Flos Mortis

Holy Moly! why is this - Flos Mortis - from Rogue Perfumery not talked about more. Heck, why is Rogue not talked about more. Well whatever, I’m just happy I know about this house that’s all... Such incredibly humble prices for perfumes that in my opinion are richer, more organic smelling and balanced than Ultra luxury houses like Roja Perfumes, Xerjoff, Clive Christian or Boadecia the Victorious. I feel that true art must display its value in execution not price. Price is the fraud of art it overrates it while true art is not priced high because it is confident in itself to be priced higher in the minds of its audience - Guerlain, Caron, Jean Desperez etc. Flos Mortis is an astonishing chypre, it is a shockingly appetizing and well blended tuberose and jasmine. It smells like Jasmine Oolong tea. It reminds me of when I lived in Indonesia. A cold jasmine oolong sweet tea beverage to drink on a commute. Colors I imagine when smelling the scent are a cherry, burgundy or maroon red, exactly like the color of the juice. An exotic, sweet, moody, fresh, bitter and dark gourmand created by two flowers that I am unrelentingly testy about but with a heavy hand of realistic rubbery, bloody leather and a fat, pungent, cluster of red curants to make it lovable. What an obscene concoction. This has made me want to seek out more jasmine and tuberose fragrances, but I will first gather Rouge’s. The rubbery, fatty leather paired with a juicy, tart, and jammy red currant gives the blend a hearty, bitter and metallic tea note on top of the massive jasmine, and the jasmine uses the tuberose as a sweetener to this tea. I am ready to consume and be cleansed. I am absolutely in love with this one, please bring it back. 🌸☕️🐮 10/10

Flos Mortis is the second Rogue Perfumery fragrance that I'm reviewing, after Champs Lunaires. While Champs Lunaires offers an enchanting, likeable interpretation of the mighty tuberose, Flos Mortis is a bit more challenging - but no less rewarding. As its name suggests, it is very Goth and truly unisex (even genderless) - just like death does not discriminate... Interestingly I don't feel the indolic components of either tuberose or jasmine very strongly in this fragrance (e.g I've owned several Lush and Carthusia fragrances that are much more indolic than this one). I would say that this is an old-school, yet somehow very contemporary scent. Tuberose, jasmine and osmanthus are present from the beginning to the end, joined by red currants, a very animalic leather and equally animalic musk, in that particular order. Osmanthus even manages to overpower the other two flowers; its fruity yet heavy aspects are stunningly amplified by red currant, leather and musk. As other reviewers have mentioned, the opening is quite camphorous, until the fruity facets take over. So, this fragrance is best described as floral-fruity-animalic. The opening is quite strong; it can even be gagging (at least to the uninitiated), but then it settles into something much more pleasant and wearable. If you love the goth aesthetics, or simply have a penchant for the dark side, then do try this one.

Since it wasn't brought back in the latest batch of bell jars and the Gratte-Ciel bottles are discontinued, Tubéreuse Criminelle seems to be relegated to the vault currently. Flos Mortis is reportedly its closest approximation and a rare spiritual successor. I'm glad Manuel Cross is tackling this profile, even in the echoes of a legend; it feels completely coherent with the rest of the Rogue lineup and is an obviously high quality creation in its own right. It's a kaleidoscopic tuberose: green, fleshy, and carnal. I pick up on narcotic and camphorous edges, but none of it reads as overly indolic to me. I seem to process the untamed aspects as freshness rather than decay. What it truly evokes for me is tea, specifically over-steeped jasmine green tea. I find it deeply comforting and nostalgic. While it leans further into leather and fruit as it dries down, it never completely sheds that central floral tea accord. A beautiful tuberose cathedral.

Really quite fascinating creation. I read the description that mentioned that 5% of the composition is made out of indoles and they weren't joking! It smells like an ancient Chinese medicine, camphorous, fresh even piercing at times. I find this quality beautiful, since it is exactly what I was looking for. In the heart it gets slightly fruity from the redcurrant, the tuberose stays but it warms up on the skin. The dry down is another joyful part for me the osmanthus and leather joins the fruity floral dream and it gives the perfume an interesting almost edible facet. Note that this isn't a gourmand but something about the texture of the leather feels chewy to me. If you like to drink osmanthus tea maybe you will get this sensation also. Overall I was mesmerized by this beauty. It is really so special to my heart. I find it truly artistic and for that reason I will be wearing it on special occasions when it's fitting the mood.

