Chypre de Grand

A theme I’ve definitely noticed having gone through the Maksim lineup is a desire to take old, popular, and/or trendy structures, subvert in some unusual way and push them to an extreme whilst still keeping them recognizable. The traditional chypre is a shoe-in for a perfumer like Maxim Bortnikov; if it’s a wood based structure, he’s going to make a noble attempt. Chypre de Grand is subversive like many others in the current lineup, but not really pushed to an obvious extreme. Maxim’s penchant for dark, muscular, and superbly rich compositions is firmly intact in this contrary presentation of the citrusy, effervescent, floral, clean, classic masculine chypre. The opening contains a blend of old school and modern hesperidics, mainly bitter bergamot, a bit of ripe and sweetened lime, and pink and slightly sulfurous grapefruit. In Bortnikov’s signature style, again, do not expect bright and refreshing effervescence. These hesperidics are all oily zests and rinds, slick and viscous; greens, yellows, and pinks all given a slight shade brown. Then my heart is arrested by one of the best floral hearts to a masculine chypre that I’ve smelled in a long time. Fleshy, slightly fruity and powdery, and woody roses are given resinous earthy notes that add a tasteful touch of sweetness and spice. The combination of beeswax and a beautiful licorice note is inspired. The floral sweet waxiness is finery draped over the rose, with the rooty, gourmand, and anisic licorice adding a fertile and loamy dimension. A very gentle smokiness from slowly smoldering aromatic woods adds considerable dimension to help the licorice with its task of bringing depth to the otherwise top-heavy notes of the heart layer. The trademark muscularity of Maksim compositions feels more taught and lean, athletic and coordinated, than outright muscular. The base is heavily laden with Maxim’s favorite and excellent cedar material, highly aromatic and peppery, with criss-crossed labdanum, patchouli, and moss that exist as a coherent whole. I was sold pretty much immediately the first day of wearing Chypre de Grand. Much like Cologne d’Agar, Chypre de Grand takes something achingly familiar, twists it, and gives it burly muscle and richness. In this manner Chypre de Grand feels a bit more familiar with its lack of oud and much tamer rose, therefore it shouldn’t be assumed that these two are going to be close enough to require a firm question of one or the other. Nor does it yet feel as though Maxim Bortnikov is being thematically repetitive despite his presentations having near identical personalities. It is at this point in my exploration of the brand’s current lineup, with all of my thoughts nearly finalized, that I recognize his unique voice as not monotonous but rather under superb control capable of subtlety; the rare vocalist capable of expertly singing R&B, pop, and rock yet always still sounding like themself. Another excellent piece of work from a brand and perfumer that should be paid close attention to.

The subtle emanation, the impalpable aura that envelops and defines Chypre de Gran... A liquid poem exhaled from nothingness to caress the soul. Its essence, far from beaten paths and olfactory evidence, rises like an ancient murmur, a confidence whispered in the ear of time. Imagine a diaphanous dawn rising over unknown lands, where the scents of primordial lands mix with the exhalations of distant stars. The memory of a garden suspended in the skies, where imaginary flowers with iridescent corollas distil nectars with unsuspected flavors. The opening is not a simple juxtaposition of notes, but a lyrical envolée, an impalpable melody that stretches like a golden thread through consciousness. Citrus zest, of course, but filled with a solar sap captured at the precise moment in which the light embraces their peel. These lively and sparkling scents are not a simple freshness, but the echo of a crystalline laugh, the promise of a journey beyond known horizons. The heart beats with a profound emotion, a telluric vibration where the delicacy of a rose, not earthly but ethereal, merges with the smoky swirls of a sacred wood, burning on a forgotten altar. This smoke is not acrid, but vaporous, bearer of mysteries and ancestral spells. And then, this singular note, this rare essence coming from lands where time itself seems to flow differently... It is neither completely sweet, nor completely spicy, but an elusive nuance, a well-kept secret that intrigues and enchants, like an alchemical filter. The base, finally, is an indelible imprint left on the veil of reality. It is the reminiscence of an enchanted forest bathed by the moon, where the moss of the centuries-old trees exudes a noble melancholy and where the subtle breath of a distant land confers an abysmal depth without ever weighing down the spirit. Creating a new olfactory language, a grammar of new sensations, Here... the proof that elegance is not a simple repetition of the past, but a creative audacity that draws on the imagination to offer a transcendent experience. Other artwork from Maksim perfumes @parfumez_moi on Instagram

This is a masculine-leaning chypre with strong, animalic beeswax, classic herbal aromatics, real animal musk, inky natural oakmoss, and a splash of lime. The musk is an animal-derived musk and it’s very apparent...there is a rawness to this fragrance that, at least for me, reminds me of older musky and masculine chypres from yesteryear, and it helps elevate CdG’s luxury. The oakmoss is also very classic chypre since it’s real, super inky and earthy, and the way it ping pongs with the beeswax and musk is super interesting. Dewy florals are present, and it adds an almost petrichor vibe to the honey notes coming from the beeswax. The result is a deeply resinous, dynamic and challenging fragrance that can be worn by confident individuals during the day and evening, in any weather but hot and humid. I really dig it, and it’s probably the most natural-smelling potion in my collection. 9.4/10

Chypre de Grand reminds me of the ending of the movie The Menu, where Anya Taylor-Joy's character asks the chef to make her a plain cheeseburger. Sometimes, in perfumery as well as food, a good thing doesn't need to be, to quote the movie, "fancy, deconstructed, affluent bullshit," it can just be a pure and enjoyable thing. Chypre de Grand is a traditional chypre. Citrus: bergamot and lime, animalics: beeswax and deer musk, floral: rose, resins: styrax and labdanum, and woods in the base in the form of oakmoss, patchouli, and cedar. Just a great chypre, no frills, no deconstructed affluent bullshit. Of course, the ingredients here are top tier and well worth the high price tag. Longevity is insane. Will last until you take a shower, and maybe longer. I'm not a huge fan of chypres, but this one is done so well that I'm actually coming to enjoy it a lot. Bravo, Maksim!

Chypre de Grand opens with a tremendous chord of old-fashioned chypre goodness; at once sharp-green and dark-resinous. It has terrific dignity and presence. The lime, in particular, really pops, before sinking into mossy depths. In the heart it's soft, breathy, and brown. The musks keep it fluffy, and the resin/citrus/moss balance perches perfectly between bitter and sweet. There are fruity chypres, floral chypres, leather chypres, etc; Chypre de Grand is "just chypre", the essential core without distractions. Chypres are a traditionally feminine genre of scent, but this one is angular and unadorned enough to feel more unisex. It has enough classic glamour and swagger for anyone. (Yes, the name is fake French. I don't know why these people can put so much effort into a fragrance and not spend a few seconds to check the name...)