Vitriol d’œillet

A peppery carnation with cloves and paprika The opening is so spicy but it's not too warm like Opium YSL. I can feel cloves from beginning to end and paprika makes perfume more spicy. Finally the soapy floral notes like carnation and lily make the scent softer and lighter and we have a sharp soapy floral aroma to the end. . در تولیدات سال های اخیر کمتر کاری با رایحه برجسته گل میخک میشه پیدا کرد که ویتریُل دُیِل یکی از اون هاست . عطر از ادویه هایی مثل میخک صدپر (ادویه میخک) ، فلفل سیاه، فلفل پاپریکا و جوز هندی در کنار خود گل میخک که تیزی ادویه مانند مشترکی با میخک صدپر داره تشکیل شده. مسلما تجمع این همه ادویه نتیجه ی گزنده و تیزی داره. اما ... این گزندگی با کمک روایح گلی صابونی تلطیف شده و از حرارت عطر بدینوسیله کاسته شده. پس کارهای ادویه ای سوزانی مثل اوپیوم رو تصور نکنید. . . رایحه ی عطر در شروع تند و شیرین با رگه هایی از تیزیِ نعنا ماننده اما خب نه مثل نعنا سبز و تلخ. بوییدنش در این لحظات به من حس استارت جویدن آدامس های نعنا اکالیپتوس قوی رو میده که تمام حفره های گرفته ی سرتون رو باز میکنن! این حس نتیجه ی خودنمایی بی محابا و لخت میخک صدپر در آغاز عطره که رایحش از طرفی برای من کمی حس میوه های شیرین خشک شده مثل هلو و زردالو هم داره. میخک صدپر تا پایان کار حضور شاخص داره و سایر ادویه جات هم گزندگی و معطر بودنش رو بیشتر میکنن. . . از طرفی میتونم رایحه عطر رو در شروع کار به یک سری پمادهای التیام بخش یا رنگ و اکسیدان مو تشبیه کنم. همون طور تیز و الکلی و کمی شیرین با بوی کرم/لاک مانند پلاستیکیشون. . محسوس ترین ادویه های عطر به شامه ی من میخک صدپر، پاپریکا با تندی فلفل دلمه ای مانند و شیرینش که بوییدنش مثل بوییدن خاک حس گرفتگی خفیفی رو هم در سینه ایجاد میکنه در کنار جوز هندی که اون هم شیرینی چوبی به کار القا میکنه هستن. . به مرور وقتش میرسه که ادویه های تند و سرکش در بستری نرم و لطیف از گلها آرام بگیرن و گل میخک به همراه گل هایی مثل لیلی با حس کرمی صابونیشون گزندگی رایحه رو کاهش بدن. ترکیبی که ازینجا تا آخر کار مارو همراهی میکنه. میخک صدپر، پاپریکا و عطر لطیف و صابونی گلها. . رایحه ی ویتریُل دُیل شاید برخلاف سال تولیدش گرایش به کلاسیک بودن داشته باشه. این بخاطر وجود گل میخک برجسته هست که سالهاست خیلی افتخار حضور پررنگ درعطرها رو نمیده و بعنوان یه رایحه قدیمی در اذهان ثبت شده.

Vitriol d’oeillet was released in 2011 and its name means, in English, "Vitriol of Carnation". Vitriol is the name given to sulphates, especially, to sulfuric acid. In other words, Serge Lutens wanted to portray, through this perfume, what would be the sulphate of the Carnation flower, used in the lapels of the classic visual of several men, those considered dandies. Serge defines the concept of this fragrance saying: "Take a carnation and a sufficient quantity of Cayenne pepper. Firmly drive it into the very center, using the "nails" of a clove. Before committing the final act of violence, let wallflower throw in a few punches". Vitriol d’oeillet has notes of carnations, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, pink pepper, and cayenne pepper (the name comes from Cayenne in French Guiana), also known as chilli pepper. Still brings lilies, ylang-ylang, woods, and wallflower (Erysimum). On the skin, Vitriol d’oeillet is a pleasant surprise. It has a retro air, reminiscent of the smell of violets with camphoraceous nuances. It was made for both genres, but has a more masculine aura, in my opinion. Its fragrance is distinct and innovative. In fact, I've never felt a male floral similar to this one, until the present moment. I love its nocturnal and seductive aspect. The evolution is very subtle and the fragrance remains with nuances of metallic and spicy violets, in addition to a slightly sweet base. It has good projection and lasts for hours on the skin. Those who don’t like clove-scented fragrances that remind of the medicine used by dentists, no need to worry, because the clove is not as present as the carnation in this perfume. The lovers of floral scents that have a strong smell of violets, as Hommage a L'homme (Lalique), for example, have everything to fall in love with Vitriol d’oeillet.

