، ويظل الحال على هذا النحو دون أن يفصح العطر عن شخصيته الحقيقية وعن بقية المكونات لفترة من الوقت قد تمتد لربع الساعة بعدها تبدأ الحمضيات في مزاحمة اللافندر بعد معركة رهيبة صمد خلالها اللافندر وحده وبقوة تعبر عن نقاءه وقوة تركيزه التي ساعدته على الصمود طوال هذا الوقت، ولذلك وجب التنبيه أن من لا يتحملون العطور القوية الصادمة في افتتاحيات العطور فلن يتحملوا هذا العطر ولن ينتظروا ليكملوا معه بقية الطريق ولكنهم سيرفضونه بعد أول خمسة ثوان على الأرجح وسيكون انطباعهم عنه انه (أسوأ عطر في العالم كله" وأن عطر كوروس من ايف سان يعد نسمة لطيفة إلى جوار هذه العاصفة التي لا تهدأ، 20 دقيقة تقريبا ويبدأ البتشول في التعبير عن وجوده ويبدأ مسار العطر عندها في التحول من الحالة العاصفة إلى حالة التموج والتنوع ما بين حار متبل عندما تطغى رائحة القرفة والتونكا وحال الوداعة والرقة مع وجود الأزهار الناعمة المتنوعة وايضا لا مانع من صعود اللافندر والحمضيات بشكل خافت بين الحين والآخر، وكأنك تتأرجح في ارجوحة كبيرة ترتفع لتصدمك بالأجواء الباردة القوية ثم تهبط بك إلى منطقة مشمسة ساخنة وسط بستان ممتد الأطراف تكسوه الأزهار والورود، واعتقد أن حرفية جاك جيرلان اعتصرها اعتصارا ليخرج قلب هذا العطر بهذا الشكل الإبداعي المعبر عن حرفيته وقدرته بصورة تمثل تحديا واضحا منه لأقرانه من مصممي العطور، وبعد فترة ليست بالقصيرة يبدا طحلب السنديان في الظهور وكأن هذه المنظومة كلها قام جاك بنقلها ليضعها على أحد الشطآن لتكتمل اللوحة التعبيرية المحفورة بذهنه عن هذا العطر، وتمتد قاعدة العطر بنفس الفكرة المسيطرة على عقل جاك وهو يصمم هذا العطر، وكأنه لا يريدك أن تستقر على حال أو تطمع أن تأتي بغيره من العطور كشبيه أو مثيل أو بديل له فتتقلب القاعدة وتموج من بين الهدوء والقوة ما بين زهرة السوسن والعنبر من ناحية وطحلب السنديان الفيتيفر من ناحية أخرىن العطر يصدر الآن على هيئة ماء تواليت ولا أعتقد أنه يمكن أن يكون أقوى من هذا الحال حتى يصدر كماء عطر العطر يمثل دعوة عامة لكل محبي العطور النادرة الكلاسيكية ولكني أعتقد أنه لن يتعطر به إلا عدد محدود من ذوي الشخصيات القوية التي ربما تحمل مزيجا من الصفات المتناقضة

(A review originally posted on MakeupAlley in 2005, I wanted to re-post it here now because I do not use MakeupAlley anymore [but have many fond memories of using it] and I am trying to get back into writing reviews, using old 'work' as inspiration...): The only Aromatic/Fougere as yet in my collection, I bought this one to learn from. Wrote that I would buy it again, but not sure, it depends on how my collection deepens with time...The opening citrus accord reminds me of both Diorella (and therefore Eau Sauvage) from Dior and Rose d'Homme from Les Parfums de Rosine. Definitely a refined, sophisticated fragrance, a pleasure to experience as it is so spot on in its take on masculinity at the beginning of the last century, fascinating to me where other men's scents leave me cold. Perhaps a sort of Rudolph Valentino scent, with Brylcremed hair and moustache, it's actually a lilting fragrance. I do agree with frenchy below who describes the chlorine/bleach undertone in this in the drydown, something about how the vanilla mixes with the other basenotes listed (thank you!) in Dunanda Falls' review. I would certainly suggest this to fragrance connoisseurs who want to explore the Aromatic/Fougere family of fragrances, one I often personally find a mish mash of the other fabulous families--sort of reminds me of digestion of a fine meal in a both off putting and at the same time seductive way (!), a sort of Dinner by Bobo idea of a meal/scent that is both uplifting and comforting, a skin scent that would work well in most weather, and is actually quite discrete (maybe a bit TOO discrete for my tastes, which normally run towards heavy unusual "feminine" scents)--nevertheless and all said, a fascinating piece of history and IMHO a grand landmark, helping me to appreciate yet another facet of Guerlain. BTW I love the Jicky reference in the review below, must be the lavender and fresh notes, slightly different than Jicky but one could see the element of time and fashion involved in the creation. Strangely enough, this one could have been worn by Salvador Dali, a fabulous perfume supporter in his own right, without a problem. Glorious and worth checking out.

