Nuit Élastique

There I am, at the homestretch, feeling as though I have pretty much smelled what I've needed to for more than a lifetime, and I am again, lured by a concept. Those concepts, they get me every time. I read an online review: "smells like your chain smoking grandpa blowing bubbles." For that alone, I knew I had to test it. I then take a good look at the image of a bottle: a gourd shaped reservoir of olive-colored liquid suspended in a glass enclosure, not unlike Cartier L'Envol, but even more eye-catching. The script at the bottom, reminiscent of the futuristic Y2K aesthetic, reads 'Nuit Élastique.' Now bottles even get me, too, but often a new and trendy line will release their output in gorgeous bottles, but that's where the thrill ends. Just as as Aretha Franklin, when asked in an interview for her thoughts on Taylor Swift, she responds with "great gowns, beautiful gowns." The presentation may dazzle, but the contents will leave much to be desired. Not with this Nuit Élastique. When I first smelled it, I was shocked by own immediate approval of its opening. Often, there is at least a bit of time to contemplate what I am processing. A bold olive-brine-saturated jasmine, humid and indolic, greets me. There is this satisfying salinity and just the most subtle outline of smoke (grandpa?) that I perceive as it further takes shape on my skin. A bouquet and Benson & Hedges. It truly grows fuller and fleshier as my skin heats up the molecules. There is also this herbaceous, savory element, like thyme, that I discern, and there is a phase that reminds me of the smell of wallflowers. And then, a certain neoprene sensation that enters the fore, and this is what I regard as the pièce de résistance, as the interplay between this and the jasmine is hypnotic to me. There is a genius of ambiguity here between what is perceived to be natural and synthetic. Yet, never am I getting the feeling of the unnatural, there isn't a sense that yes, this is artificial, as my mind can recall that yes, often ripe white flowers can have a rubber or latex element. In fact even latex itself can be natural or synthetic. It's like handling delicate space age posies while wearing nitrile gloves and sipping black tea. Then I realized, even the name itself makes sense: an elasticity in the darkness of night. It stretches, snaps back, keeps its original form even as time progresses. A clean and dirty duality- stretching in, stretching out. So many positions but held in place. It doesn't decay in the typical manner, and it seduces without any strident fortissimo that so many current releases rely upon for attention-grabbing impact and a lasting impression. The perfumer's technique here is praise-worthy. I am absolutely astonished with this Nuit Élastique.

Nuit Élastique walks a delicate line between elegance and intrigue. It feels like entering a velvet-lit jazz bar, a mix of shadow, silk, and rhythm. It opens with flair, alive with florals and smooth warmth. On my skin, the florals bloom more than I usually wear, yet they add undeniable sophistication. It’s expressive, emotional, and perhaps a touch romantic, a fragrance that reveals itself best when worn at night. It’s not an everyday scent for me, but it’s one I respect deeply, the kind of perfume you reach for when you want to feel something, not just smell good.

I really like Nuit Élastique. It is my favorite from the house. I got a sample set, which I recommend. I had to pay import fees though. This fragrance opens with a bold, loud, spicy, tangy and salty jasmine/white floral accord. It feels fairly unisex. It is definitely unique. I do get the "latex accord". It smells better than it sounds, thankfully. Projection and sillage are good. Longevity is average. 8/10 and a 4.2 from me.

After it won an Art & Olfaction Award I bought the sample set to see what all the fuss was about. Overall the scent is... ok. It's a gentle white floral with some interesting twists, but it hardly feels like a truly niche creation. It's neither very indolic, nor very latex-like. The plastic smell reminds me of one I pick up in Elizabeth Arden Green Tea. Maybe my expectations were just too high, but these bottles just deserved better scents, especially at this price point. From the rest of the line-up I liked Gravitas Capitale and Albatre Sepia. Creations from Claire Liegent were huge miss for me. PS. Beaufort London Sirenide "plastic" note blows this out of the water in my opinion.

Smells like your chain smoking grandpa blowing bubbles

Trying this out as part of the tester set. I can see how people like this, but personally not for me. All I’m getting is salty/olive base, with a sharp, almost sour ‘tang’, which just isn’t my style or palette - but as I said, I can see the beauty in it. It’s blended well with the jasmine to give it a bit more lightness. Doesn’t seem to project well at all off my hand, I have to get very up close and personal to get a whiff of this. Unfortunately not quite my taste, I like sweeter stuff but also more earthy/spice, so my recommendations so far from the brand would be Albatre Sepia & Insuline Safrine, with an honourable shout to Doppel Dancers as a pleasant crowd pleaser - safe but nothing extraordinarily unique.

A pretty but unisex jasmine that reminds me of Ombre & Lumiere by Armani Privé, an outrageously expensive and impossible to find limited release, so it could be a nice fill-in for fans of that one. It smells vastly different on fabric than on my skin but I really don’t get the latex note and I suppose the olive is a quickly passing savory flavor in the early stages that could be a trick done with immortelle? While I like this, I’ve yet to find one from the line that really grabs me. 3 out of 5.

I bought the discovery set and this one stood out for me the most. I have never smelled a fragrance quite like this, and it works so well. If I could change anything it would be less latex and more of the olive, but it is still a beautiful scent. Definitely full-bottle worthy

Would you believe me if I said I adored this until I realized it smells exactly like ivory bar soap