Ma Griffe Parfum

The venerable Ma Griffe was launched in 1946, just after the conclusion of World War ll. From the Carven website: “Mrs. Carven created in 1946 a fresh, dashing, very flowery fragrance while remaining classic with a touch of haute couture. Its name imposed itself quite naturally. It would bear the name of Madame Carven's signature dress of simple green and white striped cotton: Ma Griffe. A legendary fragrance inspired by Madame Carven's favorite flowers: Gardenia, Jasmine and Rose.” The name means “my signature” or “my claw.” (I was here- and I will be remembered.) Ma Griffe was created with the optimism of the future in mind. It heralded the coming era of post-War prosperity. Ma Griffe was marketed to a youthful demographic, to the young woman who could now put the challenges of the past behind her. It was time at last for her to celebrate her youth. I was a bit surprised to learn this, as Ma Griffe had never struck me as a “youthful” scent. When I think of a fragrance aimed at a younger demographic, something sweet and gourmand usually comes to mind. (Although anyone of course, of any age, can wear whatever fragrance they wish to.) To the modern nose, Ma Griffe can be a bit of a challenge to get to know. Ma Griffe's scent structure seems to echo the era of its origins. First the dark clouds of the War, of loss, of austerity. Then, the clouds part, and the way into the magical garden of the Future shines invitingly before you. Ma Griffe is certainly not a gourmand, though it does exhibit a sublime sweetness in its middle phase. It is classified as a chypre floral, and is a complex (in a good way) fragrance. It begins with an earthy, herbal blast that seems to say “Go ahead- just try to like me." This off-putting phase does not last. Do not let the opening deter you from experiencing this amazing scent. After the darkness passes, Ma Griffe's brighter aspects unfold. It soon transforms into a lovely, green, sweet, lemon/sage/white floral something, sparkly and fresh. (Some people smell cinnamon. I have never detected a cinnamon note in Ma Griffe, although during the multi-nuanced dry-down, there is a powdery aspect that does have a touch of mysterious spiciness.) I love every stage of Ma Griffe after the asafoetida has exited, but especially its longest manifestation, which is the green sparkly citrus-ness. It’s very uplifting. Ma Griffe calls up a memory of a little lemon tree we had in our back yard. It was scrawny, and always looked a bit moribund. But it never failed to produce the best lemons, and, even more delightfully, in Spring it boasted a deluge of the most heavenly lemon meringue pie scented flowers. I remember standing in awe of this funny little tree, all alone in its container, spellbound by the aroma of its new white blossoms. Ma Griffe’s long lasting dry-down is like a walk in a garden in Spring, after a morning rain. Green things are glistening with new growth. Unfurling blossoms beckon you. The air is fresh and bright with herbs. Rose, jasmine, and gardenia glow gently within the chorus of green and citrus. There is a touch of powdery orris root, and all is anchored by the earthiness of the resins and a whiff of oakmoss and vetiver. Ma Griffe smells like the future. Traditional ingredients have been combined in a new way. Every time I apply Ma Griffe, I somehow discover a new facet of it. You will feel absolutely unique when you wear this fragrance. I never would have thought I'd end up loving Ma Griffe so. It was my mother's signature "going out" fragrance. Sometimes when I spray it, I can hear her high heels on the hardwood floors, and see her touching up her Fire and Ice lipstick. A spritz of Ma Griffe, and she was ready to go Out. As a kid, I didn't care for Ma Griffe. It was too weird. My mother's every day fragrance was Woodhue by Faberge, and I loved when she wore that, as it was soft and sweet. I used to sneak applications of her Woodhue when she wasn't around, but never touched the Ma Griffe. Woodhue is almost impossible to find these days, but some years ago, in honor of my mother, I purchased a small bottle of vintage Ma Griffe (I have not tried the new formula, but I would like to.) I sprayed it. Then- I put it in the refrigerator. I think I just wasn't ready for it. After years of gourmands- which I still love, and wear- I thought I would give Ma Griffe another try. And to my surprise, I fell head over heels for this strange, modern/vintage, complicated scent. When I get a whiff of it throughout the day, I am indeed filled with a sense of optimism. It’s easy to see why this fragrance was formulated to be the scent of a new era of hope and progress, and belief in the future, after the dark clouds of the Depression and World War ll had finally dispersed. I will never be without this singular and mesmerizing perfume. Ma Griffe is a classic. It makes me feel sophisticated, yet playful. Give it a try, and experience for yourself intriguing echoes of glamor from a bygone age.

