Serge Noire

Lutens' scents are generally known for amber, cumin, and other arabist elements which remain largely unsurpassed by other houses. Here, however, these more familiar scents are displaced by the native plants of Indonesia's Spice Islands, and the result is totally different, an apotheosis of cold and heat. A stinging, bloodied, destructive thing which could lay waste to a town, but at the same time utterly beautiful. Serge Noire is, just like the other Mohairs, a monochromatic, somewhat solemn scent, composed primarily of ash and cloves, ground into a granular texture and left to be forgotten in the darkest corner of an ancient church catacomb. Its opening is particularly arresting, with softly animalic flint-like elements creating a sense not only of the smell of cloves, but of someone desperately trying to start a fire somewhere as the 'ancient ones' close in from the dark. I do find it menacing... it smells somehow like it would burn or is otherwise dangerous in a very unsexy way. It might simply be its unrelenting nature but there's something very unsympathetic and even almost cruel in the way Serge Noire smells... it smells like an emotionless observer of immense suffering, with no desire to intervene or lend help. As it sits on the skin it does rapidly "settle in"... rather than developing as a traditional perfume, it behaves almost like a musk and starts to intermingle with the skin until it's hard to distinguish where the perfume ends and the smell of frightened, panicked sweat begins. The blend of coldness and hot spices does make it feverish, it somehow smells the way that having caught the flu might physically feel - perpetually cold and seeking warmth but, paradoxically, already incredibly hot. Lying just beneath this spicy-cold mid is a faint but nevertheless highly disturbing animalic. In brief fits and starts I detect gentle wafts of something almost urinous or blood-like, the metallic scent of a smashed tooth or some other gore. I don't experience an obvious sweetness in Serge Noire's drydown, but it does lose its menthol knives and caustic might to give rise to a somewhat gentler, but still cool-spicy finish. We must assume, I think, that the slow development of this scent (which is said to have taken many years) likely results from the fact that clove bud oil, its seeming central element, is perhaps restricted in perfumery. As such, I believe this clove accord of Serge Noire has been built at least in part by hand, i.e. by careful combining of non-clove elements to pad out and enlarge the scent of the clove itself, or perhaps by use of some arcane clove extraction. I suspect it was there, in that painstaking process of manual assembly, that Lutens and Sheldrake discovered the opportunity to spook as much as delight the wearer via some synthetics (or naturals) which remain unknown. That something so diabolical-smelling could be IFRA compliant seems a wonder in itself. Throughout its entire lifetime on the skin it smells incredibly dramatic, like a hyper-potent distillation of some exotic plant that has been bleached of all its life to give a stripped down, "industrialised" essence. I find it incredibly evocative and generally horrifying - think Silent Hill in a bottle. It does lean masculine by conventional standards and lasts a respectable 6 hours on me. It's one of Serge's most challenging scents of all (not easy with the stiff competition) and is very likely to offend others who can't see the wonder or art in perfumery (or who simply can't stand animalic cloves). For my part, I think this little clovey thing is a true masterpiece.

Serge Noire was launched in 2008 and its name actually has a kind of double meaning. That's because the name of Serge is also the name of a fabric (In Portuguese, Sarja; in English, Twill). So, it seems that Serge took advantage of this duality, when naming this fragrance, but also to show a darker side of his personality, a kind of “Dark Serge”. In terms of concept, he says: "My first name is the name of a fabric. It strikes the right note for this fragrance. In a similar vein, nothing can capture this scent’s spirit better than subtle "snapshots" from the past, like a forgotten glove lying on an antique chair. Incense stirred by the smell of burnt wood". Serge Noire has notes of patchouli, cinnamon, amber, ebony wood, cloves, incense, ash, resins, and mix of spices. Some say that it took more than 10 years to be ready. On the skin, Serge Noire is one of the most powerful fragrances of the House, no doubt. And because of that, it is also of the type "love it or hate it". During the first hour, the smell scares! There is a vivid nuance of clove, with the medicinal aspect (reminding the medicine used by dentists) and a sour smell reminiscent of sweaty armpits, especially on the areas where the perfume was sprayed. Maybe that part has something to do with the importance of twill in the late 19th century when it was widely used in the manufacture of military clothing. After this stage, a dark phase begins to emerge. The incense does not arise smoky, but pure, as if ready to be put on the coals. Still, a strong smell of spice mixes with incense, making me remember of cumin. And the wood seems dense, but not dry. Then, a certain contradiction between the spicy and creamy begins to appear. The cinnamon starts to become more present and the incense starts to burn and leave its fragrant smoke. At this stage of evolution, Serge Noire doesn't remember, in any sense, that fragrance of hours ago. Serge Noire evolves slowly and it is a smoky, spicy, strong, uncomfortable, and quite masculine perfume, even though it's unisex. But don't think that the simple fact that you like spicy or smoky fragrances will be enough to appreciate this one. Not everyone can handle this more obscure facet of Serge. I see darkness, ashes and pain fading out through the air, as the smoke of fine incense, which burns slowly, perfuming, and pushing away evil spirits.

