No 88 Cologne

A rather unique masculine leaning fragrance. It opens up rather medicinal, almost tonic like (the heavy medicinal type not the fizzy/ effervescent type). It blends a mix of dried potpourri, which you used to find in a lot of mature homes in Britain, or a British garden in late summer/ early Autumn. There's an almost sour feel to the mid, on skin, with the base notes being very dry earthy/woody. I found this interesting, as it conjured images of a sorcerer or the Apothecary in Haworth Yorkshire. I get colours of dark purple, black, with an almost gothic church vibe, hinting almost at incense without actually smelling like it. It's a bold scent, about as far away from the bubblegum F'boy designers flying off the shelves in department stores, Boots, and the like. The rose is very masculine and pastel like, rather than a sweet rose. It helps carry the floral aspects, without falling into feminine territory. With that said, I believe anyone can wear any fragrances, these are just labels. It could well be a mysterious Wicca goddess that likes to wear bold challenging scents. This is something that probably only in summer would be a bit much. I expect Autumn is the best time for it, winter just as good, early-mid spring. This scent has lift and lingers in rooms. The silage is memorable, as the scent although perhaps a tad traditional in composition, does have a unique quality to it. This is definitely not a light and sparkly scent, it's darker, aromatic, and dry. 3-4 sprays is probably enough, maybe 6-8 if you are outside. No need to overspray it, people will know it is you. I have recently read that this was Ozzy Osbourne's signature scent, and that tracks. Gothic, Aromatic, Mature.

Despite No. 88's reputation as a "dark" scent (mostly a misconception due to its unique black bottle), No. 88 is a masterfully crafted floral-chypre with a fougere structure, that is both long-lasting and projects very well for the best part of the day. The cologne version in its current form comes across as quite powdery and packed full of geranium. The rose and woods play a supporting role here. In the more recent Eau de Parfum, the geranium and powdery notes are toned down and allow the rose and woods to come to the front much more. This is reminiscent of the vintage version and it results in a much smoother fragrance overall. Both versions have a touch of sweetness due to the frangipani. To me the cologne is a like, whereas the EdP is a love. From experience, the Cologne works well in warmer weather - the opening freshness from the bergamot and accompanying florals (geranium and rose) make for a welcome change to the traditional citrus-chypre warm weather scent. Conversely, the new Eau de Parfum works well in the cooler months due to the more pronounced woods, but either can be worn so long as they are used in sensible quantities. All in all, a unique floral-chypre fougere, centred around rose, with a classy character that is totally unisex.

Review for the EDP version: Oh my aunt is giddy! This stuff is divine, or satanic, depending on your persuasion. Not since the opening of Potion DSQUARED2 have I been bowled over by such a heady brew. You're throttled by bergamot, cinnamon smelling cassia, black locust (honeyed cherry vanilla bourbon), and what must be the strongest frangipani ever. It's like a big cherry vanilla cola that keeps on fizzing. Then there's the rose, THAT rose. So strong, so unbelievably strong, so soapy strong. This all sits on your skin pulsing away for about 3 hours before slowly melting into a deep deep floral that's held together by the gentlest and warmest of sandalwoods. At this stage the only thing I can think of that compares is Swiss Arabian Janet El Firdaus, another nuclear floral bomb. Longevity is very good. Even at 12 hours it's still there as a light skin scent. Strong sillage with just a light dusting of the neck. I've no idea what the EDT version is like but I'm sure it can't be as powerful as this. Czech & Speake No88 EDP - you have to smell it to believe it.

Very english, very unique, very sophisticated. I personally don’t get the “gothic” association. It smells like the most luxurious soap money could buy, almost dusty/chalky in the late drydown. A faint similarity to floris 89, but with a very niche/exotic twist. you will stand out from the masses with this one, no doubt. It is very rosy and very soapy, quite a bit romantic, certainly not a macho powerhouse scent although it is strong. I find it to he very wearable, in all its uniqueness, it remains inoffensive and pleasant. No specific season, daytime or age range, just dont pair it with jeans sneakers and a tshirt. Nothing fresh and sporty about this one. Btw: the comparison with eucris is beyond me. These two are night and day to me, i own and love both and i’d say they have absolutely nothing in common except for an edgy black bottle.

