Invitation

I tested the parfum concentration from a mid-size decant of what I assume is the 1980s reissue of Invitation. I smell sandalwood more than anything else, but it’s a light, dry, bright sandalwood perked up with citrus and aromatic herbs. Whatever it is, it’s like the sandalwood that’s in my late 80s vintage Samsara, without any of the vanilla and sweet stuff. As it dries down, there’s some spice, maybe some very dry cinnamon and/or cloves. Together with the orange, it produces a mildly spiced tea-carnation note, but one that’s not at all prickly or sweet. In fact, there’s nothing prickly, sweet, or floral about this fragrance. It is smooth, dusty, dry woodiness in its purest form. This perfume, designed in 1932, would smell surprisingly niche-contemporary were it not for the superior quality of the sandalwood that was used. I would characterize Invitation as a sophisticated straight-ahead sandalwood scent that would be equally wonderful on a woman or man. Sillage is moderate but insistent and, of course, lasting power is phenomenal. I love, love, love it and wish I had a full bottle!

Pre-Ma perfume review. Invitation reminds me of Joy. It is heavier on dirty rose while Joy on jasmine. A sensual animalic perfume that matched the roaring 20's. A very successful blind buy! Its note pyramid is totally different from our database. It is much closer to the one from Jean Patou Perfumes blog - Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, tangerine. Middle notes: carnation, cinnamon, cloves, mint, thyme, rosemary, rose. Base notes: patchouli, vetiver, benzoin, honey, cedar, labdanum, oakmoss, musk, sandalwood, ambergris.