Vitriol d’œillet

A peppery carnation with cloves and paprika The opening is so spicy but it's not too warm like Opium YSL. I can feel cloves from beginning to end and paprika makes perfume more spicy. Finally the soapy floral notes like carnation and lily make the scent softer and lighter and we have a sharp soapy floral aroma to the end. . در تولیدات سال های اخیر کمتر کاری با رایحه برجسته گل میخک میشه پیدا کرد که ویتریُل دُیِل یکی از اون هاست . عطر از ادویه هایی مثل میخک صدپر (ادویه میخک) ، فلفل سیاه، فلفل پاپریکا و جوز هندی در کنار خود گل میخک که تیزی ادویه مانند مشترکی با میخک صدپر داره تشکیل شده. مسلما تجمع این همه ادویه نتیجه ی گزنده و تیزی داره. اما ... این گزندگی با کمک روایح گلی صابونی تلطیف شده و از حرارت عطر بدینوسیله کاسته شده. پس کارهای ادویه ای سوزانی مثل اوپیوم رو تصور نکنید. . . رایحه ی عطر در شروع تند و شیرین با رگه هایی از تیزیِ نعنا ماننده اما خب نه مثل نعنا سبز و تلخ. بوییدنش در این لحظات به من حس استارت جویدن آدامس های نعنا اکالیپتوس قوی رو میده که تمام حفره های گرفته ی سرتون رو باز میکنن! این حس نتیجه ی خودنمایی بی محابا و لخت میخک صدپر در آغاز عطره که رایحش از طرفی برای من کمی حس میوه های شیرین خشک شده مثل هلو و زردالو هم داره. میخک صدپر تا پایان کار حضور شاخص داره و سایر ادویه جات هم گزندگی و معطر بودنش رو بیشتر میکنن. . . از طرفی میتونم رایحه عطر رو در شروع کار به یک سری پمادهای التیام بخش یا رنگ و اکسیدان مو تشبیه کنم. همون طور تیز و الکلی و کمی شیرین با بوی کرم/لاک مانند پلاستیکیشون. . محسوس ترین ادویه های عطر به شامه ی من میخک صدپر، پاپریکا با تندی فلفل دلمه ای مانند و شیرینش که بوییدنش مثل بوییدن خاک حس گرفتگی خفیفی رو هم در سینه ایجاد میکنه در کنار جوز هندی که اون هم شیرینی چوبی به کار القا میکنه هستن. . به مرور وقتش میرسه که ادویه های تند و سرکش در بستری نرم و لطیف از گلها آرام بگیرن و گل میخک به همراه گل هایی مثل لیلی با حس کرمی صابونیشون گزندگی رایحه رو کاهش بدن. ترکیبی که ازینجا تا آخر کار مارو همراهی میکنه. میخک صدپر، پاپریکا و عطر لطیف و صابونی گلها. . رایحه ی ویتریُل دُیل شاید برخلاف سال تولیدش گرایش به کلاسیک بودن داشته باشه. این بخاطر وجود گل میخک برجسته هست که سالهاست خیلی افتخار حضور پررنگ درعطرها رو نمیده و بعنوان یه رایحه قدیمی در اذهان ثبت شده.

Vitriol d’oeillet was released in 2011 and its name means, in English, "Vitriol of Carnation". Vitriol is the name given to sulphates, especially, to sulfuric acid. In other words, Serge Lutens wanted to portray, through this perfume, what would be the sulphate of the Carnation flower, used in the lapels of the classic visual of several men, those considered dandies. Serge defines the concept of this fragrance saying: "Take a carnation and a sufficient quantity of Cayenne pepper. Firmly drive it into the very center, using the "nails" of a clove. Before committing the final act of violence, let wallflower throw in a few punches". Vitriol d’oeillet has notes of carnations, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, pink pepper, and cayenne pepper (the name comes from Cayenne in French Guiana), also known as chilli pepper. Still brings lilies, ylang-ylang, woods, and wallflower (Erysimum). On the skin, Vitriol d’oeillet is a pleasant surprise. It has a retro air, reminiscent of the smell of violets with camphoraceous nuances. It was made for both genres, but has a more masculine aura, in my opinion. Its fragrance is distinct and innovative. In fact, I've never felt a male floral similar to this one, until the present moment. I love its nocturnal and seductive aspect. The evolution is very subtle and the fragrance remains with nuances of metallic and spicy violets, in addition to a slightly sweet base. It has good projection and lasts for hours on the skin. Those who don’t like clove-scented fragrances that remind of the medicine used by dentists, no need to worry, because the clove is not as present as the carnation in this perfume. The lovers of floral scents that have a strong smell of violets, as Hommage a L'homme (Lalique), for example, have everything to fall in love with Vitriol d’oeillet.

