Aperture

First of all, I am growing so weary of the summer and this unrelenting heat wave we are having here in Massachusetts that I am pining for cooler days and fragrances to wear on such days. Therefore, I am reaching for fragrances this week that I am far too impatient to wait until autumn to enjoy, starting with the unsung animalic, musky, woody, peppery masterpiece that is Aperture. The opening may prove to be a challenge to any niminy-piminy, priggish type who must have clean and sweet, extra sugar (or Splenda), or two-dimensional woody ambers. No, we have no coumarin here, either. This is pungent, feral, and raw, particularly in its opening, without being overly loud or vertiginous. Black pepper and a mildly (I stress only mildly, not to fear) urinous undertone is accompanied with aldehydes at the top. No you won't smell like pee-pee when you wear this, but it's a facet that comes from the dense cedar, musks, and what could perhaps be Animalis or Shangralide in the composition. Then the tobacco fades in, blooms, if you will, lending its unctuous voice to the chorus in the heart, buttressed with a jasmine and muguet. Then an ambergris (not ambroxan but a really great replacer of ambergris here) is this cool, almost salty bloom into its dry down. Seldom do I find a fragrance so poetic yet lascivious all at once, it truly is impressive. I agree with Andy the Frenchy that it is reminiscent of Muscs Koublai Khan and Dzing! but I would also add L'Air de Rien for its lived-in quality. Aperture is for the hardcore fragheads who live for animalic, musky scents and are hungry for a titillating new experience.

The opening is all about a pungent animalic musk and aldehydes, supported by tobacco and a subtle peppery/woody note... In the drydown the aldehydes calm down to leave a small spot for the ambergris to make an appearance. This fragrance is quite linear and performance average, but what a masterpiece!!! That said, I smelt that before andI thought... and thought... and thought.......... The musk reminded me of... yes, I'll say it: Lutens MKK. Yes, but despite some clear similarities, I wasn't there yet. Indeed, Lutens is even more unapologetic, animalic, more complex and the civet note is missing here. Then, where did I smell that before? Booom! Here it is: the heart stage of Dzing! How could I not think of it before??? While Dzing! will round the edge of the musk with some sweetness in the background, Aperture has a hint of ambergris that keeps it cold and the musk stays sharp. The similarities between these two are obvious and strong. In any cases, I'm not sure if I'm smelling a circus or a polaroid just developed, but in any cases, it's a piece of artwork, that unfortunatley only hard fragheads may understand. Fantastic. Highly recommended to whom is into challenging frags and fans of animalic musk. Colder Spring and Fall days (not office-safe though), 30+

This is unique, attractive stuff. I pick up prominent civet and ambergris supported by tobacco, clean vetiver, and some peppery, cedary, woody notes. The combined effect is animalic yet strangely clean, mildy camphorous, and modern. Sort of a bunch of stuff that I like mixed together, so It's not a really a surprise to me that I'm enjoying this. The most interesting thing going on here is the opening's dichotomy of the slighty-skanky, balmy animalic notes with the very clean woody sweetness underneath. In a sense it reminds me of a sort of mainstreamed, "lite" version of HDP's Edition Rare (Petroleum comes to mind, Ambrarem less so). Sort of eschewing the concept that something modern has to smell clinical or aseptic and instead embracing funkiness. I will say that aperture is much more instantly likable and safe than either of the aforementioned fragrances, for better or worse, so don't let the comparison deter you. Aperture is not a performance monster. I got about average longevity and pretty soft projection. The drydown just radiates a hushed, dusky aura of salty soapiness for a few hours and then it disappears. I do think 200 bucks is a little steep here, but I would probably pick up a smaller bottle if one is ever offered. Thumbs up. 7.5/10

Just a tiny, tiny dab... my first sampling was completely abhorent with an overapplication from my vial, and that was with only about three swipes of the stick/dauber. Some pretty impressive potency here. There is a lot of ambergris in Aperture. Or I should say that it is strong and that the other notes in this perfume are also prominent and well balanced. Initially, jasmine and plenty of dry pepper introduces a wonderful aromatic interplay of dry, fresh, and botanic. Lily of the valley adds some sparkling notes of greenness and flashes like something metallic now and then. Contrast this clean accord with some serious funk. This ambergris is fatty, fecal and fresh but adds some really beautiful richness. It's quite overwhelming if you apply too much. In moderation, it's sublime and not to be dismissed. Smoky notes of tobacco weave in and out and carry a lightweight cedar and soft white musk that helps the sweetness of the tobacco to drift rather than become mud with the rich ambergris. Aperture is like a Polaroid picture coming to life in the evolution of its scent. A well faceted clean structure with a rich heart, culminating into a beautiful woody, lusty musk. Just be careful not to overexpose!

As a rule of thumb I'm really not fond of pink pepper since it has become a lazy cliche when someone wants to punch up some boring juice but I think I've found an exception here. When I first sprayed this I got about of minute of -- absolutely nothing, which is startling in an aldehyde scent. Once it warmed a got a big waft of cedar and tobacco, followed by civet. As the evening has passed I keep getting whiffs of camphor--not a listed note but the effect of the cedar and tobacco working together. I'm not finding floral notes or much ambergris but the pink pepper gives this a bit of bite at the edges. I'd consider this a civilized version of Lutens Borneo 1834 so use that as guidance if you know the Lutens perfume. Sillage: soft, close Longevity: 3 hours and going strong Fabulosity: hand carved teak Value to price ratio: low but not unreasonable 7/10