One of my most unique experiences. I have no idea what is that list of flowers doing in the list of notes, maybe except the wallflower which I don't know but I assume smells something like tagetes, that is, even if not correct, then at least by the principle, a basically green herbal "non-flowery" kind of profile. For example, I've smelt a "green" orchid which was more like a cut flower branch than a flower. Anyway, I have also smelt carnation, the flaming red flower and it smells sweet in its own unique way and is very good! But there's none of that here. Instead, there is another part of the name: vitriol. I only remember vitriol oil as something that was used in the past and maybe also today and I'm not sure where exactly. Possibly in machinery :) Because the smell of this scent reminds me a metallic machine that's been oiled and is working. The weirdness makes it so appealing, enjoyable. I likes some weird scents but not all. For example, this scent reminds me a very weird Ombre Vert by Tobba which was like a gothic vetiver or something like that. Then it reminds me T-Perfume's Heart Notes which is weirdness-oddity turned into a scent (that's so odd that I'm barely able to describe it). It also reminds me, though less, Montale's Vetiver des Sables but this one is the rusty version of metal(lic vetiver). Now Vitriol d'œillet is the fourth such most weird scent I have ever tried. And I love it! Must be vitriol as a scent.

My first experience with a carnation perfume was the scent of Potion body lotion by LUSH. If you know that one, you'll know that most carnation fragrances appear tame or bland next to that heavy spicy and almost medicinal cloves/ carnation concoction. I absolutely love it. What I love about carnation in general is that it has a mixture of warmth, sweetness, spiciness and just a hint of dust. It can give an old fashioned vibe to a perfume, but that is definitely not the case of Vitriol d'Oeillet. In fact, V d'O smells very modern for a carnation perfume, thanks to the heavy dose of pepper that accentuated the already spicy carnation even more, but also takes the medicinal cloves to the background. Thanks to the ylang- ylang, the perfume is never too spicy or too sharp. The banana smell of ylang- ylang takes away any sharp edges Vitriol d'Oeillet could otherwise have, and balances the whole fragrance out. I also detect some other sweet florals, the lily most dominant, and she's there to take away the dustiness of the carnation. For me, Vitriol d'Oeillet is all about the perfect balance between the spiciness and sweetness, with the carnation as the beautiful center of attention. It's a warm spicy floral perfume, perfect for fall. Very different from other carnation perfumes, because it's very soft and so very Lutens. Love!

While on the search for my perfect carnation scent, everyone in the perfume community told me more or less the same: "Oh, carnation is an outdated and difficult note''. Everything I tried lacked the real essence of carnations and offended my nose with the misrepresentation of a beautiful flower that meant so much to me. Carnations, at least those in my country, emit a velvety, spicy, aromatic scent and feel. They are soft and powdery, while a tad bit spicy -- like someone who has a strong character but expresses themselves in a soft-spoken manner. In Bulgaria, they are used as tribute flowers, mostly seen at funerals or memorial services. I never understood it, as their scent is too special to be off limits for the living. Vitriol d'oeillet is purely the most perfect carnation scent, everything I ever imagined it to be. It's powdery, milky, spicy, sweet, and velvety in all the right amounts. Another fun fact is that in Bulgarian, the word for 'carnation' and 'cloves' is the same - karamfil. Maybe this is why I've always thought one can't go without the other and I'm soo glad to see them together in what is now one of my most beloved perfumes. Sadly it's discontinued, but my destiny seems to be being a passionate chaser of extremely expensive, discontinued fragrances.