One of my most unique experiences. I have no idea what is that list of flowers doing in the list of notes, maybe except the wallflower which I don't know but I assume smells something like tagetes, that is, even if not correct, then at least by the principle, a basically green herbal "non-flowery" kind of profile. For example, I've smelt a "green" orchid which was more like a cut flower branch than a flower. Anyway, I have also smelt carnation, the flaming red flower and it smells sweet in its own unique way and is very good! But there's none of that here. Instead, there is another part of the name: vitriol. I only remember vitriol oil as something that was used in the past and maybe also today and I'm not sure where exactly. Possibly in machinery :) Because the smell of this scent reminds me a metallic machine that's been oiled and is working. The weirdness makes it so appealing, enjoyable. I likes some weird scents but not all. For example, this scent reminds me a very weird Ombre Vert by Tobba which was like a gothic vetiver or something like that. Then it reminds me T-Perfume's Heart Notes which is weirdness-oddity turned into a scent (that's so odd that I'm barely able to describe it). It also reminds me, though less, Montale's Vetiver des Sables but this one is the rusty version of metal(lic vetiver). Now Vitriol d'œillet is the fourth such most weird scent I have ever tried. And I love it! Must be vitriol as a scent.

My first experience with a carnation perfume was the scent of Potion body lotion by LUSH. If you know that one, you'll know that most carnation fragrances appear tame or bland next to that heavy spicy and almost medicinal cloves/ carnation concoction. I absolutely love it. What I love about carnation in general is that it has a mixture of warmth, sweetness, spiciness and just a hint of dust. It can give an old fashioned vibe to a perfume, but that is definitely not the case of Vitriol d'Oeillet. In fact, V d'O smells very modern for a carnation perfume, thanks to the heavy dose of pepper that accentuated the already spicy carnation even more, but also takes the medicinal cloves to the background. Thanks to the ylang- ylang, the perfume is never too spicy or too sharp. The banana smell of ylang- ylang takes away any sharp edges Vitriol d'Oeillet could otherwise have, and balances the whole fragrance out. I also detect some other sweet florals, the lily most dominant, and she's there to take away the dustiness of the carnation. For me, Vitriol d'Oeillet is all about the perfect balance between the spiciness and sweetness, with the carnation as the beautiful center of attention. It's a warm spicy floral perfume, perfect for fall. Very different from other carnation perfumes, because it's very soft and so very Lutens. Love!

While on the search for my perfect carnation scent, everyone in the perfume community told me more or less the same: "Oh, carnation is an outdated and difficult note''. Everything I tried lacked the real essence of carnations and offended my nose with the misrepresentation of a beautiful flower that meant so much to me. Carnations, at least those in my country, emit a velvety, spicy, aromatic scent and feel. They are soft and powdery, while a tad bit spicy -- like someone who has a strong character but expresses themselves in a soft-spoken manner. In Bulgaria, they are used as tribute flowers, mostly seen at funerals or memorial services. I never understood it, as their scent is too special to be off limits for the living. Vitriol d'oeillet is purely the most perfect carnation scent, everything I ever imagined it to be. It's powdery, milky, spicy, sweet, and velvety in all the right amounts. Another fun fact is that in Bulgarian, the word for 'carnation' and 'cloves' is the same - karamfil. Maybe this is why I've always thought one can't go without the other and I'm soo glad to see them together in what is now one of my most beloved perfumes. Sadly it's discontinued, but my destiny seems to be being a passionate chaser of extremely expensive, discontinued fragrances.