When I try out a fragrance I (wisely~) start with only 1-2 light sprays. If it's great I usually go add one or two...if it's amazing I go back and spray myself with the utter abandon of one whose toddler is asleep and work is remote~ This beauty is that last category. Yes, the tuberose is INDOLIC and mothball camphorous; but it's perfection if you love tuberose. The jasmine is grapey and just a supporting player, not at all stealing the spotlight (which happens frequently on my skin) and becomes merely a purple slightly sweet memory in the dry down; gently buffeted by an apricot-leather osmanthus musk. It's a skin scent in a few hours; but definitely hangs around, surprisingly me with little moments of diva tuberose joy for the entire day. *EDIT: This is one of the very small amount of back up bottles I have <3

"An indolic dirge" says the copy & it is! But in a Second Line sort of way, witty & vibrant, a dance with death that celebrates all the potentialities of existence. With the proviso that I've only ever dabbed Tubereuse Criminelle from a contemporary sample & the concession that without it Flos Mortis would not exist, I appreciate Criminelle but prefer to wear the Rogue. Same camphorous blast to start but where Criminelle is cerebral Flos Mortis is playful. Definitely goth but not at all mordant, too defiant. Grabbed up a bottle from Luckyscent as soon as I saw the notification below that it was discontinued. Will miss this when it's gone. Digging it as a summer scent, the menthol's refreshing. Memento mori🥀💀🥀 Wore this when Anne Rice died, seemed the ideal homage.

This perfume shocked me, because I really did not expect that tuberose could smell like this, at least in the opening. To be honest, the opening is really challenging for me, the first hour makes me feel a bit sick, the leather is very prominent, and with tuberose it really creates an atmosphere of a morgue... It's cold, it's raw, and though it's not as bad as hyrax from zoologist, all i could say is that the opening is really weird. The name sums it all, the flower of death (flos mortis). But after 1 hour, it becomes a green leather tuberose that feels quite yummy and pleasant, the leather is still there but only on a small dose, while the other notes kick in making the concoction much more wearable. It's a naughty fragrance, not a safe blind buy I assure you.

This is the perfume that has unlocked all the many facets of tuberose in all it's glory. I feel like I understand it in a way I was never able to fully grasp before. I was often puzzled when people would describe certain fragrances (i.e., Poison) as tuberose bombs! To me, tuberose was two things. Either a twin of gardenia, or a sharp, green thing. I get both of those in this perfume, along with the camphor, and even that grape soda effect I associate with Poison! There are others in this extraordinary line I prefer, namely Chypre Siam and the jasmine one (can't remember the name), and I want full bottles of both. However, I will always be grateful for experiencing Flos Mortis and learning how to recognize and appreciate tuberose on a much deeper level.

Wow! What a perfume powerhouse. My first thought was Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle. It's not as strong or medicinal but not far off in the first half hour! On my skin the tuberose and jasmine are skanky divas rolling around on the floor tearing each other's hair out as they battle to be in no 1 position. The leather is present but standing back as the gals fight it out. A bit too shy. You have to wait an age before delicate osmanthus gets a chance to be detected. I think this leans a teeny bit to the feminine. The leather just doesn't stand out enough. It's surprising how quickly the sillage retracts back to average after such a BIG opening. Average longevity.

Very nice and dark tubereuses perfume. Despite his dark character It is more fresh than Deep what makes It very weareable. The leather gives to the fragance some animalic and masculine vibe and the osmanthus gives some sweetness, creamyness and fruity vibe. It remember me a lot to tubereuse noir by Zara but with much better longevity and overall a much higher quality, since the flowers here are very natural ant not synthetic. I find It a perfume for daytime use, overall un spring and fall, ir a nice night time perfume for summer. I find It a totally unisex scent. Scent: 9 Longevity: 8 Sillage: 6 Quality/price: 5 Versatility: 7 Originality: 7 Global: 8.5

Indolic tuberose as everyone below has mentioned, but the "red currant" note that some also describe as generic "red berries"--which this fragrance opens with--smells like astringent cherry cough syrup or lozenges. It's a glorious tuberose, yet the medicinal fruitiness is slightly more difficult to love for me. EDIT: Needed some time with it to come around. It definitely grew on me and would even go as far as saying the fruitiness that I initially struggled with is indispensable in the composition. Fully embracing (and loving) all facets of this stunner!

for me this starts with a lot of jasmine and red currant. it's a very pretty jasmine as well, and the red currant isn't super strong but just adds a slightly sweet/tart woody thing. as the drydown continues i get a lot more tuberose as well as some osmanthus. i get a hint of leather after being on the skin 1 hour+. this is a gorgeous scent, and the tuberose is not highly indolic or creamy, more spicy like someone else mentioned. this is a really lovely white floral perfume!

