Sleight of Fern

Second review two full wears later: The opening is very morning fresh and a testament to the close relation between the fougère category of perfumery and barbershop. Lavender and thyme are quite distinct, together with a source of coumarin that I cannot quite recognise. I love the pun on the fougère that the name carries: A sleight – an illusion – of fern is exactly the artistic imagery of the naturalism art scene in the 1870s from which this category emerged. Historically aesthetics was on its way to evolve Into symbolism and eventually towards impressionism. The thing is that fern smells of very little in and by it self, but the imagery of it is so strong that the sight of the plant is unconsciously connected with the scentscape the observer was in, like the forest bed, the floral coumarin from woodruff, plants that have not yet bloomed, birch trees sprouting, a soil that is still moist after winter and in the midst of the transformation of being the graveyard of yesteryear to becoming the birthplace of the new. Eventually, that is exactly where this Sleight of Fern is taking me: From the bathroom and out in the open, as it transforms into a very nice illusion of exactly that forest. I would personally say it is far from as camphorous as the great original fougères such as Trumper’s Wild Fern or Penhaligon’s. It feels a lot more subdued and elegant, although there is a soothing effect remaining throughout the wearing time. I was at one point unsure if something similar to birch tar would go too far in the direction of rough bitumen, but it remains perfectly in place giving a nice, woody-earthy sting instead. Some people are very specific about when to wear what, but I think a sleight of fern is just what you need in the midst of the winter frost to give you some optimism. It is subtle and well-mannered enough for every occasion throughout the year in fact.

I don’t quite understand the sweetness people are getting from this. The reference to Mousse Illuminee either, and that someone thought it was sweeter than that. Mousse has a sweetness that someone described as being similar to grape. I wouldn’t say that I agree with that 100 percent, but it isn’t a bad description when trying to categorize the note, and that fragrance is the sweetest barbershop type fragrance that I have. To each nose their own, I know we all have a different sense of smell and taste, but to me the frontline notes are very green and herbal. I wouldn’t say there’s zero sweetness to this, maybe in the background/supporting notes; however, I wouldn’t ever describe it as anything but sharp, herbal green. The geranium, thyme, birch and oakmoss are what notes I would say I agree with most, as an overall genre description. That being said, I love this fragrance. It’s so interesting and unique. While I also wouldn’t say that it’s anything like Invasion Barbare, I’m not surprised at all that it’s the same perfumer. I liked Invasion right away, but didn’t love it until a few wears of it. I’d also say in a contest between the two, Invasion would win. That could change in time though, as I’ve had that for a longer period of time than Sleight of Fern. Very good performance and projection on me. Not a safe blind buy, but I would recommend to anyone who likes this genre to give this a try.

I’ve fallen for a fougère (fern) for the first time in my life; and what a formula it is! Absolutely magnificent.... One sniff was enough; then came the sample, and finally, the bottle. It’s a perfect all-season scent. It’s both distant and embracing at once. The combination of red thyme, mastic, and birch makes it magnetic, mysterious, and cold, while a touch of tonka lends a subtle warmth beneath. The heart unfolds with geranium and other solemn florals, grounded by a distinct lavender and a mossy undertone that hints at chypre structure; nostalgic yet modern. I keep mentioning contrasts, but that’s exactly what makes it so beautiful. Catching that hidden mossy character in the base feels rewarding to uncover. Birch and mastic are among my soft sports; they give a fragrance that “a poised and distant kind of beauty” quality and the red thyme (along betula) adds a leathery, enigmatic edge. So many notes sing in harmony here, each with its own voice. Truly unisex. Longevity and projection are moderate, but with a few extra sprays, it reaches its full potential. My partner and I both wear it. A “dark warmth” I’m truly grateful to have discovered. Tag(s): Enigmatic, austere, dark warmth, mysterious, chypre-fougère

Reviewing sample from 2023. Slight of Fern was launched in 2022. This is a savory faintly floral fougere. Spectacular herbal opening - mostly red thyme, the lavender is subtle. The bergamot and fig are barely there. The mastic adds freshness and a resinous undertone. I then sense suede although there is no leather in the notes . There are some possible sources- perhaps birch peaking through from the basenotes or maybe the thyme or narcissus both of which can have leather facets. After some time, the florals start to bloom -mostly geranium. I don't know where the tuberose has gone. The drydown is a pleasant mix of faded florals , patchouli and aromatic woods. This fragrance is neither sweet, powdery or smoky. Beautifully blended and creative. Quality - excellent 4/5 Unisex Performance -very good 4/5 Innovative take on a fougere. Yes, this is definitively a slight of fern .Unique, modern and versatile. As with all unique niche fragrances testing on your skin is advised even with a beautiful fragrance like this. 8.8/10

update: would make an excellent signature scent, maybe 25 years plus, doesn't smell dated at all but smells "manly,mature" a "boss/ceo" scent wow this is badass! modern twist on "classic" green scents.. captivating blend here that also smells great. I could see this being a Creed relese.. as it smells like a mix BDP, Royal Water, Royal Mayfair, GIT, some of the slightly odd cleaness from Viking too. I mean that all in the best way possible, like if Creed would have smelled this they would have slapped Oliver as a co perfume and payed up. Out the gate actually reminded me of absinthe from Wolfsbane by parfums cortana? dry down kinda smells like it too but not the mid really. Something if you did an initial spray of and asked most woemen they would probably say no, BUT if you were to be walking by and smell this in the air no way it wont grab attention, mysterious, alluring. I gotta get a bottle.