L'Âme du Phénix

After the mostly amicable let-downs of Alphee and Barbicaja, L’Ame du Phenix seems to be where Spoturno and Sheldrake find their groove. It is a classic masculine fougere composed for the 21st century via a sumptuous texture and high-class materials both the likes of which are extremely hard to find in the genre. Though again, unfortunately, not taking the opportunity to run with innovation, as was the Francois Coti way, is still a bit of a let-down - Phenix is certainly not treading any form of terra incognita - but at least we find evidence of Spoturno and Sheldrake pointing out where the bar has been sitting in the fougere genre for many a decade and they said “let’s move it.” To what I can smell, Phenix is all about texture, with all notes from top to base perfectly stitched together to create this feeling of silken clouds moving slowly across a gray blue sky. The opening of grapefruit, lavender, and pepper is fleeting but tantalizing, pleasantly bright but grey in temperament, a gentle ray of powdery orange light slowly breaking through the cloud. But it’s the heart and base that allure the most: a blending of the gentlest cedar, spices, leather, patchouli, labdanum and vanilla so effortlessly elegant and powerful but yet with an understated chic. The great French perfumers of the previous century's heyday would raise their eyebrows, green with envy, at Sheldrake’s prowess with these incredible materials. How this perfume manages the dense and ultra-smooth texture of silk with the lightness and breathability of linen is not something I’ve experienced in a fougere for a very long time, and I won’t risk misspeaking from faulty memory by confidently recalling names (Chanel Pour Monsieur comes to mind, though, or maybe Rive Gauche PH on the more recent end of the continuum). Alphee and Barbicaja also didn't tread terra incognita, but more so their elegance cum nostalgia had a stiff and rigid stridency that made them very difficult characters to enjoy; the blatant nostalgia without elevation plus the stridency put Xs next to their names in my book. But L'Ame du Phenix is the most luxurious of well-worn antique leather sofas to Alphee's and Barbicaja's impenetrable and unforgiving marble floors. Though not quite what I was hoping for, I’m very happy nonetheless. Spoturno and Sheldrake, more of this, please. It’s gorgeous. Fingers-crossed the 1921 EdP and extrait I have up next follow in this vein.

I would say it's a more modernized and effective copy of the MFK masculine plural, it's 80% similar but with higher quality and effectiveness, a woody fern that you will fall in love with once smelled, this house exudes class and know-how. Bravo Coty However, the price is just a joke, very expensive.

I agree 💯 with the review below mine. This sample that I was given here at Fragrantica (thank you again for all the wonderful goodies you sent me) Phenoix will smell wonderful on my husband. This is well crafted old school elegance for men. Dior Sauvage elixir has nothing on this beauty.

Barbershop tobacco. The top notes are very much a traditional shaving product fragrance. The dry down is more interesting but not my style. I usually try not to gender fragrances but I can't help but perceive this one as masculine, due to my associations with the barbershop accord and the scent of natural-smelling tobacco. This smells like my brother circa 1985 before his tastes grew more refined.

I don't know if my eyes deceive me, but by this note listing, it seems like it could come off like a niche'd up D&G The One EDP. Seems like an interesting one to try to get my nose on ASAP, Sheldrake is the greatest of all English perfumers, sorry not sorry Mr. Roger Bird, not getting many Birds on your Roger with $10/ml basic freshies I'd imagine...

Yes, this is a barbershop accord, but done with impeccable ingredients. best of it's class.

This line and notes looks fantastic with sheldrake also on these releases.