I haven't smelled a lot of tuberose fragrances so I really have nothing to compare this to. But I can say that I'm in love with this...I find it rich, deep, but surprisingly wearable. The leather note is not that noticeable. It's there but it doesn't scream leather. It just provides a grounding for the gorgeous indolic florals. Not a safe blind buy, but if you love tuberose please do get a sample. I'll be getting a bottle. :-)

This is lush. It takes you fathoms deep into its sea of fruity osmanthus and berries thickly dripping off the indolic tuberose and jasmine, on a bed of leather and musk. This is dark, thick and rich. It literally oozes indolic sensuality of things at the height of its beauty and at the dark edges of decay that begins to creep up on it. Glorious, gutsy and great! Not to be taken lightly.

a very well made tuberose. maybe black currant and some sweet candy here and there but nothing to cover this wonderful creation. better than tuberose criminelle. I would have preferred a little more performance. 9.5 / 10

Strong indolesl. The base notes are similar to Antique Antique. The spicy tuberose is hidden behind the scenes, from the stimulating, sharp and fishy green top notes to the honey-sweet fragrance that is never absent from the white flowers. Intense, dense, and thick, tuberose blooms at night, looking back on the nostalgic beauty of Antique Antique! Then came the secondary decoration - Indian jasmine, Antique Antique came to tuberose's home cameo and softened the tuberose. The front tone was once unpleasant. The properties appear similar to Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle. Flos Mortis is slightly apricot creamy, with dark musk, and the fragrance is pure and always violent and raw. Tuberose itself is rich in characteristics, including smells similar to rubber, camphor or grapes. It is very wonderful. When a perfume uses tuberose, its presence must be the highest.

First minute has very much a cough syrup feel. Minty camphorous jasmine, with a lively and syrupy (though still quite natural to my nose) grape-y undercurrent. The floral element is quite creamy, and the overall composition through the majority of its lifespan is not too dark or medicinal if used in moderation - Do not overspray with this one! I can absolutely understand why some would have unpleasant associations, as these notes are all utilized in day-to-day cleaning and medicative products, but this perfume is something else entirely. High-quality ingredients, quite beautiful feminine fragrance 8.5/10

First impressions after two days of wearing - this is a rich warm, spicy tuberose that develops over hours. After the first hour the leather really blossoms. I can't pick the jasmine - but my nose is still naïve to this changeable lovely. It is gorgeous. Great longevity. Revisit - there is an opulence of over ripe white flowers in this fragrance. It almost drips with sensuality. I find it quite mysterious and addictive.

I struggle with indoles and tuberose in particular so it means a lot that i still find this perfume fascinating and well executed, because it is all about indolic tuberose! For me this is more a work of art than wearable, but I think there are people who can pull it off. Strong sillage and longevity.

By reading the different reviews I wonder if there is a quality control issue between the production batches. My experience is exactly what RisingChaos experiences, and nothing like other describe (long lasting? jasmine?). First of all the progression of this scent is FAST: - Cherry Cough syrup for the first 10 minutes - French milled soap for about 5 minutes. Is that the jasmine? too fleeting to tell. - Then a terrible phase in which the skanky leather starts appearing while the soap is still there and the overall effect is perfume layered with BO. Luckily this lasts a few minutes - Then the leather, but not the the leather of a high quality purse, rather the smell of a tannery, including a strong broth/bullion scent. After 1.5 hours on my - admittedly - very dry skin it is barely there and I have to stick my nose to it. I did a side by side comparison with Tubereuse Criminelle, and I can't help feeling cruel for that. While TC is still projecting a clean, strong, green, medicinal, realistic tuberose, Flos Mortis smells like a kitchen where a couple of days ago someone prepared a meat soup. Strangely, I think the worst part of the scent is its performance. One may like the soup smell, but at this price it should last longer. UPDATE: after 3 hours I can detect a faint floral scent, slightly indolic. Finally the jasmine! but it is so faint one has to really pay attention, like a whisper.