My initial take on this was rather dismal so I am so glad I tried it again. Now I love it so that I can’t believe I was sitting on this treasure. Alas, I used this in the wrong season. The season for this perfume is in that liminal space between summer and autumn. It revealed itself to me on a rainy day...which reminded me of when I fell in love with Mitsouko and the perfume opened up to me on such a similar day. If Fille de Berlin is Luten’s peppery powdered rose bomb then this is his peppery powdered carnation bomb. I have to agree with Nicronomicon that this is a confusing little number to say the least - a moody one. In certain moments I get the bombastic carnation and clove of the classic original Opium. In other moments I get something reserved and studious - in another moment it is so inviting and optimistic. I even got slight skanky indols at one point (the lily perhaps?) The vitriol is the dichotomy of these incongruities - the grandiosity, the depression, the passion, the utter self containment. I get this one. I love every mood of this one. Wear this beauty on a quiet, autumnal rainy day and see what I mean. Practical considerations - this is indeed powdery on my skin but not overbearingly so in my opinion. If that’s not your thing, be warned.

I read fragrance blogs that this would be a Powdery CARNATION fragrance... I imagined it .....to be a very modern take on the classic BELLODGIA by CARON which I love for its in your face CARNATION notes.... softened by VANILLA, MUSK and CLOVE. Boy was I pleasantly wrong. This fragrance is really spicy. !!!! PINK PEPPER... PEPPER... PIMENTO(PAPRIKA) are ingredients listed and they are the are the strongest notes that hit my nose first they then remain there tingling much the way Jalapenos peppers tingle the lips and tongue This sounds ..terrible,unless you happen to like that kind of FIERY sensation SERGE LUTENS manages to soften this fiery concotion with CARNATION FLOWERS and a hint of CLOVE The NUTMEG is a hidden note .. I could not detect. The fragrance that it brings to mind for its similar unique spiciness If i could suggest such a thing... AMBRE GRIS by BALMAIN Both are spicy......and peppery and very masculine in an upfront manner. however, Vitriol turns into a light powdery spicy fragrance which then develops into yes... a sharp woody scent and back again .... A juxtoposition of scents...I know. a most unusual feat in of itself . that in the end .. is very unisex !!! Bravo SERGE!! You won me over again....with your complexity!

It is very difficult to get the exact scent of the carnation smell, that carnation with a spicy point similar to the nail, warm without becoming axfisiante and that floral and deep nuance of the flower. And although there is essence of a carnation subspecies, it does not smell exactly the carnation that we all know, this aroma is different, so to imitate it exactly on the part of the perfumers is a very complex task. In fact, I have tried many fragrances dedicated to the aroma of the carnation and without a doubt "Vitriol" is one of the most achieved fragrances. Lutens leaves aside the spicy part, the oriental nuances and focuses throughout the evolution of the fragrance in showing us the most floral perception of the ambivalent carnation, a sublime and excellent carnation. It seems to me that for those who love the scent of the carnation, it is a must, for its quality, composition and performance. Rating: 9.1

Oh my,this is nice!! The Sephora in Toronto has started carrying the Lutens line and at Christmas I tried a few on various parts of both arms. On the way driving home I kept thinking something smells Really good on me, so I have just now returned and purchased a whole bottle. I seem to have strange body chemistry, because despite the negative reviews of this frag, on me this is heavenly! Sweet, vanilla-ish violets with a touch of carnation and pepper. I also like Lutens' Miel de Bois, which most people can't tolerate. This particular scent is not overwhelming like a great deal of Lutens perfumes, but on me it is very soft, clovey, and like a beautiful violet dream. Brings to mind fairies in a sunlit glen on a dewy morning. Sillage is moderate, but longevity is excellent, upwards of 8-10 hours. Very high quality and a keeper! 10/10

Pure carnation+cloves. A beautiful masculine spicy floral. I'm not in love with cloves but I love SL Serge Noire. I don't really like carnation as it's a prominent note of old-school fragrances (together with oakmoss, for which I don't regret the ban). But here, it is a pure work of art. Intoxicating. Projection is good in the first hour, then becomes moderate. Opens with carnation and a strong supporting nutmeg, and much later (4 hours in) slowly morphs into a Serge Noire-like cloves drydown with a hint of tobacco flower and spices. A successful modern take on an old-school note. Thank you Serge (and Chris)! Masculine, Spring/Fall days, 30+