What an interesting fragrance. It evolves and changes, from a dirty blob to a magnificent ashy phoenix. This scent is anything but linear. At first spray, a dirty spice bomb: a blast of clove, cumin, cinnamon, combined together on a sweaty base. Quite difficult to handle during the first 5 mins. Then this spicy sweatiness suddenly morphs into a dusty scent, very much what Serge states as "a forgotten glove on a polished armchair". Very evocative in its strangeness. This doesn't last long however, and the true heart of SN starts to emerge, stronger and stronger: camphorous incense, then more and more incense, burning away the dampness of the spices, turning them warm and dry. And then comes the glorious final: mystical clove and cinnamon wrapped in clouds of frankincense. Mesmerizing. The cumin spiciness still stands in the background, dry and behaved, giving the overall fragrance an edge that makes it definitely unique. In its dying phase, a sweet and soothing clove lingers for a while. As for perfomance and usability: moderate sillage, but its barely tamed and can show up when least expected. I experienced a good longevity but I got to say, one of the few fragrances I prefer on clothes than on skin: it will skip the pungent start and fast forward to the dusty smokey clove stage, making you feel like an elegant vampire wearing rich dark velvet, even though you are just a poor mortal wearing cotton: Dark, refined, seductive without trying to seduce. Also on clothes this one definitely lasts for DAYS, as if it was made for fabric. I don't usually rely much on day/night or seasons for wearability, yet this one is absolutely a creature of the chilly nights. Perfectly unisex, alluring on a woman, compelling on a man. There is something deeply esoteric about this fragrance, and it has an intimidating but majestic presence that reminded me of a religious totem or a sacred statue. It has almost a personnality on its own, it feels alive. One word: transcendence.

i've always found it shocking that this is such a divisive scent. it's a bit peculiar, sure, but its composition is quite minimalist and it's really not a room filler. It's opening, yes, is quite spicy. The top smells strongly of clove, cinnamon and maybe a hint of coriander, and as with many spicy fragrances, this phase lasts for longer than a top composed of citrus or aldehydes or more volatile florals, so you do have to like the smell of clove, but I certainly wouldn't call it a clove bomb. incense is present throughout, but I have trouble discerning the heart from the base. The core of the scent is cold and almost clay-like, which must be from the combination of ebony wood and whatever mix of resins or amber notes that provide it with its foundation. The majority of its wear is characterized by this soft, but somewhat moist and claylike woody drydown that's been informed by its spicy opening. I find it to be very attractive, and after buying a full bottle I realized I dated somebody that wore it (very weird when you have those lightbulb moments), but in no way to I find it to be overly demanding or even specific to a season or time of day (though by vibe i picked winter and night, i wear it year round when I want something with a cold, spicy character). I haven't really smelled anything quite like it, but I would place it in the same zone as Comme des Garçons Black EdT. Truly a joy to wear for me, but it's definitely exemplary of the fact that people interpret smells differently and this may read as interesting but wearable to you or you may feel like the hamburglar when you wear it, and it's probably best to try a sample first.

