Eau de Joy

(Review of a 1980s bottle) I feel like I could write about Joy ad nauseum, but since I’ve already reviewed the extrait and the EdT - and I’m running out of superlatives, and also grievances for the way this storied brand has been treated (thank you LVMH/Dior) - I will spare you all nauseous repetition, and simply describe Eau de Joy EdP. The primary thing to note about the EdP more so than the extrait and even the EdT is that the focal point is the dry down. The EdT’s intention is to hold on to that sublime and heavenly blend of roses and jasmine for as long as it can, even though it doesn’t have the muster before going to the sandalwood base - and you can sense that in the dry down; the extrait holds onto the sublime and heavenly blend of roses and jasmine for hours upon hours. The EdP holds onto the florals for only a little bit longer than the EdT before seeming to shift gears to focus solely on the dry down with more muscularity and determination than the EdT could hope to put forth. This is not really a surprise, right? - EdPs are supposed to be a middle-ground between an extrait and an EdT concentration. But, I would argue, the EdP holds to that signature floral heart for a shorter period of time than you would expect. Is it at a loss for doing so? Is it writing itself off as pointless? You buy the extrait and the EdT, and the EdP becomes redundant? I don’t believe so. Where the EdP makes a connection to the statement that is Jean Patou's Joy in a way the other two formats do not is with musks. This is the most “animalic” of the Joy formats, but do not take that to mean it is a civet bomb. It is not nearly as urinous, fecal, or otherwise animalic as several reviews would make you believe; it just seems that way to people who are perhaps not used to these yesteryear perfumes. You will not smell this and think Jicky or Kouros. A significant reason for this is the barely lingering floral heart that touches the base like a gentle caress, giving the ever so slightest of lifts needed to the sandalwood and animalic base. The result is an achingly gorgeous floral and animalic sandalwood perfume, as opposed to the straight abstract floral of the extrait or the floral sandalwood base of the EdT. I mentioned that the animalics are not much to worry about for those sensitive to civet/fecal/urinous notes, yet go on to mention that this is what separates the EdP from the extrait and especially the EdT. Before you think that I am contradicting myself, I want to reiterate a point long lost to 21st century perfumery and its connoisseurs: big differences can be made by little things. In a reformatting today, this EdP would be a no-holds-barred woody or soapy-musky affair, amplified to deafening levels of nose-bleeding proportions. Not in the 1950s though, as this was Joy reformatted in the classic and tried-and-true way of making sure the summation of little differences lead to a noticeable yet nuanced change in the big picture. But everything I’ve said so far is whatever. Eau de Joy is still Joy, and it’s still one of the best - if not the best - of modern perfumery, full-stop. Sorry, I know I said at the beginning that I wouldn't but I just can't - I love Joy no matter what.

A kind fragrantica member gave me a decant of this vintage beauty. Eau de Joy is very similar to the original Joy which I own. I find w/ the Eau de Joy the aldehydes are less pronounced, and the civet is amplified. Eau de Joy is less floral than the original Joy and more of an animalic musk w/ florals, where the original Joy is a floral perfume w/ an animalic base. If you want a Joy w/ more animalic musk and toned-down florals this is a good way to go if you can find a well-preserved bottle on Ebay. This is a very skanky musky floral and you have to love real civet musk to appreciate this. The May rose in here is the same as in the original Joy for my nose it really shines, and I have always felt that the May rose does not take a back seat to the jasmine in Joy and she doesn't in Eau de Joy either. A beautifully crafted old school animalic floral of yesteryear. Again, similar to the original but muskier, and the aldehydes, green notes and florals are softened slightly. Just stunning.

A very generous Fragrantician shared a 10 ml decant of EDJ with me. I already own the EDP and the EDT, and this is such an amazing surprise to me! I never expected a perfume with such a dominant civet note to work so well on my skin!! I am going by one spritz to the back of my hands, but I already think she may be my favorite of the three. Yes, the civet is there and in your face for about the first half hour, so if that doesn't work for you, this might not be your jam. However, when she settles down a bit and the somewhat indolic jasmine and rose come out to play, the civet grounds it all in a sexy, sophisticated manner and I just can't get enough of it. An animalic floral done to perfection, one I consider a masterpiece. EDIT - just reread my review and noticed that I failed to mention that I purchased a full splash bottle a while ago. I prefer a spray so I decant into an atomizer as needed. Still beautiful and timeless!

This is a review for a vintage bottle that I got for a good price on eBay. When I unscrewed the top I expected to be smacked around the face by an angry civet cat then choked by the I doles. Instead I got a happy, purring civet and the most beautiful jasmine I have smelled in a perfume so far. One YouTube reviewer suggested that one dab is enough but I have hit all my pulse points and I am surrounded in a warm bubble of tropical air in which the jasmine and distant roses set the scene. This is yet more proof that bucking the trend for modern perfume can pay off in bucket loads. I won't be wearing it often because I want to make it last and savour every minute. Totally unisex in my opinion but then again I wear what I like and don't bow to convention. You carry on with your Sauvage, I'll command the room with my exotic pet on a solid gold leash, we can still be friends. I am yet to meet an animalic that I don't like.

I'm on my second bottle and I've got TWO backups- my STILL CELLOPHANE-SEALED bottles are OLD but they were stored in air-conditioned darkness for DECADES... the two (BIG) bottles I've got left are both from the 1960s (one might be early 70s) and the current one I'm using is also 70s so beware, the civet is real and trust me you'll know it by the time you reach the drydown... This (along with the extrait) has to be one of the best fragrances ever created... The name is appropriate: JOY.... It truly is... I'm a guy and I unabashedly wear this out and fairly often get asked what I've got on-- for an EDP is got some serious weight and longevity... It's GORGEOUS stuff... It is not merely a weaker version of the parfum... It really is something else entirely and it is absolutely worth owning both... I can't praise them enough.