No 88 Cologne

A rather unique masculine leaning fragrance. It opens up rather medicinal, almost tonic like (the heavy medicinal type not the fizzy/ effervescent type). It blends a mix of dried potpourri, which you used to find in a lot of mature homes in Britain, or a British garden in late summer/ early Autumn. There's an almost sour feel to the mid, on skin, with the base notes being very dry earthy/woody. I found this interesting, as it conjured images of a sorcerer or the Apothecary in Haworth Yorkshire. I get colours of dark purple, black, with an almost gothic church vibe, hinting almost at incense without actually smelling like it. It's a bold scent, about as far away from the bubblegum F'boy designers flying off the shelves in department stores, Boots, and the like. The rose is very masculine and pastel like, rather than a sweet rose. It helps carry the floral aspects, without falling into feminine territory. With that said, I believe anyone can wear any fragrances, these are just labels. It could well be a mysterious Wicca goddess that likes to wear bold challenging scents. This is something that probably only in summer would be a bit much. I expect Autumn is the best time for it, winter just as good, early-mid spring. This scent has lift and lingers in rooms. The silage is memorable, as the scent although perhaps a tad traditional in composition, does have a unique quality to it. This is definitely not a light and sparkly scent, it's darker, aromatic, and dry. 3-4 sprays is probably enough, maybe 6-8 if you are outside. No need to overspray it, people will know it is you. I have recently read that this was Ozzy Osbourne's signature scent, and that tracks. Gothic, Aromatic, Mature.

Despite No. 88's reputation as a "dark" scent (mostly a misconception due to its unique black bottle), No. 88 is a masterfully crafted floral-chypre with a fougere structure, that is both long-lasting and projects very well for the best part of the day. The cologne version in its current form comes across as quite powdery and packed full of geranium. The rose and woods play a supporting role here. In the more recent Eau de Parfum, the geranium and powdery notes are toned down and allow the rose and woods to come to the front much more. This is reminiscent of the vintage version and it results in a much smoother fragrance overall. Both versions have a touch of sweetness due to the frangipani. To me the cologne is a like, whereas the EdP is a love. From experience, the Cologne works well in warmer weather - the opening freshness from the bergamot and accompanying florals (geranium and rose) make for a welcome change to the traditional citrus-chypre warm weather scent. Conversely, the new Eau de Parfum works well in the cooler months due to the more pronounced woods, but either can be worn so long as they are used in sensible quantities. All in all, a unique floral-chypre fougere, centred around rose, with a classy character that is totally unisex.

Review for the EDP version: Oh my aunt is giddy! This stuff is divine, or satanic, depending on your persuasion. Not since the opening of Potion DSQUARED2 have I been bowled over by such a heady brew. You're throttled by bergamot, cinnamon smelling cassia, black locust (honeyed cherry vanilla bourbon), and what must be the strongest frangipani ever. It's like a big cherry vanilla cola that keeps on fizzing. Then there's the rose, THAT rose. So strong, so unbelievably strong, so soapy strong. This all sits on your skin pulsing away for about 3 hours before slowly melting into a deep deep floral that's held together by the gentlest and warmest of sandalwoods. At this stage the only thing I can think of that compares is Swiss Arabian Janet El Firdaus, another nuclear floral bomb. Longevity is very good. Even at 12 hours it's still there as a light skin scent. Strong sillage with just a light dusting of the neck. I've no idea what the EDT version is like but I'm sure it can't be as powerful as this. Czech & Speake No88 EDP - you have to smell it to believe it.

Very english, very unique, very sophisticated. I personally don’t get the “gothic” association. It smells like the most luxurious soap money could buy, almost dusty/chalky in the late drydown. A faint similarity to floris 89, but with a very niche/exotic twist. you will stand out from the masses with this one, no doubt. It is very rosy and very soapy, quite a bit romantic, certainly not a macho powerhouse scent although it is strong. I find it to he very wearable, in all its uniqueness, it remains inoffensive and pleasant. No specific season, daytime or age range, just dont pair it with jeans sneakers and a tshirt. Nothing fresh and sporty about this one. Btw: the comparison with eucris is beyond me. These two are night and day to me, i own and love both and i’d say they have absolutely nothing in common except for an edgy black bottle.

I don't understand how there's such a split opinion over this fragrance, it's rather straightforward and truly incredible. The rose, sandalwood, and cassia are the most significant notes that stay with you until it ends...which was 19 hours later on my skin!! I don't get anything dark about this, or vampiric. There's a similarity to Geo F. Trumper's Eucris because of the sandalwood and blackcurrant in that.