L'Élu

Oh L'Elu, I love you. This perfume single-handedly shaped my olfactory preferences. When I was a child I used to steal this little bottle from my mother's dresser and carry it around the house with me, taking it from its bag to smell now and then. Now I run headlong towards any perfume featuring rose, oakmoss, ylang-ylang, or amber. Not listed here is another note that I consider an old friend, which is cedar. I never tried to wear it; the small amount in the bottle seemed too precious to waste, so I can't say anything for its longevity or sillage. However in the bottle, it has a richness that feels expensive to the nose, like the purest, finest oils have been brought back dropperful by dropperful to mingle in this tiny, delicate bottle with its crystal facets. The strongest note to me is ylang-ylang, which bolsters the rose and narcissus into a fully indolic scent that seems to stretch and yawn as you bend down to take it in. The combination of amber and cedar makes you feel like you are sitting at the fine, hand-carved vanity of a great lady who wears many expensive oils, and overall the effect is one of pure luxury. The velvet or brocade drawstring pouches they are sold in only adds to the experience. It feels like a treasure that's just yours to hold. It's such a shame that the larger bottles of this are so rare and expensive (and always empty), because I'd love to experience the joy of fully dousing myself in L'Elu for the first time. As it is, I plan to buy myself my own enchanted miniature very soon. I will wear it sparingly, with the care that it's due, until it's nearly gone. Then I'll leave it on my dresser for whatever small hands might reach for it.

I just opened my baudruchage-sealed old version of this (cristal flacon) and it's incredibly well preserved. Opens up a bit overwhelming with many florals, I believe these might be ylang ylang, narcissus, rose, a little tuberose so alltogether the opening is quite opulent. After ten minutes on skin it settled and I fell for it head over heels, it's then an elegant, dark powdery, mossy, and playfully musky, mossy, civety, suede leathery, woody, subtle spicy vintage creation. If I had to compare it to other vintage scents I own I would put say it's closest to "Raphael Réplique" but wayyyy more intense and long lasting, with the addictive base of "Zibeline by Weil", meaning it has this nice furry feel to it, but in a darker manner. There is a LOT of iris here, which in combination with the moss and musks adds to this soft and cuddly sensation of this fragrance while darker notes add sensuality. This is sexy yet super elegant, strong projection and very long lasting especially for a vintage scent that has seen so many decades. I feel incredibly lucky to own this thanks to a friend that found a set of three in Switzerland and will now cherish this forever. A real treasure for vintage lovers.

I'm back again just to say, my miniature arrived today and I was able to try L'Elu by Marquay on my skin for the very first time. The sillage is excellent for the first few hours, then becomes apparent only to those within arms length. It lasts nearly all day as a skin scent before fading away without a whisper. Despite its longevity, L'Elu's dry down is fairly linear - and I prefer it this way. It shines its brightest from the moment you put it on, and retains its scent profile throughout its entire life. Everything I said below holds true for my skin as well as the bottle. Moreso, with the amplifying effect of warm skin. With L'Elu in my nose, I felt pampered, expensive, and sophisticated. Again, what a shame I can only find it in such small flacons. I'd love to have this in one of those massive, intricate, Guerlain style bottles.

A jewel from the past in a small crystal bottle. It starts with very strong ylang-ylang and narcissus, surrounded by woodsy tones and an amber base, that are elaborated in a very sophisticated old way. It reminds me of "Indiscret" by Lucien Lelong, another legendary perfume from the 30's and "Joy" by Jean Patou, but in a different way than the first. It is sweet and persistent. I would rate it 8/10.