Long ago, I used to walk into my local S5A store were there was a store within a store Guerlain boutique. It was a cavernous, circular space in green where I first fell in love with all things Guerlain. There, all the classics lay for your tasting enjoyment. I am talking at the time where you could still purchase Derby in its classic blue box, Mouchoir came in a square bottle similar to classic Habit Rouge and Mitsouko was sold in the refillable dotted bottles. Nostalgia is a powerful motivator when it comes to frags. Mouchoir was not something I crave, but remember vaguely. Fast forward, after all the reviews about the fecal opening, blah blah blah, and the absolute absence of Mouchoir from any retail establishment except a few internet sites, I decided to get a bottle. My thoughts? A lovely comfort fragrance... my bottle’s skank is MINIMAL. With capital M. It has a strong resemblance to Shalimar. You could almost say this is Shalimar for hot weather or Shalimar lite. You also get a renewed respect and admiration for Jicky, that, when compared to Mouchoir evolves into a fresher, cleaner, highly sophisticated take on Mouchoir. They are family. But they are different. Guerlain has me by the you know what. It does for me what it’s any marketer’s wet dream: the dream of a life that was simpler, kinder, and yet, more sophisticated. Guerlain, with its classics, sells a dream. It sells an era. It sells a romantic aspiration that has been run over. And it does it amazingly well.

My opinion is that MdM is about two-thirds Jicky and one-third Eau du Coq/Imperiale/Eau du Guerlain. As such, it seems less animal/civet-y to me because the tart citrus at the top obscures the lactonic and funky nuances that seem exploded by Jicky's topnotes of oily lavendar, hothouse rosemary, and funky bergamot oil. A genius enfolding ensues of a tangy eau de cologne (I get lime, but I know it's not); a completely strange and compelling animalic on the baby-barf/milk breath axis; and the cinnamon-lavender-vanilla heart of Guerlain's orientals. Sometimes the Guerlinade and civet layers cross each other for a wonderfully round, comforting and smooth oriental. Sometimes the cologne sparkles and refreshes. Sometimes all three snap together and it's somehow a citric oriental in the same impossible way Vol de Nuit is somehow a warm-cool, oriental green chypre. And sometimes the civet and citruses strike up an Eau d'Hermes/Moustache smarmy citric leather. For me the challenging aspect is not the civet, but the moments that the Roudnitska-esque citric-leather pops out. That just so happens to be a particularly revolting accord to me, somehow redolent of sweating off your aftershave all day in a suit in an office in the 60s before the advent of antiperspirant. But like any true artwork, it's the internal tension and opposition that makes it brilliant, that gives it that "blessed unrest" which allows it to live and inspire for decades. Obviously, genius and irreplaceable.

Opening the box you are presented with a gorgeous bee styled bottle which is worthy of keeping after the juice inside is gone. I drenched my body all over with 12 sprays (why not lol) and waited. It opens with a musty lemony lavender and the fragrance is extremely subtle and stays close to the body even after 12 sprays.lol It stays like this for a half hour and I was trying hard not to come to judgement to quickly which I'm glad I did not as after that half hour the magic happens. The fragrance then unfurls into a symphony of notes. It gets slightly sweeter in powdery way and floral, I take another smell and I start to pick up different aspects of the symphony of notes. I could smell patchouli and some woods and a lot of fragrance notes constantly shifting and moving upon my skin in harmony. Wonderful It's amazing that a fragrance that starts off not to pleasant with the lemony lavender mustyness can unfold into a lovely orchestra of notes. I have had to re wire my brain differently in the way I judge fragrances as this scent seems to work completly differently to the usual modern day fragrances. Though the fragrance is very subtle and close to the skin it is a highly tuned fine piece of work that shows its magic after the first half hour. I'm impressed and will have to check out more old style Guerlains to see if I get that magic. Wonderful stuff!

Torn between love and hate for this perfume; there's a bad breath note in this (fake civet?) that just ruins it. However, I have the benefit of being intimately familiar with vintage formulas of both Jicky and Mouchoir. It may actually surprise you to know that the vintage formulas are actually *significantly* less fecally animalic and have no bad breath note. At all. They're deeper, richer, and muskier, but they don't have any breath funk whatsoever, and don't make you think 'yeesh, dirty' when you smell them. Theirry Wasser, who is currently reformulating the already several-times-reformulated classic Guerlain lineup, explained that Shalimar, Jicky, and Mouchoir all do in fact smell more fecal-animalic and lewd today than they did in the past, and only half as rich, because the quality and quantity of rounding ingredients has been made impossible to achieve these days by IFRA. I believe he's reformulated Jicky Extrait recently: picked up a newish looking tester and sprayed, and it smelled like the breathy-fecal note had been edited out, while the whole composition seemed richer than it has smelled in a long time. It doesn't smell like a truly vintage Jicky, but it does smell a lot better. Hope he does the same for Mouchoir, I really miss the old Mouchoir--many special memories attached to it.

Mouchoir de Monsieur is a beautiful, very "Guerlain" scent for men. It is definitely first cousin to Jicky as well. Basically the only difference is the "animalic" accord. Which is very animalic and then settles down into a very beautiful scent. It is reminiscent of not only Jicky, but Habit Rouge and Shalimar. All favorites of mine. I bought M de M because of it's striking similarity to Jicky. I wanted a muskier, dirtier Jicky and Monsieur definitely delivers that. But, and it is a big BUT, because this is only an eau de toilette concentration. All that glorious Guerlainade, leather and florals only last for about an hour before it dissipates into a very nice skin scent. I sprayed a whole lot on my chest too. I would occasionally get a nice whiff, but not what I was hoping for. This was my "bad" because I didn't check what the concentration was. I still like this fragrance very much, it's Guerlain after all. Guerlain can do no wrong IMO... But I would LOVE Mouchoir de Monsieur if it were an EDP that had more presence and lasting power. That's my only small complaint. So Guerlain, if you read these reviews on Fragrantica, please make an M de M in and EDP concentration. I promise I'll buy it!