Cuir Cavalier

So cuir Cavalier is a no holds barred leather. A modern, twangy, patent leather, jockstrap of a thing. Masses of saffron adorn this fragrance and pretty much dominate and having used saffron extensively I can attest that real good Iranian/Spanish Saffron tinctures are quite fleeting things, despite their power they are true top notes. This is a carefully constructed and realistic saffron accord, perfectly complimented by castoreum and oud (I suspect) which are fixing and giving similar dense, yet transparent qualities. The tingle that this gives to your nose is quite something to behold. It's not woody particularly and animal-like rather than truly animalic. I detected a faint, wet floral in the opening too, freshening and giving a marginally more classic direction to what is essentially a pretty modern fragrance. Immediately I described the aesthetic as 'floral leather' in the same way I would with Cuir de Russie (Chanel) or something? Not that they smell anything alike. I look forward to wearing this for it's bite and it's purrr and because I love saffron, but I've a feeling this might polarise. Update 11/02/26 Well six years later and I find my review above not comprehensive because I glossed over the rose in this perfume and the vegetal, tomato leaf sort of facet which kinda comes with saffron in a strange way. All of this conjures a leather accord and the rose is clearly a big player, the saffron more so in the opening but they go together like peas and carrots and revisiting this again today I'm taken with how much it resembles some slightly crude fumbling's into perfumery I had attempted myself. This is not me besmirching a talented, professional perfumer but perhaps speaks to my reckless overdose of extremely expensive natural saffron and rose absolute materials. Clearly this has more refinement but has a rawness and visceral immediacy which I respect but don't necessarily love.

This opening is reminiscent of Histories De Parfums 1.3, but done better. Into the heart and it's starting to remind me of Kilian Rose Oud and by default, Gold Oudwhich I love. This has the additional note of leather, and isn't quite as fruity or rose dominant. The drydown reminds me of Kilian Musk Oud, but I prefer this as musk oud can give me a migraine. I love the way the orange, saffron, rose, cypriol, musk and leather work together here. It smells so deep, luxurious, and expensive. This would pair well with a Tom Ford suit. Cuir Cavalier is seriousand polished. It feels like a sleek black luxury car. I love all the fragrances I've mentioned, and if you're looking for a rose oud saffron, MDCI Cuir Cavalier should 100% be on your list to try. When I run out of these other fragrances I've mentioned in the coming years, it will be on my list to buy. Scent 94/100 Comparisons: Histories De Parfums 1.3 Kilian Rose Oud Kilian Gold Oud Kilian Musk Oud Roja AO

I feel like this is a modern interpretation of the painting. Rather than a horse this man rides a racing bike, wearing a perfectly tailored and polished black biker jacket with metal accents glistening in the sun like they are a part of the bike itself. A smoky black leather dominates a light but persistent sour rose. I really just get back leather and rose, a touch of metal and smoke and with a bit of vanilla and oud creeping in at the late dry down, although it never becomes very sweet. There is a heavy dose of saffron here but it’s very smooth (not the fuzzy saffron of Oud for greatness) giving the impression of polished leather, the rose adding a kiss of romance. Performance and longevity are powerful, four spays will last all day and that’s the aura this gives - powerful, a bit dangerous, irresistible on the homme or femme fatale type.

There's a natural tanginess to rose that Nathalie Feisthauer has accentuated by adding lots of saffron to it; and of course rose blends beautifully with leather. This opens very sharply, but then smooths down to something genuinely softer and romantic. MDCI Parfums are too expensive for my blood; but for those who can afford it, this is a lovely and unusual choice. Just a few drops (or one spritz) fills an entire room.

Do you remember those plastic beach balls we used to play with as kids on the beach? That's what this smells like to me, it's strange, but very nice. Cant wait to see how this develops, and what my nose picks up after multiple wears