I don't understand how there's such a split opinion over this fragrance, it's rather straightforward and truly incredible. The rose, sandalwood, and cassia are the most significant notes that stay with you until it ends...which was 19 hours later on my skin!! I don't get anything dark about this, or vampiric. There's a similarity to Geo F. Trumper's Eucris because of the sandalwood and blackcurrant in that.

I've bought this time and time again. It has changed over the years, but it's still brilliant. I don't understand why neroli is not in the list of ingredients, as partnered with the rose, this is a dominant note. Don't overspray, because you will overwhelm everyone around you. I don't get a sense of anything dark or gothic. Instead, it's quite light, and floral, and sparkly. A real work of beauty.

K1 you wrote exactly what i think of this frag. I can just add that it is a beautiful powdery rose for the man. Traditional but uncommon at the same time. Everything to be a classic, in the good way. Very high quality ingredients, it's obvious when you smell it. My quest for the masculine rose perfume is over.

It's one of the more idiosyncratic scents - some people it is stunning on, others have something in their skin chemistry (like my partner....) that makes it smell terrible. I've never met anyone that wasn't captivated by the smell straight from the bottle though. Definitely my #1 signature scent.

This brings back something very classy from the 80s. The brazen sweet creaminess of the frangipani, the green and nostalgic notes of cassis/currant leaves and geranium, with some classic powdery combo of rose and sandalwood. A cosy vintage scent, perfect to wear on a humid warm evening.

C&S's No.88 is a classy, masculine and old world scent but retains a modern aura; suitable for both formal and casual occasions. If you enjoy earthy, dark, floral accords then you're going to love No.88

Begins abrasive and misunderstood but ends romantic and triumphant. Elwood and Jake Blues from The Blues Brothers wear this.

Wow, this stuff is good. Really good. Yep. Trust me, just buy it!

Hmmm strange...looking at the notes and other reviews I am wondering if I have got a mis-labeled sample. This is quite similar to Cuba but rather more masculine and 'clean' feeling. Both No 88 and Cuba feel rather boozy and have this 'shimmering' quality, it's difficult to describe what I mean by that but both fragrances seem to be constantly moving, one note nudging another one out, only for it to pop back a few minutes later. They never seem to settle into one groove, and I find that quite exciting. At the opening I do get a boozy kind of bergamot, almost like Grand Marnier, with carnation peeping through. Combined with the booziness it actually feels more like a powdery clove. The rose is there but only just, I find the vetiver quite strong here but this fragrance retains it's warmth (I sometimes find vetiver a bit cold and clinical)The frangipani is barely discernable, for me all the florals except the carnation are so discreet that it merely softens the composition. It's definately a woody fragrance, feels rather more like rich mahogany or rosewood to me for most of it's duration, the sandalwood only coming through in the drydown. I rather like it, but would I spring for a full bottle? At those prices, the jury is out...

Although has no resemblance to Old Spice, it gives me Old Spice vibes. This is a very delightful old school fresh smell. Initially I was like "Ok, an overpriced barbershop", but I was mistaken, it really does grow on you very quickly. I have a 200ml shaker version that was purchased on a very very good deal. I don't think I'd give it full price £££, I'd probably grab a Ceed for a freshie at that price. That being said it perform a lot better than most Creeds. I have this in my bathroom as opposed to my frag collection room, as I do love splashing it on after a wet shave or straight out of the shower, so for those purpose it is just great. I find it very difficult to describe, apart from it just gives a slight different take on old school barbershop. I would not say it has a modern twist to it, just simply a slight twist to traditional BS smells. I just splashed it on now and my Mrs walked in and said "Have you just sprayed that new No.88 or was that a Creed?" I asked "why" she said "I really like it"