+ Divine! Soft, powdery, cloves, spices, and carnation. I don't smell much paprika but I do detect nutmeg on subsequent wearings. Definitely unique. I like this much better than L'Artisan Oeillet Sauvage. Granted they are aspiring for totally different vibes. L'AOS is aiming for a youthful/fresh, baby-doll take on carnation whereas SL VdO is dark, mature, spicy, and wintery. I LOVE VdO! Like someone said below this perfume smells similar to Prada Infusion d'Oeillet! EDIT - My partner says this smells like a friendly grandmother. Just bought my first Serge Lutens full bottle and it is this beautiful fragrance! <3

12/13/11: I tried this at Barney's and I really like it. I was given a sample, so I am happy about that. I am not sure why the note of Carnation is not shown above, but tuberose is also a top note. The top notes are wonderful, but it's middle notes are spicy and I think conflicts with the top notes. It's bottom notes are more woodsy and the spice disappears (at least on me). I think this is a very nice fall/winter scent. It you are into blending scents, this fragrance is great with Byredo Bal D'Afrique. You will really love it. Let me know what you think.

Clove and pepper. Then some indistinct and faint flowers humming in the background. It is really about spices. I get the concept of the carnation. I even smell it but, at the end of the day, it is all about clove and pepper. Yet somehow, it is very beautiful. It has both a vintage and modern feel. Not exactly mainstream sexy, but yet... My husband is crazy about it. All in all, don't be fooled by the name's funeral and oppressive suggestiveness. It is an unusual, intriguing, yet very opinionated, warm and happy juice.

Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet (2011) - spicy carnation - This is such a calming scent created by #christophersheldrake yet full of depth. Carnations with their spicy and clove-like heart is mixed with aromatic Black and Pink pepper, Nutmeg and Cloves. This incense-like opening doesn’t smell smokey thought, but crisp and well-constructed. There are other florals I’m getting to smell, woods and white musks - but the spicy carnation is the star of the show. It reminds me of #guerlainlui which is also a favorite.

I really like this carnation based parfum. I feel a very spicy carnation. The performance, as It happens witb most serge lutens on my skin, is only moderate, but this is a very different and original perfume, i havent smelt something similar before. It has a good place on my collection because is the first carnation perfume i own. Unisex and better with warm weather. Spicy and dry floral. Scent: 8 Longevity: 8 Sillage: 6 Quality/price: 10 (i found It for 20€/50ml) Versatility: 8 Originality: 9 Global: 8.5

hey. okay. ow. ow.ouch! stop beating me with a bunch of carnations! I think its very fresh and (smash in face with full Bouquet) ahh... peppery I like it... ahh!! stop hitting me with carnations! ... cold and peppery and carnational-ly as all hell. I feel like I have walked into a florist and the sales person has pushed me head first into the fridge full of carnations and held me there. 'you like carnations huh? do you bitch?" wonderfully traumatic.

This is beautiful, an abundance of clovey, spicy carnation goodness.It lasts and is suitable for any season I feel although its approaching winter right now in good old blighty and I'm loving it. Although it's spicy and peppery I get the floral in this too, subdued violet and a wearable, non screechy lily and the carnation is gorgeous. I'm honestly turning into a right little Lutens whore ha ha really enjoying alot of his scents right now )

I never owned a fragrance with carnations, this is my first and i must shay i absolutely love this fragrance, i love metallic and creamy scents and this is just that especially in the dry down, being the blender machine that i am, i sprayed this on my left arm and then tom for oud wood on the right arm and they danced happily together and yes ofc i got compliments ☺️ but this perfume is great on its own too Overall: 9/10

Gorgeous spicey vibrant fragrance. I love spices and carnations are just divine. They are brought together beautifully in the cheerful fragrance. These are strong notes but they are softened with the sweetness of lily perhaps. I would have gone for fb but for the unfortunate soapy closing on my skin. Moderate sillage and longevity. I think Oriza L Legrands dianthus fragrance is better.

Smells almost identical to the original JF legendary Iris Gris. Wonderfully ethereal. Opens with a strong chilly violet note and warms to a close copy of Iris Gris. Breathy carnation with the merest hint of clove on my skin. The notes are supported by a lovely spicy backdrop that remains in the back and isn't overpowering. A completely unexpected delight. I am in perfume heaven.