A Glória da Manhã

A Glória da Manhã (The Glory of the Morning, in Portuguese) was launched in 2016 and has also been reformulated. Only the 2017 releases (Ofanins, Ícarus and the brand new Heroin) did not have to be reformulated since they were conceived within the new style of creation of the perfumer Sanderson Santana. But this review brings the bitter taste of criticism. Many people think that getting a negative review is always much worse than doing it. Not always! This only works for those who have no commitment to those involved in the process. In my case, to criticize is always difficult, especially when it comes to a Brazilian creation. But the work of an appraiser/reviewer can not (and should not) be personal, but unbiased. And criticism should not choose name, brand or relationship, just the product itself. That said, before even testing the fragrance, this perfume would already because for criticism because of its name. Often, independent perfumers lose the bias of the conceptual pattern when naming their creations. And this is a fine example. After perfumes with short names and easy memorization such as Graal and Vanille Noir, A Glória da Manhã is almost a slogan for a fragrance that aims to portray the dawn. My first question was: why not Dawn or Daylight since foreign terms are being used? I went towards the fragrance that has notes of Sicilian lemon, French lavender, and bergamot, opening the way to an aromatic heart of rosemary, mint, neroli, and geranium, on a base of musk, vetiver, oakmoss and tonka beans. Then it's time for the skin tests. I confess that it was one of the fragrances that gave me the most expectations because its concept made me imagine a solar, bright and cheerful fragrance with a beautiful citric content and a great highlight for the neroli. I say this because I know the perfumer's potential for using such an ingredient. However, by applying on the skin, the mixture between the sour lemon and the floral-camphorated lavender resulted in a smell that immediately reminded me of a cleanser product, which is not the smell that I want to exude. A Glória da Manhã does not convince by its output, quite the contrary, it frightens. If you have the patience to wait for the initial phase to pass, you will find a more balanced scent, with nuances of neroli and a silky base of musk and tonka beans. Even so, it disappointed me and falls short of other fragrances, in my opinion. In fact, in terms of reformulation, this is the first case in which I prefer the original version made by Sapientiae. If my opinion were worth somehow, I would say: "try again and put that neroli that you use so well". Finally, it is worth remembering that this is my analysis and that perfumes should be tested on the skin and each skin reacts in a way. What works for me may not please you and vice versa.

After many months in a state of hibernation, for some reasons that led me to do so, I reserve the right to unfreeze and write about something that still touches me, moves me and makes me breathe in parallel with other worlds that dialogue with me, the world of perfumery. Of the Casa Sapientiae Niche, of its niches, I had not yet had any contact. Of the great perfumer Sanderson Santana, I already knew Royals Parfum, only. Glória da Manhã turns out to be a perfume which, at least in me, awakened a feeling of Déjà vu, in a moment that I cannot define very well, but it is placed between my childhood and adolescence, a period of glory which my family and I lived that (unforgettable) moment in the most intense way possible. I like the tropical fruits at the beginning, Mango has a fresh skin and Rosemary is still in serene land; a combination of simple aromas that exhale in the form of a “psychological reaction of the transmission of ideas” previously seen. After 2 hours, some floral nuances emerge, the fruity notes join, and the fragrance assumes a posture of innocence and affection on the face in spring days. The Mint note is prominent and dominates this phase, its greenish touch reverberates against the flowers and an aspect of luxury soap, fine and in the style of the giants Nesti Dante, remains, remains and remains. So far, people ask what perfume it is, praise it and even take paper and pencil to write it down. What is nice about A Glória da Manhã, I must say is the deep sensation of the perfumation that it provides, it allows happiness and becomes an approximate cloud of affection and tenderness in the form of a fragrance. In the end, he says goodbye slightly woody and with the austere footprint of Palo Santo, something a bit resinous, oily and decisive, compared to Vetiver in a simple way and smooth Musk; you can still see the footprint of a tasty soap, only a little more closed, as if the skin had already dried and the aroma of the soap was starting to assume its true form in contact with the skin. I wouldn't see this fragrance with any other name than A Glória da Manhã! Fixation and projection more than satisfactory, I am happy to have known him.