I am testing this from a decanted sample provided by nexangelus (THANK YOU, my lovely!). Serge Noire seems to inspire outright horror & revulsion in most of the reviewers below so therefore - naturally - I had to try it. I sprayed once - cautiously - to my inner wrist, taking care not to get any on clothing, bedding, innocent passers-by or my cats. The only way to describe the initial momentous blast of cloves, cinnamon and spices is "a full frontal assault". It's almost a physical punch to the nose. I don't pick up on the cumin other reviewers have remarked on, and have never experienced this note as BO anyway. But not since Mitsouko have I had such a violent antipathetic reaction to a perfume - clearly the only sane option was to SCRUB IT OFF - IMMEDIATELY. I caved with Mitsouko after 30 minutes and scrubbed... and scrubbed... AND SCRUBBED! Why do perfumes I loathe have such incredible staying power??? 20 minutes in, I took another cautious sniff. Hmmm. The overwhelming cloves and spices had subsided to manageable levels, so I sprayed again, two blasts this time to both inner wrists. 45 minutes in and - having sprayed neck & decolletage as well now - I am left with a stunningly beautiful incense, amber and wood perfume. It's creamy and almost sweet. Sillage is moderate. I rarely comment on longevity as my skin soaks up perfumes and I don't think it's a fair comparison. I LOVE this. Caveat: I own and love a number of Bertrand Duchaufour's creations (and Mugler's Womanity); so please take this into account.

Wow! As soon as I started to crack the vial, the sandalwood was out and about and the scent was swirling all around me even before I had the stopper all the way removed. Am I the only one who smells sandalwood in this? To me it’s the most prominent note, and it’s an excellent sandalwood, the kind that seems alive with an almost sweaty feeling, and it’s accompanied by lots of cinnamon and cloves. The amount of clove is unusual, since it’s not often used heavily in perfumes, probably because it seems to be a love-it-or-hate it note. There’s also a little bit of a musty dry note in SN, and maybe a tiny tendril of incense here and there. To me, it’s a luxurious mix of wood and spices. As it dries down the incense becomes more prominent, but the sandalwood is always there. To me this is not in any way sinister, gothic, or mysterious. I think the fact that the notes are not listed allows people to project whatever they want onto the fragrance, and the word “noire” together with Serge’s purple prose doesn’t help. I see it as a perfume that evokes the image of warm spice caravans rather than cold vampire crypts. In the middle of the drydown there is an interesting “ashy” note that I think could be associated with SL’s original phoenix imagery in which the bird burns itself in a spicy fire, to reappear again in the form of incense. I’ll go with that. The bottom line is that I love this perfume, and will use up my sample as I contemplate the need for a decant.

June, almost midsummer, but it's pouring down. It is wet and cold outside. But inside, wearing Serge Noire, I am warm and very happy in my skin. I can only agree with steveniox: Serge Noire seems to be hugely a matter of skin chemistry. On me, it starts a bit austere for the first couple of minutes and then turns into Christmas at the fireside. For hours and hours on end it wraps me up into a cashmere blanket of cloves and cinnamon, woods and an absolutely divine incense. After a few hours it gets creamier and warmer still, but not sweet. Sandalwood and Vanilla and incense and the other spices more in the background? I can understand the phoenix metaphor. There is a lot of development in this, it changes and changes. What I can't understand at all is the BO some reviewers seem to get. No, no BO at all. MUST be a matter of skin chemistry. It loves or hates you. I am grateful that it loves me and I love, love, love it back. Sparkling, comforting, reflective and very sexy at the same time. Whenever I smell this on a man, I could lick it off his skin. Definitely a vintage feeling, and very unisex. Like many others have said before me,this may be the very best Lutens (and I own many of them). I don't want to be without it ever and keep a backup bottle in my closet at all times in case I run out.

There was a time at the Serge Lutens website when all descriptions went on like this. Ambre Sultan: "Aromatic resins"; Chergui: "Crystalized saps'"; Arabie: " Dried fruits"; Gris Clair: "Lavender dust"; Muscs Koublaï Khan: "A Radiant Fur". And so on. You can still read all of them haikus through the Wayback Machine (dialed around 2010) and get a taste about the initial poetry powering the ideas behind those scents. At that same time, Serge Noire's description contained but one word: "Ashy". So, what is it about? First there was something that I couldn't quite put my finger on for a long time, now I know: a big cola-flavored bubble gum from my childhood. Other flavors in it: clove tincture over resinous candlewax incense and cinnamon (inseparable) ebony wood - burned but sweet. No actual smoke, no extrovert notes: gorgeous and strong, yet clearly made for introspection, a gothic contemplation of shadow and light. Ashes are liquid, not the dust and spice that could choke you, this one is almost edible. I inhale deeply.

