Hermessence Cedre Sambac

Shadows and light: the contrast illuminates the spirit and draws attention to its inner depths. In Cedre Sambac, perfumer Christine Nagel demonstrates the importance between these two contrasts in bringing to relief the whole picture. Jasmine Sambac, voluptuous, seductive, but also white hot, is pulled in a drier, shadier direction through cedar. As if by some trickery, one brings out qualities in the other that wouldn’t be as noticeable if they were to stand alone. Maybe in addition to these two, Nagel included tuberose and sandalwood—or maybe, just maybe, one or the other is creating these illusions through their partnership. Above and beyond that, there are suggestions of charming scents that tickle my memory: pencil erasers (rubbers), brand new paperback books, hotel soaps, the interior of a hope chest, visits to Grossman’s (a now defunct chain similar to the Home Depot of today) with my Dad as a kid. But then it we go back to the shadows and light of the subject matter. Flowers and woods. Yin and Yang. Even maybe Ylang Ylang. While indoles are here, they are more oblique, and over time become unapparent. The subtle but persistent dry down, is more billowy, creamier, and it’s as if the cedar, rather than giving splinters, could melt in your mouth like one of those mints your grandmother would give you. Sometimes Nagel’s compositions elude and frustrate me, but much like Galop d’Hermes and Mauboussin Histoire d’Eau, this pleases me tremendously. Now I must try Violet Volynka and Archives 69.

This charmed me to begin with and that's what made me buy a small travel spray but I find it fascinating from a technical standpoint. The Jasmine note (accord even) is very interesting in that it's clearly emulating nature but from messing with Jasmine aroma chemicals (of which there are many) myself, I can sort of smell the genesis of this Jasmine note. For starters it seems less like a jasmine sambac to me, and although has traces of indole, which make it natural smelling, it's not a full whack of jasmine skank. This has that...inside of a banana, exotic, tropical fruit, funk and trace of ylang to it. It feels like a white flowers accord with aspects of tuberose too, and it's an interesting exercise for someone like me who is constructing recreations of florals like this to see how master perfumers like Nagel do it. Not only that but how it's carefully and skillfully blended with a woody base, that has the complimentary creaminess to accent the florals. The delivery...well it is mainly a jasmine fragrance to be honest and it lasts well and opens room filling but mellows well. I like it but it's not the most uplifting heavenly jasmine I've tried in my life.

[Feb. 2023] (... Continued from my review of Muguet Porcelaine.) Hermessence Sambac is a lactonic floral of which its indole is as creamy as lotion but the flower light as a breeze. It's no sampaguita, and it's not like the jasmines outside the garden either. The drydown reminds me of Do Son, but its nowhere as soapy or tingly-sharp as Do Son. Hermessence Sambac remains lightly warm and creamy for a duration of its run without a hint of greens or smoke, it is mostly a Jasmine solinote but never tiring to me. One of my favourite florals for its delicate balance of appearing lightweight without evaporating into nothing so soon. It lasts for 4-5 hours but on fresh clothes, it remained the next day. It does recall the newly discontinued Tom Ford Santal Blush, but Cedre Sambac doesn't smell like powder, smell sharp, or tingle the nose like the former. It also doesn't smell "cute" like Santal Blush (peach note?) Though not the same, I feel this made a good replacement for Santal Blush. Much creamier. Regardless, my go-to fragrance to pair with Muguet Porcelaine from my travel set. And with Osmanthe Yunnan, an enjoyable asiatic-styled tea bouquet experience.

Exactly what it says on the tin. You expect something more like Jo Malone’s two ingredient, well-blended and pleasant but soulless signature, but this is beautifully done, and this is coming from someone who can definitely find jasmine sickly at times. The sweet and sensuous character of the sambac jasmine (be sure to temper your expectations if you’re more familiar with european jasmine grandiflorum - this is a distinct smell to that) is perfectly balanced with the vigour and strength of an equally sensuous, slightly smoky cedarwood here. Opening is jasmine heavy, then depending on your body temperature and the weather anywhere between 5 mins to an hour in the cedarwood joins the party fully. It’s an addictive and creamy smooth scent which is sexy and seductive but with just enough restraint to keep it classy and PG-13 - it’s a skimpy dress or partially unbuttoned shirt, not full frontal nudity or lingerie if that analogy is helpful.

This smells so good. Very underrated. It’s cedar and jasmine in equal parts, neither overpowering the other. It has a crisp clean feel, reminding me of fresh washed clothes drying on a clothes line by a cedar tree. Takes me back to sunny spring days as a kid playing outside. Woody without being too harsh, floral without being too feminine. The jasmine just floats on the edge, never getting too indolic or too intense, and the cedar never feels inanimate like furniture. Hermessence line gets a bad wrap for being “too fleeting” but I think each one is designed exactly as they should be, with high quality ingredients and thoughtfully made; not trying to be some best seller powerhouse. If this fragrance was stronger it would be terrible. But as it is, it’s the perfect ethereal swirl of fresh cut cedar, with a slightly powdery floral sprinkling of jasmine. Invigorating. Lasts plenty long enough and projects just as much as it should.