Germaine

@Mr Cornelis I had the same doubt... In fact the ingredients are fougere but it smells like a chypre. And Fragrantica doesn't have a category called chypre fougere...

Sooooo... I was aware of Miguel because between us we've graced more fragrantica pages than a Luckyscent ad!! But never really properly put a face or character to the articles I'd read here, until I saw more of Miguel on Instagram. This coincided with the release of his modest selection of fragrances, so seeing behind the scenes somewhat, him sat at his perfume organ etc... I was highly anticipating what he could some up with. Germaine is the first one I tried and baring in mind that I only dabbed once then spritzed some on my arm a second time and don't tend to like to post a review until I can 'wear' something properly. Having said all that I think the conclusion with Germaine is that I really like it...but with caveats of course. The opening to me at least is a very peppery, smoky, dry vetiver and despite being a base note in my experience can oddly manifest in the opening in this way. I think it gives an unusual impression but not entirely misleading because this fragrance is very woody and grounded in dry, earthiness. Having said that the next phase comes on within a matter of seconds and it's an incredible, blossoming, violet note/accord which is almost visual in it's progression, by that I mean you can figuratively 'see' it coming. Its a little powder purple, button mushroom, popping it's way out of the earthy undergrowth, which by now is even tinged with a kind of leathery aspect. This opens out into a poof of powdery and sweet violet, I mean it's very much the penhaligon's violetta variety, transporting me to my youth and chomping on Parma violet sweets. Then as it reaches a crescendo in the first fifteen minutes or so, beginning to play peekaboo with a much more woody, dry and distinctly 'Indy' perfume flavour of parched, Ionone heavy, floral, woods. This 'Indy' smell I describe is at the heart of this fragrance and it's a mulched, paper sort of stale, woodiness (perhaps the herbal sage?). It reminds me of primary school and that rough, sugar/craft paper that you used to get, or a roughly pulped, jotter or exercise book cover. To be perfectly honest this is my least favourite aspect of this fragrance but are we due for another twist in the tale? Yes!! It comes in the form of the vetiver and leathery note/accord reemerging and giving more heft and making it much more enjoyable for me. I actually think that Germaine is a really good example of light and shade and balancing apposing aroma auras (if you like?) to make something cohesive and something I enjoy. A good start for me with Miguel's stuff but not something I'd rush to add to my collection.

Starts off clean and green with a strong basil note reminiscent of Hermes Concentre d’Orange Vert. About 30 minutes in I get alot of the tang of vetiver and citrus glowing chartreuse and emerging from the aromatic green base. This begins the heart phase which is where it really does smell like an abstract green chypre. The leather soon shows up like the missing puzzle piece, the dry to balance the juicy. This particular leather is abstract, green and feels of another era. It has nothing to do with the kind of plush, expensive handbag leather you sense in alot of recent fragrances. Overall I think fans of vintage fragrances would appreciate the feel and style of Germaine and also its complexity and development. The late drydown is calm and clean like an old fashioned soap.

Inspired by Germaine Cellier, one of the first prominent female perfumers in the industry, Miguel Matos brings us a tribute to Cellier’s 1953 creation for Balmain, Jolie Madame. A tall order for even the most seasoned perfumer, taking on Germaine Cellier is especially gutsy for a relatively new, self taught perfumer. I went into trying this fragrance feeling rather hopeful but at the same time, a bit apprehensive. We are talking about the lady who brought us Bandit and Fracas. It’s like someone who just took up singing taking on Pavarotti. Matos has a knack for making me nervous about trying his creations, I actually had a racing heart when I first sprayed Jungle Jezebel. I find this quality exciting and a rare gift, because it means you’re either doing something interesting or have an innate quality that creates natural intrigue. Or both. Either way, it’s a win. Being a HUGE Cellier fan myself (Bandit is in my top 10 fragrances of all time) I’m probably more nervous than most preparing to try Germaine, but I go ahead and give myself a douse from the splash vial. And, immediately, I am greeted by a remarkable an unmistakable nod to Jolie Madame. How does a relatively new perfumer do this? This boggles my mind because, although I know very little about making perfume, I know enough to know how difficult this actually is. If you have ever purchased perfume materials thinking how easy it would be to make something that you have in mind, you quickly learn that it isn’t so easy lol. So, I’m even more impressed by the clear reflection of Jolie Madame I get upon the very first whiff. It’s more herbal and less of a grand floral, but there is no mistaking the similarities. As it transitions from opening to dry down, there is a brief period of rockiness, not the seamless ride of a Balmain, but who would expect that from an indie perfume? Not me. For a moment, I thought Germaine was losing me, but it didn’t, it was almost like a distraction that allowed my mind to clear the expectations of “Jolie Madame” to make way for the transition to Germaine, which is like a less floral, more herbal, and more unisex version of Cellier’s creation. The dry down is much less powdery floral, more earthy, and feels more modern and more masculine. Germaine doesn’t feel like Balmain, so don’t expect it to, but the Jolie Madame reflection is undeniable. I wore them side by side for a day for comparison (I have an older bottle with the gray/blue bow) and was really impressed by the similarities. The far dry down takes a more earthy and unisex turn, with vetiver becoming prominent. At this point it feels most different from Jolie Madame and more indie but at the same time, the nod to Jolie Madame never leaves. I believe Germaine will please Cellier fans, and also those who may have never smelled any of her creations but who enjoy earthy and aromatic green florals or the chypre style. I’m really impressed by the way Miguel channeled Jolie Madame in Germaine, he pleased a huge fan of Cellier and in the process created a true fan of this relatively new indie perfumer’s work. A wonderful tribute, and to be honest, I think I actually prefer this one to Jolie Madame. It’s more approachable and less stuffy.

I will update this review, as I am keeping notes on this until the fragrance actually disappears. Opening: WOW! Holy Basil! This brings new meaning to the term "fresh spicy". Opening 10/10 I smell the note of violet. This is a very full bodied fragrance. The spices opened up my lungs. Seriously! I was relatively tired when I sprayed this, but it's like my body just woke up out of a slumber. I've never smelled a fragrance like this before. Absolutely invigorating. 2 hours in: Projection still strong. Opening is still present which I like, although the basil is toned down. Still spicy as heck. The lavender is fresh. 3 hours in: Projection is moderate to medium. I'm getting a classic fougere with a fresh spicy vibe. I wouldn't have considered this a fougere at the 2 hour mark, but this is reminding me of an 80's powerhouse. There isn't anything sour. The fragrance still smells fresh which is important to me. I haven't smelled any dominant vetiver yet. 6 hours in: I just came back from the gym. I quite enjoy that this fragrance is emanating off my skin. I have to take a shower, but no staleness, no ugly drydown. So far at 6 hours, it has the similar fresh spicy opening, and is still super potent. Well, I have to take a shower now. This fragrance is not for the faint of heart. Only for true frag-heads IMO. 8 hours in: This stuff hasn't died down at all. Sillage: moderate to high overall Longevity: Forever (I'm guesstamating) Overall, a fresh spicy fougere/chypre linear fragrance that performs very well. Mr. Miami Cuddles