Review from a 2008 'mansion" logo bottle. Sharp however calm clove first bursts through, with gentle help from cinnamon and patchouli, together with the edgy incense creating a metallic punch almost like a cutting blade! I'm tasting the cold folk/spoon from the freezer, for a moment I feel the blade is cutting a hot buttery spicy wrap, the inner though not known,I am sure the exotic filling is going to reveal itself in the later stage then swamp the entire sensation with maybe a far east spice bazaar, or maybe some Indian cuisine. But one is certainly anticipating a dramatic twist from this opening, something is for sure lurking about! It's not a sudden bomb, but a slow motion that Luten's signature oriental base then slowly flows, silent flow, like a black/white movie, with however dramatic development it strikes, remains silent and super calm, composed. A forever misunderstood fame, flapping away and swirl, surging the ashes and laughter, dies down to a puff of illusion.

Can you believe that it’s been about 4 years since i know this perfume..and just because of false propaganda i didn’t even dare to test it?? First of all, relax it’s a perfume; and second of all, god it’s a unique masterpiece!! People with unexperienced noses can’t tolerate queer smells. I remember once a friend of mine after testing mona di orio musc simply said: aaaaah baby talc :| Any way back to serge noire; to describe it easily i must say: (clove+incense+amber+spices) Actually i think ambre sultan is way spicier than this one. The opening is boom! Invasion of dominant clove and cinnamon creating the dark aspect of serge noire and on the other hand, a smooth relaxing amber accord regulating the spices. And then it gradually gets more quiet and tranquil but is still edgy. Two sprays and i repeat only two sprays of this liquid in the cold winter days does the magic. Scent: 8.7/10 Sillage: adequate with 1 or 2 sprays Does the rest matter?

Just recently recieved a sample of this and i can't get enough of i now, just ordered a full bottle!! :) Think this is the best of uncle Serge so far and believe me, i have tried and own a few! To me this has nothing with BO to do, it's not even dark, to me it smells of Christmas and gingerbread with it's cloves and cinnamon and incense! The topnot starts with some caraway that dissapears in a few moments, then it gets something almost chocolaty sweet mixed with cloves, then comes the cinnamon and incense and the earthy patchouli! It also has some wood in it that reminds me of Roberto Cavalli Nero Assoluto! After that it stays pretty linear until it disapears after 5-6 hours! It's mediumstrong, don't think i't projects very much, it's more like a veil of cozyness you are beeing swept in! Overall i think it's very warm, cozy spicy woody and reminds me of the holidays! One of the most underrated SL!

Serge Noire is indeed a clove-centric scent, but the cloves have been blunted and muted and don't come across as acidic, boorish and obnoxious. It's like the way butter or coconut milk can make sharp, awkward flavours a lot more palatable. It works in a way to blunt the harshness of cloves in ways unimaginable. It works like a dilutant of sorts -- removes the abrasiveness and zooms in on the pleasant parts. This has elements of Blamage to it, along with a few other elements and aspects of familiar scents I can't quite place (not yet), but it is a warm hug on a cold day, a lukewarm cup of sahlap when it's near freezing outside. It's the sound of torrential rain RIGHT after you get home. It's a wonderful, pleasant background ambiance that grows on you. Warming spices, woods and incense. All working together. It's liquid smooth. It's fluid gravity. I really like this one. (possibly love).

Updated review: I spritzed a little SN onto my wrist yesterday afternoon and gave it to my husband to smell after about 20 minutes. He wrinkled his nose and said he didn't like it at all. This morning, I sprayed my arms more liberally and let it dry down for 45 minutes before asking him to smell it again; I didn't tell him what I had applied, to ensure an unbiased response. He sniffed once (cautiously - he's tolerant of my perfume addiction but finds many of my true loves repellent - bless him, he puts up with a lot). He sniffed again, much more deeply and said, "Ooooh... That's really nice!" This perfume is VERY reactive to skin chemistry. Do NOT be put off by the first 20 minutes after spraying, which is a full frontal clove and spice punch to the face. Give it a chance to dry down, and you may be rewarded with a delightful creamy, spicy and woody fragrance which is - almost - sweet.

I can`t believe I always evaded trying this before. Even today I sprayed 3 different Lutens before this and when I noticed I had some space left on my right hand I said: well... ok... let`s put this one that receives so many bad reviews... And to be honest the first seconds it felt bad as if I had applied a rotten thing, but after some minutes I got bewitched. Dark, very sexy but somehow aloof and hard to grasp. It was definitely the one that i felt I had to have at some point and I think it is not an easy one but very unique nonetheless.I have to give it another go before I get it but it is definitely on my mind and can`t forget its charm. May it become my new signature? we`ll see. The fact that it gets too soft in an hour or so is a bit annoying given its initial strength and presence, but it helps make you feel you can tame it a bit. Really really a nice finding!