Good golly, does 70s Ma Griffe parfum fizz and buzz—it's notes sibilate, piercing aldehydes, an almost chive-like galbanum, a pungent leek-meets-flower-petal asafoetida. All of these punctuate the chorus of florals, with the choirmaster in the form of a fleshy gardenia. A jasmine tenor and a baritone rose, alto ylang ylang, all at full volume. It's important to point out that when in unison, they are opaque and not easily deconstructed into smaller assemblages. Crisp and wet green-velvet, vigorous and heady, the parfum feels like determination, ever optimistic and unwilling to yield to opposing forces. The base reveals a cinnamon-woodiness but not of the cassia hot-ball type, more like a fine Ceylon, a bit moodier and sticky, courtesy of some unctuous styrax, but still reminding my skin of who's Daddy. I get a strong and propulsive sensation of civet, too. What a thrill. I rate it among the best chypres in history.

I got this as part of a vintage set, and I really enjoy it as a Spring perfume! It starts out on me as a sharp green floral with moderate sillage. Then over the course of a couple of hours it becomes more of a skin scent where the sweeter notes and cinnamon shine through. I imagine it varies a lot by person, as cinnamon is a note that always comes out on me. Overall, if you can get it at a lower price it’s a very clean and inoffensive perfume to wear. No soap scent or bitterness, just clean green florals that warm up.

Classic, in the same vibe as Joy and Chanel 5. Tried this because it was listed somewhere as Judy Garland’s signature scent. Really liked “Judy 100” but it is nothing at all like this. If vintage is your vibe it’s worth checking out.

A pleasant gardenia. Powdery and soapy. A bit unremarkable.

This is a perfume from 1946, and it feels like it; it opens with a big old slug of aldehydes and something musty-brown, possibly vetiver. I hate being That Girl who complains about classic perfume, but today a perfume this aldehydic is going to smell like something your grandmother wore. It doesn’t feel green to me at all, more like golden-olive. Like a solid block of tweedy seriousness. Underneath, it’s more floral and even fresh. I get a lot of lily-of-the-valley and a juicy, almost purple flower that might be the gardenia. I also get a lot of warmth from the base, in a blended way that’s hard for me to place: if you told me “resins and woods and oakmoss and orris” I wouldn’t be surprised, but it could be any subset of those. The drydown is really quite lovely: yearning, breathy, yet self-possessed. Classic floral chypres like this have enough moving parts to be intellectual as well as sensory delights. My closest comparison so far, I think, is Chamade, which is much more extreme (that huge aldehyde-and-galbanum opening! that ultra-yellow narcissus!) and therefore, I think, more my style; Ma Griffe is more “middling” or “balanced” though no less complex.

Ma Griffe. ...Good grief! what a name?! In the 1940s that must have been the height of campy, vampy seductress marketing. (Totally Random Side-thought: When Duran Duran gets around to expanding their line with Xerjoff, they should do a 'Hungry Like the Wolf' scent.) Alright, back to Ma Griffe, This opens up as a wonderfully sweet syrupy cocktail. It mostly reminds me of sherry and honey. It doesn't particularly remind me of any of the listed notes, ...but that doesn't surprise me. Back then, notes were intended to be blended, not recognized ...or even listed. Seriously, this is a deliriously rich perfume. The room is beginning to spin a little. So could this turn any woman (or man) into a taloned temptress? Probably, my nose and wrist are embroiled in a torrid affair even as I type this. Edit: Hmm, It seems that Ma Griffe more likely translates as 'My Signature' rather than 'My Claw(s)', ...how disappointing. I find my translation much more entertaining.

I have an early 1970s striped box extrait bottle, 7.5ml, ribbed bottle with gold cap. It comes with box and a fabric pouch. Best thing is the top citrus notes are still present. UK based. Message me if interested for £70 :)

It's a remarkable medium sillage powdery gardenia. I can understand it's a bit outdated, that's why I'd like to test the new version if I get the change, without the aldehydes.