This stuff is weird. It opens with a soapy rose which seems almost candied, but like Middle Eastern or East Asian candies that taste unmistakeably "different" from western candy. (I can understand why people say it's a masculine rose, though.) Then within a few minutes comes a deep, sharp woodiness, which feels heavy, dirty and chemical when combined with the remaining rose. It starts to become a big mess where I'm not sure I can pick out anything in particular. There's something in there similar to the old-rubber-band accord that I get from my newer Heritage decant. It just feels tacky for some reason...I think the piercing rose stays just intense enough to annoy me with its sharp pointiness. By the end, a little arid wood (cedar?) comes into the picture to cut some of the sweetness, and you're finally left with a vague incenceyness. I guess I just don't understand what the perfumer was going for, though I won't deny the quality of the ingredients. To me, it's mostly just a vase of wilting flowers.

Another juice that makes me question my belief that I don't like sweet fragrances. Revisiting it, yes, it's woody and, yes, it's aromatic, but it is also decidedly sweet, probably as a result of rose and the other florals and sandalwood that can be, let's face it, sweet in and of itself. This was another go-to favourite in the late 80s and early 90s, though I find I have grown away from it a little and now tend to use it less frequently. Despite the fresh elements in there - bergamot and vetiver- I've always preferred it in cooler weather or at night during the summer because otherwise it can become too overpowering. Seems a bit odd to have strong feelings about sillage or longevity because it really does depend on which dilution you're wearing in my experience. It references perfume-making traditions from way before 20th-century notions of gender were drilled into our brains, so forget all that "for men" nonsense: anyone can wear it if it suits.

Fresh, "manly" rose, with a good amount of geranium. It has depth thanks to the earthy vetiver, and this is noticeable even in the mid. Also, at this stage, I detect a bit of "sour skank" à la 80's. Not sure if it's the combination of elements, or something I cannot detect. It's not too noticeable, and doesn't ruin the composition imo, but some might not like it. Dry down is my favourite part. Creamy sandalwood, earthy vetiver and a bit of freshness from the geranium and rose. I tried three from the house so far(vetiver vert and neroli being the two others), and 88 is the only one I found to be OK/good. Good longevity for an EDC(6+ hours) Projection is also good for up to one hour(+/-) It's one of those scents which smells MUCH better if smelled on someone else/in the air.

Smelling this I kind of regret I am not a man- it is a great fragrance, but way too masculine to pull of as a unisex fragrance. A really great combo of rose, geranium and vetyver (I live vetyver). Hm, a possible present for my dad for Christmas this year? A type of scent that would be appropriate for both every day and an evening. Woody, aromatic, elegant, I would say very British, but it also touches something slightly more exotic that the streets of London City thanks to frangipani. A ray of sunshine on a busy street. It also changes quite a lot on the skin. It starts of quite calm, but from time to time it gets revived by the bright citrus accords. I did not detected them at first, but they definitely stay quietly in the background and revive the scent from there.

This is supposed to be a "man's" scent, but I find it completely unisex. It starts out very citrusy, presumably the bergamot, but fairly quickly changes to a rose scent boosted by citrus and geranium. I really didn't detect much of the woody notes that are supposed to be there, but the rose-geranium scent lasts all day, and is strong enough to mask them. C&S 88 is a pleasant, aromatic scent with enough complexity to be interesting, and strong enough to get me through a day at work and night out afterwards. It starts and ends like a walk through a highly scented herb garden, with a rose garden in the middle.

For my nose this is the most soapy perfume that I ever smelled! I tried to separate notes, but it was difficult for me – every time I sniffed my wrist I smelled just soap, soap and soap... It’s said perfumes evoke memories from childhood - I guess, I had most of soap bars smelling like this (I collected soap bars when I was a kid). Anyway, there is geranium mixed with woody dry base, the vetiver is very noticeable, that I like a lot. No.88 is totally unisex for me, pleasant and clean. I would like to smell it on someone else, just for curiosity to learn if I smell something else than soap.