When I first smelled a sample of this fragrance I immediately wanted to throw it away, convinced it wasn’t for me. I cannot describe exactly what I experienced, but I just didn’t understand what this fragrance was supposed to be. Maybe I tried it in the wrong combination of samples that day, anyway I left it in a drawer and forgot about it. About a year later I found the sample again and tried it once more not expecting much of it, but then it happened... I fell in love with it and couldn’t stop sniffing my wrist. Suddenly every note fell in its place: the wood, the spices, the incense. After all, every note I usually love in a perfume is in there. I just didn’t get it the first time. Now Serge Noire is one of my signature scents. It’s warm, elegant, seductive and intriguing. Not something everybody loves, but definitely worth trying.

★★★★★★★★★☆ Overpowering clove. Plus black pepper, cinnamon and incense. Spicy, dry, warm, and smoky. Among the interestingly polarized views, we do find consensus that it’s not for everyday wear. It can come across as sharp, overwhelming, even offensive for some. I wore it out once and the comments I received weren’t friendly from what I can recall. And yet I still consider this a phenomenal fragrance because the olfactory experience is so unique and intoxicating. There’s nothing here to tame the sharp edge of clove - instead, the incense fuels it. It’s so fiercely spicy like a tight, feverish grip you can’t break away from. There is nothing you can do but falling hopelessly into a warm and sensual haze. (Review based on a bottle from around 7 years ago - unsure if it has been reformulated since being moved to the Gratte-ciel line.)

First the spices, then the musk (and what a properly good animalic musk it is) then the burnt woods and incense. I love it, but you've got to like all of those things to wear Serge Noire... also I find it a bit strange that such a strong musk doesn't last longer. Still, it is a deep favourite and I enjoy it thoroughly. It's dark, dark, dark and better in winter. Christopher Sheldrake has given us something beautifully gothic, the opposite of the fruity florals and crystal aldehydes on the market. This one is special. 10/10 :) Update: if you sweat whilst wearing this, exert yourself or get hot, the acridity is amplified and yes, you do get a male sweat note as described by some reviewers. Not a scent for the gym, unless you're having a "thing" with your personal trainer.... doesn't put me off, but it ain't for the retiring :)

this isn't inherently bad, just a bit flat considering it more or less smells like a melange of a bunch of older, better lutens. they take the amber of chergui, honeyed cinnamon of gingembre, cloves and dried fruit of fille en aiguilles, and the smoke of l'orpheline, add some nondescript wood and patch and bottle it. it is more or less the house's signature style in a scent--hence the name. as an introduction to the house, its a bit polarizing but a good idea of what lutens' woody, resinous scents have to offer--just at the trade off of personality and character, which make all the other scents in that genre from lutens my absolute favourites. edit: i also seem to dislike this for entirely different reasons than the reviewers below--i love the naughty, animalic spice factor but it never, ever goes stinky or body odour on me.

Pure piece of work ! In my opinion, the difference between a good and a great composition may reside in its changing ability. A perfectly balanced fragrance that is monolithic and linear turn sometimes boring after a whole day of wearing (Gucci PH for ex.). The evolution of Serge Noire reveals a multi-faceted mix at each stage. Beyond the notes that are present here and are a matter of taste, the beautiful work of arranging all that stuff must be acknowledged. I am a lucky man that both appreciate the notes and the construction of this perfume, which has been for me (just for a while) the end of my quest for the ultimate one. If you are a fan of incense and oriental frag but dislike everything that turns sweet on your skin, you should get a decant of this masterpiece. Flavour : incense

I wanted something to project a "Don't mess with me" vibe, so wore Serge Noire to work today and was surprised to receive a few compliments from my students. They don't suck up to me about my perfumes. In the past I've been told "No offence miss, but I don't like your perfume." I like to encourage honest and open dialogue. It backfires occasionally. VERY misleading sillage on this - I honestly thought this was wearing quite close to the skin, but at the end of the day, one of the students came into the library and said how "nice it smells in here - it's your perfume, miss." I was about 8 metres from her, but I had left my jacket on my chair. She was two metres from that as well, though! I had sprayed (on skin) twice about 4 hours before. Spray with caution! Longevity is moderate.